Question about painting side scoops and hood scoop
Has anyone out there ever painted their own side scoops or hood scoop with the auto paint that comes in a spray can? I have ordered my parts unpainted and would like to try this myself, I have a windveil blue mustang color code p3. I found where I can order the primer, paint and clear coat that comes in spray cans. If anyone out there can give me some tips on how to do this that would be great Thanks.
__________________
2006 4.0 Mustang..... working on upgrades.... only takes money
In General you can not get enough paint out of a spray can to look like the Factory finish , Even with several coats , it just isnt the same , It will look ok but not have the depth you will get having it sprayed at a body shop , If you do try this Please post up the results as I am sure other will be interested also ,,
Just make sure you do it in a garage or inside somewhere so you don't get dust in the paint. Have some good 600-1000 grit sandpaper on hand for a good wet sand. Once the paint is fully set take it out and compare it to your car. If you are happy with the color match, clear it up and let that set. 3 Coats of clear is a lot of depth but you should be fine with 2.
__________________
2008 Dark Candy Red V6 Coupe, 18" SSE Wheels w/ Falken shoes,8" Shorty Antenna, SPEC Stage 1, Airraid CAI, 8.8 w/ 3.31, dual Vortech turbo exhaust, LED Projector Headlights, BBK shorty headers, SEIBON Carbon Fiber heat extractor hood, Sparco Hood Pins, Kenwood 7" touch screen nav/dvd, dos 8" rockford fosgate punch, SS window louvres, Midwest plenum cover, LED taillights, 93 race tune from bamachips, Personalized license plate "GOFASTR" (adds about 15 horses for the license plate) 220hp/232torq
for the most part, i have to agree with shoe. the color will be right but the depth wont be there. the rattle can paint is great for things like sway bars or engine bay parts but for body parts its not gonna look factory quality. ive got hvlp guns and i used to paint bike tanks and stuff so i really wanted to paint my scoop, but for me to buy the prep primer,base, additives, clear coat and thinners to shoot it right in my red was gonna cost a bunch more than the body shop could shoot it for. they also baked it and wheeled it, and it looks as perfect as the hood. now with that said, there has been a bunch of guys that had the rattle can paint mixed and shot louvers and stuff. you might try some searches on here, i havent seen any recent posts. i still want louves, but i`ll have them shot at the same body shop when i get them. they can give a good price cause they mix the paint themselves, and are set up to do it right. what parts did you order?
__________________
goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..
05 V6 auto, torch red, basic,:cool: a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
I have used DupliColor on mirrors, spoilers, side window covers, etc. Use their primer and clear coat only. Don't mix brands if you don't have to. You get the depth by using clear coat polishing compound after the clear coat has dried for about two weeks in warm weather and three in cold. If you put three clear coats on you can use 1500 grit or higher to sand out any orange peel. Then polish again with clear coat polishing compound. Be careful not to sand through the clear coat. If you take time to do it right, you cant see the difference between that and the factory paint. One other thing you will need to do is use something like Bull Dog on any of the plastic or vinyl parts to make the paint stick, It will come off eventually if you don't. I use Mguires waxes and compounds when I do this. Most of the pros use 3M products but they are harder to find and they come in large bottles that cost about $18.00 each. Give it a try. The worst that can happen is that you will have to strip it off and have it done.
for the most part, i have to agree with shoe. the color will be right but the depth wont be there. the rattle can paint is great for things like sway bars or engine bay parts but for body parts its not gonna look factory quality. ive got hvlp guns and i used to paint bike tanks and stuff so i really wanted to paint my scoop, but for me to buy the prep primer,base, additives, clear coat and thinners to shoot it right in my red was gonna cost a bunch more than the body shop could shoot it for. they also baked it and wheeled it, and it looks as perfect as the hood. now with that said, there has been a bunch of guys that had the rattle can paint mixed and shot louvers and stuff. you might try some searches on here, i havent seen any recent posts. i still want louves, but i`ll have them shot at the same body shop when i get them. they can give a good price cause they mix the paint themselves, and are set up to do it right. what parts did you order?
If the parts you are getting are urethane and not fiberglass your spray can method will fundamentally not work. From my professional painter of my quarter panel and side scoops he says that urethane requires a special coating before you put on the primer then paint. It you don't after about two years it will start peeling and you will have to do it all again. The nozzle on a spray can does not spray as fine a mist as a low pressure high volume paint gun and will not look as good as your original paint. The work is done by robots in the factory. It is a little more difficult if you have metallic colors to get a exact match if your car has spent any significant time in the sun.
__________________
Current vehicles
2005 Mustang V6 coupe mineral grey
2001 Corvette Z06 black
1968 Corvette convertible metallic blue
1964 Corvette Stingray convertible red
1985 BMW K100 m/c black
Lots of good info here thanks guys ... Is it better to sand by hand or would using an electric sander be cool? Also oldpanzer, I was thinking about the same thing i did read where there is some speacial kind of solution for urethane to prevent fisheye... also I found and attachment for a few bucks that goes on to a spray can to conver it to a spray gun. it says it makes it a finer and wider spray...(we'll see) The parts should be here by friday I think I will try it on one of my side scoops or window louvers and see how it goes. i will post pictures of before, during and after if it doesn't work good enough for me on the one piece I will just sand it back down and take it to a pro... I think its just one of those things thats more satisfying if I can say all my mods were done myself... Im also really into graphic arts so this kinda thing really intrest me. i do know that its way different painting a car part than on a canvas for sure... The key is definately making sure it turns out right... I am very picky when it comes to stuff like that, so if its not to my liking I will just sand it all off and start over... I'm really looking forward to this project... I will keep updating this thread
__________________
2006 4.0 Mustang..... working on upgrades.... only takes money
they make a soft rubber sanding block, esp great when wet sanding in between coats. works great on the flatter areas, and hand sand the curves. the parts are small i would hand sand it all. if you use a power sander and get a flat spot on a curve, your into body work.
__________________
goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..
05 V6 auto, torch red, basic,:cool: a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
this is a really good sanding block. i think i got it from a auto paint supply store in detroit years ago. its not too soft, but it flexes some for slight curves. sorry the pics arent too good
__________________
goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..
05 V6 auto, torch red, basic,:cool: a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
Has anyone out there ever painted their own side scoops or hood scoop with the auto paint that comes in a spray can? I have ordered my parts unpainted and would like to try this myself, I have a windveil blue mustang color code p3. I found where I can order the primer, paint and clear coat that comes in spray cans. If anyone out there can give me some tips on how to do this that would be great Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoe48
In General you can not get enough paint out of a spray can to look like the Factory finish , Even with several coats , it just isnt the same , It will look ok but not have the depth you will get having it sprayed at a body shop , If you do try this Please post up the results as I am sure other will be interested also ,,
I must agree with Shoe on this one. I have a 2007 Windveil Blue Convertible.
__________________
Alan Ralston
Assistant Manager of a Body Shop
Main Ride: 2008 Base Coupe, Pony Package, Ebony Solid C/C EXT, Charcoal Black Leather INT, 4.0L V6, 5R55S A/T. Summer Pleasure: 2007 Base Convertible, Windveil Blue EXT, Black Vinyl Top, Satin Black Vinyl Racing Stripes, Medium Dove Cloth INT, 4.0L V6, 5R55S A/T.
they make a soft rubber sanding block, esp great when wet sanding in between coats. works great on the flatter areas, and hand sand the curves. the parts are small i would hand sand it all. if you use a power sander and get a flat spot on a curve, your into body work.
ok thats great I was leaning towards one of the sanding blocks thanks! also had a question on the sanding between coats of paint. How long should I let it dry before sanding for the second or third coat
__________________
2006 4.0 Mustang..... working on upgrades.... only takes money
go by the instructions on the product you are using. i still think you should get a price for a pro to shoot it. take pride in the install. but i`m a real diy kinda guy too so i know what your saying.
__________________
goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..
05 V6 auto, torch red, basic,:cool: a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
you can rattle can urethane SEM makes great stuff for it I prepped and painted my cervini front spoiler with it. I use SEM soap but I've read you can use TIDE
i order my SEM paints from Handsontools.com. good price fast shipping