If you buy any bolts other than from an auto parts supplier, make sure they are at least Grade 5. They will have three radial lines on the head in a daisy pattern. These things carry emense loads, compression, tension, and shear.
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Bone Stock '07 GT 4.6, Redfire w/ parchment leather, Automatic.
If it looks right, it is right, and I decide if it looks right. Paraphrasing Sir Sydney Camm (of Hawker aircraft IIRC)
The stock hardware is grade 8, which is the automotive standard for hardware. Contrary to popular belief, an 8.8 marking on the head of the bolt does not mean that it is an 8.8 grade bolt. The hash markings on the head of the bolt indicate its grade.
Grade 5 bolts have three lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Grade 8 bolts have six lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Bolts with an 8.8 marked on the head are metric class 8.8 which is comparable to a grade 5 SAE bolt.
I used the same bolts as amustangrocks and I've had mine on for a few months with no issues. I occasionally check to see if they are tight and they are still good. Did you not get endlinks and brackets with your takeoff?
The stock hardware is grade 8, which is the automotive standard for hardware. Contrary to popular belief, an 8.8 marking on the head of the bolt does not mean that it is an 8.8 grade bolt. The hash markings on the head of the bolt indicate its grade.
Grade 5 bolts have three lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Grade 8 bolts have six lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Bolts with an 8.8 marked on the head are metric class 8.8 which is comparable to a grade 5 SAE bolt.
I stand corrected. Although grade 5 is the most common grade for automotive bolts, grade 8 is used in automotive suspension applications, which would include the sway bar, of course.
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Bone Stock '07 GT 4.6, Redfire w/ parchment leather, Automatic.
If it looks right, it is right, and I decide if it looks right. Paraphrasing Sir Sydney Camm (of Hawker aircraft IIRC)
Using the proper grade bolt is not just for strength. The grade 8 bolts are more resistant to rust and corrosion from winter road salt, and an effect called galvanic corrosion. That is when two even slightly dissimilar metals will set up a condition where one electrically eats away the other one. The more dissimilar, the faster lunch is over.
BUT, don't go any higher in grade. The really high grade bolts are much more brittle and can't take the multi-directional forces in a suspension assy.
Cheap bolts will hold innitially but eventually, well, can you say BOOIINNNGGG. Just because they hold for a few months doen't disprove a hundred years of engineering standards and practices.
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Bone Stock '07 GT 4.6, Redfire w/ parchment leather, Automatic.
If it looks right, it is right, and I decide if it looks right. Paraphrasing Sir Sydney Camm (of Hawker aircraft IIRC)
The stock hardware is grade 8, which is the automotive standard for hardware. Contrary to popular belief, an 8.8 marking on the head of the bolt does not mean that it is an 8.8 grade bolt. The hash markings on the head of the bolt indicate its grade.
Grade 5 bolts have three lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Grade 8 bolts have six lines pointing outward from the center, marked on the head of the bolt. Bolts with an 8.8 marked on the head are metric class 8.8 which is comparable to a grade 5 SAE bolt.
8.8 does in fact indicate the grade, just the metric grade. So yeah, 8.8 wouldn't be equal to a grade 8 US bolt, but it is still a "grade."
If you check under the car, Ford uses all metric bolt fasteners.
For metric, 10.9 would be your best bet for suspension parts. I just couldn't find one big enough for the links to get 10.9, but I figured I could use 8.8 temporarily since most of the force would be on the bracket bolts.
So yeah, 8.8 wouldn't be equal to a grade 8 US bolt, but it is still a "grade."
Technically speaking, yes. However I do contest that that is mostly semantics.
And, I might add, metric 8.8 or SAE grade 5 bolts will do the trick for this application. I installed my sway bars with metric 8.8 bolts well over 2 years ago and have had 35,000 miles of trouble-free driving on them.
Grade 8 or metric 10.9's are recommended and are the industry standard, but that doesn't mean that the lower grade ones won't work just as well. Just that the standard grade bolts are 'safer,' if you will.
Just don't forget to use Nylock nuts and Lock-tite!
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
Haha, yes semantics indeed. And good to know those 8.8s worked out for you, now I won't have to worry about replacing my link bolts so soon. I figured it would be fine though.
But I seen the original poster didn't get links or brackets with the sways, that is truly sucky. Hope you got a good deal, man. I got both the front and back with brackets for 50 bucks on Craigslist.
Get the right bolts. 
Did you not get endlinks and brackets with your takeoff?
