What is the right supercharger?

awthoman · 08-16-2009

I have an 06 v6, as my daily driver, i am going to be getting a supercharger soon but dont know which to get, what i am mainly concerned about is reliability and wear on the car (because im a senior in high school and i want this car to last through college). I know that i could install an x charger easily on my own but i havnt been able to find anything about the ease of instalation for a vortec or a procharger(it would be nice to cut out instalation costs). Which super charger do you think would be best and how much boost would be good in the long run? thanks a lot

Ryan09 · 08-17-2009

personally ive heard nothin but good things about the x charger.... i think its a great one to go with. to be honest i dont know to much about the other ones you mentioned.

YouTube - StreetLegalTV.com - Installing an XCharger on our V6 Mustang

heres a link to a video that shows installation and what gains you can look to get

awthoman · 08-17-2009

i like that the xcharger uses 6-7 psi to get the same amount of horsepower that others get using 9 psi

**stlwagon** · 08-17-2009

The Vortech setup for the V6 is pretty nice.

JOSHSTANG · 08-18-2009

Which supercharger gives the most horsepower and torque?

SilverBullet07 · 08-18-2009

basically, ive heard of 2 really great SC setups for the v6. one is X charger and itll run you about 4000 and it comes with a tuner and all the things necessary to install yourself. then there is the vortech, which is about 4500 and inlcudes the same stuff. the x charger is a roots style, the vortech is acentrifugal supercharger.

i beleive the X charger runs on 6-7 psi and puts out about 280RWHP/285RWTQ on a stock motor, whereas the vortech runs about 9 psi and has about 290RWHP/295RWTQ on the standard setup, and about 10PSI for 330 RWHP/ 340RWTQ. the x charger also has optional smaller pulleys for higher boost ( 8 or 9 psi) so you could be puttin down about 315/320

Ramaj · 08-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverBullet07

basically, ive heard of 2 really great SC setups for the v6. one is X charger and itll run you about 4000 and it comes with a tuner and all the things necessary to install yourself. then there is the vortech, which is about 4500 and inlcudes the same stuff. the x charger is a roots style, the vortech is acentrifugal supercharger.

i beleive the X charger runs on 6-7 psi and puts out about 280RWHP/285RWTQ on a stock motor, whereas the vortech runs about 9 psi and has about 290RWHP/295RWTQ on the standard setup, and about 10PSI for 330 RWHP/ 340RWTQ. the x charger also has optional smaller pulleys for higher boost ( 8 or 9 psi) so you could be puttin down about 315/320

are you talking about rwhp as run on a dyno or at the motor?

because in the video posted above they say stock they run 185 horsepower on dyno(210 is the posted factory horsepower so 25 lost in drivetrain presumably). They then install the x-charger and say it is running 340+ horsepower at 7-8lbs of boost and will beat a GT (at the part where they install just before the bamachips tune), then they run around 271 horsepower on dyno with the x-charger installed and say it's an over 100 horsepower increase (which it's really only 86 horsepower). now if it was truly running 340 horsepower and only hit 271 to the wheels that's about 70 horsepower lost between motor and wheels almost triple the factory loss and almost as much horsepower as it added when run on the dyno.

I have no idea where I'm going with all that but yeah. Either the video contradicts itself, or they are stating potential and then showing what they got. who knows, however the GT has like 310 horsepower stated by ford correct? so what is a GT's horsepower to the wheels stock on a dyno read out as?

SilverBullet07 · 08-18-2009

RWHP means rear wheel horsepower, as in the power making it to the wheels. so i was talking about the power making it through the drivetrain all the way to the wheels. theres usually about a 15% loss of hp through the drivetrain. so 340*.85 is 289 RWHP roughly, so they were pretty much spot on there.....

Ramaj · 08-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverBullet07

RWHP means rear wheel horsepower, as in the power making it to the wheels. so i was talking about the power making it through the drivetrain all the way to the wheels. theres usually about a 15% loss of hp through the drivetrain. so 340*.85 is 289 RWHP roughly, so they were pretty much spot on there.....

well they didn't say 340 on motor specifically unless I missed it which is why I asked.

Still interested in what a stock GT is putting down at the wheels for comparison.

I've thought about a s/c for mine in the future but wanting to see what's available, at what price, for what gains, does the motor need upgrades and how reliable.

not really to worried about the go out and beat GT argument as much as it it would be nice to have a little more power at times.

jldpc · 08-19-2009

Hi All:

2008 4.0L automatic Windveil Blue convertible. After installation of the X-Charger with the 2.8 pulley last month, and the Bama tune; BBK 70mm TB, here is what happened on a conservative Scottsdale, AZ shop's dyno - with 4.10 8.8 Trac Lok rear end, Magnaflow x-pipe exhaust, shorty headers, aluninum drive shaft, and complete Steeda suspension upgrade front and rear and Eichbach anti roll front and real, Tokioco shocks, and some German springs; upgraded plug wires and coil; and 20" rims and the newest Goodyear carbon & steel belts. Of course the HID's and the sequentials don't add anything to the performance; but the GT upgrade to the brakes slottled and drilled with Hawk pads makes for more certain stopping power. BTW The ambiant air temperature was over 102 F and the humidity was about 14% at approximately 1600 ft altitude. Normal for us; not great conditions for dyno testing. No strip action in these conditions - the summer in the desert.

So you ask about driveability; well aside from feeling every bump in the road - I actually like it - and the steering is very responsive, and the cornering is flat no matter what speed (tried up to 107 so far) the only problem is my dumb right foot. You see the travel on the stock gas pedal (Steeda plates of course) is very short = highly sensitive - so it is a bit scarry to step on the gas say from a red light in city traffic conditions because you are at 2000 rpm and 40 mph before you can say "oh sh__." Almost every time I have to let up and regain control by pushing on it ever so lightly.

And the gas mileage in the city dropped from 21+ to 18+ - or is that me. Actually, becasue of the previously mentioned start up sensitivity, and the ease with which it moves out in traffic, I find myself driving very much slower overall. It is kind of funny to drive slower overall and watch the ricers and F150's and Hummers and Jags race up and down the streets to catch the red lights. In my city staying under 40 is the way to catch mostyly green lights.

Another thing I have a Cervini hood with two ports low on the front (like the 67 and the 71 Mach 2) which cool the SC, and even in our 115-120 degree days here in Phoenix Scottsdale, the temp rarely gpoes over 150 F on a 174 Thermostat - measured by EVI Guages and my infrred heat gun reader.

And the car will not slow down in overdrive - low wind resistence, and very high vacuum 20+; it coasts and coasts and never seems to slow down. Sometimes it even speeds up (foot off of gas pedal)- like when in slight downhill situation or just flat road.

The original dyno at the same performance shop after only the BBK TB and a power tune was only 250 max torque at 2500 rpm, and 240 hp at 2500 rpm. These dropped off considerably at higher rpms. We were searching for low end city torque and were severly disappointed.

So the stock max torque was 190 at 5500 rpm, and the stock hp was about 190 at 5500 rpm.

The other day I was in a 2005 Mustang GT 5 speed with a new crate engine 4.6l 3v with the big Whipple intercooled -rated dynoed at 650 RWHP. Nearly broke my neck, and my friends could hear the Borla exhaust more than a mile away. A siren song for sure.

So there is no comparison between a Whippled 4.6L GT and a X-Charged 4.0L; but I also drove a stock 2006 Mustang GT 5-speed 4.6L - my 21 yo cute daughter is looking to follow in my footsteps - but I tell you it was pathetic; really pathetic.

I love my 6ixer - and I added an adjustable wing for those high speed days out on the rural highways in the desert and the mountains. I am afraid to gun it in the city for fear the local cops will take it away from me.

Good luck all. Larry in Scottsdale, AZ

Ramaj · 08-20-2009

While we are talking about it though, if you are putting 340 to the flywheel, don't you need to swap to the 8.8 rear end?

The stock 7.5? is supposed to only be safe up to 300 hp right?

so if you supercharge the V6 you need to swap the rear end or at least do some work correct?

Just trying to get a plan of action before I actually do anything to my car at all and make sure I know what needs to have what as a precursor so I don't break something that can be avoided (saves time and money).

jldpc · 08-20-2009

Patrick - my son's name - Be smart lad; start at the back and move forward with mods; including brakes. The devil is the temptation - SC even on 4.0L is a lot of muscle that needs alot of control and braking power. Start at the rear and work forward - SC is last mod not first. Best. Larry

Torch_Vert · 08-21-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jldpc

And the gas mileage in the city dropped from 21+ to 18+ - or is that me.

That's probably you. Every new X-charger owner goes through a period where their mileage drops a good bit just from having too much fun.

As to the original question, for a reliable install, it's hard to beat the "X". There's a reason why GM, Ford, Mercedes, etc have all used Eaton blowers (like the X's) on factory S/C cars.

SilverBullet07 · 08-21-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramaj

While we are talking about it though, if you are putting 340 to the flywheel, don't you need to swap to the 8.8 rear end?

The stock 7.5? is supposed to only be safe up to 300 hp right?

so if you supercharge the V6 you need to swap the rear end or at least do some work correct?

Just trying to get a plan of action before I actually do anything to my car at all and make sure I know what needs to have what as a precursor so I don't break something that can be avoided (saves time and money).

no, 340 is engine horsepower, 300 hp doesnt even make it to the rear end, so it wouldnt be necessary, it be a good idea, but not necessary

MrH08 · 08-21-2009

I REALLY hate to be the one to say this but if your looking for life of the car then maybe you want to stay stock. As a rule of thumb I've learned in time its the more i know about something, the more often i find something wrong or something goes wrong. I fully understand wanting a blower and in fact encourage it, but in doing so it just means there is that much more to break. If your car is still in warranty a supercharger will quickly end it. Not to mention the added power could cause you to have to much fun in front of the ladies and meet a telephone pole up close. Not to pull the stereotypical card on you, as i don't know you can can't say first hand if its true about you, but your fairly new to driving and you might be "immature" about driving and end up with more speeding tickets and other problems.

With all that said, I was looking at the Vortech myself when i had my v6 as it offered an intercooled version and the x-charger did not. I recently heared xcharger did/was going to release one, but i can not confirm as i no longer have a v6. Either which one you choose i'm sure you'll enjoy them.

Also you'll probably want to look into changing out your rear end to a GT take-off 8.8 rear end as I've heard the v6's has troubles with that much power.