Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon Can almost guarantee it's the vertical sway bar link. The nuts tend to loosen over time. |
I have a Steeda front bar (still sitting on my workbench) whose instructions say, "Be sure to use Loctite™ RED ... " on those nuts. I think that's a little extreme, and am planning to use BLUE with new "single-use" locknuts on assembly.
Previous installations, even with new locknuts have worked loose a bit. Of course, throwing the car around in an autocross may contribute to that.
The strut-to-body nuts seem to work loose, too.
I'd not been able to do the link nuts to proper torque. The manual says (approximately) "DO NOT LET THE THREADED LINK ROTATE AT ALL. USE THE IMMOBILIZER FEATURE (10mm hex on the end of the threaded part)." Well, no matter how deep or shallow your socket, on a regular torque wrench you can't torque and immobilize simultaneously.
http://bradbarnett.net/service_man/C...loded_View.pdf http://bradbarnett.net/service_man/C...ilizer_Bar.pdf
I found the answer was "crowfoot", an open-end wrench that extends from the torque wrench's drive lug, and lengthens the torque arm by about ¾ inch.
Now I just need to find out where the force point is in the shank of my old-but-good "clicker" Craftsman torque wrench, so I can figure out what smaller torque reading is equivalent to 85 lb/ft (148 for the strut nuts).