I finally got the car dynoed and was pleasantly surprised. I have a K&N CAI, a GT stock dual exhaust, have bypassed the throttle body coolant and am running an 87 octane performance tune from Bama Chips. The car made about 200 HP and 235 ft-lbf at the rear wheels. The air-to-fuel ratio looks good. I was really surprised that it did that well on 87 octane gas. The guy said the dyno tends to run about 5 to 8 HP high, but the fact that it was 87 degrees out and 80% humidity may cancel that out. I've attached the charts for HP, torque and air-to-fuel ratio. I was especially struck by the relatively flat torque curve throughout the whole range. I only wish I had it done a couple of years ago before I did any modifications.
Looks good. I'd love to get a base line on my new '07 (get to pick it up Monday). Unless you have some serious compression, a turbo, or SC, the 87 octane should give you the best results. Higher octanes when not needed typically rob performance.
Looks good. I'd love to get a base line on my new '07 (get to pick it up Monday). Unless you have some serious compression, a turbo, or SC, the 87 octane should give you the best results. Higher octanes when not needed typically rob performance.
That's true for the stock tune, but the tuners allow you to take advantage of the additional octane. If you use the higher octane tunes, they have more spark advance and make a little more horsepower. The price of gas is a little too high here for me to bother with that for now though.
I finally got the car dynoed and was pleasantly surprised. I have a K&N CAI, a GT stock dual exhaust, have bypassed the throttle body coolant and am running an 87 octane performance tune from Bama Chips. The car made about 200 HP and 235 ft-lbf at the rear wheels. The air-to-fuel ratio looks good. I was really surprised that it did that well on 87 octane gas. The guy said the dyno tends to run about 5 to 8 HP high, but the fact that it was 87 degrees out and 80% humidity may cancel that out. I've attached the charts for HP, torque and air-to-fuel ratio. I was especially struck by the relatively flat torque curve throughout the whole range. I only wish I had it done a couple of years ago before I did any modifications.
Very nice... I was unaware that the 4.0 had a TB coolant line.
That's true for the stock tune, but the tuners allow you to take advantage of the additional octane. If you use the higher octane tunes, they have more spark advance and make a little more horsepower. The price of gas is a little too high here for me to bother with that for now though.
Cool. I'm still learning a bit with the new CPU's and Dyno tuning (I'm a parts guy not a tech). My service manager was bitching about loosing power on the higher octane spec fuel he has to run in his 749R race bike. He lost a few RW HP running the higher octane fuel and spent a number of hours re-mapping his computer on the shop Dyno. Interesting stuff for someone like me who is used to messing with old carbs.
So if it's 200 HP at the rear wheels, what would the HP be at the crank?
It's hard to say. There are general rules of thumb that say 15% losses for a manual transmission car, but I don't know for sure. 15% would be about 235 HP at the crank.
That's pretty much the size of it. It must not be needed, since they got rid of it on the later years. Everyone is probably too young to remember the phrase "turnpike icing." Way long ago carburetors would freeze up on the highway and restrict the venturis. The car would stall, and the heat from the engine would defrost it and it would run again. That's probably one reason for the flapper valves they had on air cleaner snorkels that let in heated air in cold weather.
It's hard to say. There are general rules of thumb that say 15% losses for a manual transmission car, but I don't know for sure. 15% would be about 235 HP at the crank.
I thought it was 15% for an automatic, 12% for a manual...
Was this car an automatic or manual transmission? I'd like to see where mine stands hp/tq wise but dont have a couple hundred to drop on a dyno session... I also recall someone telling me on here that performance increases from modifications aren't exactly cumulative. In other words if you add an intake/tuner and net 20hp and then put on a muffler that adds 10, you haven't actually gained 30hp.
It didn't make any sense to me then, and it doesn't now...
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
I did about the same thing with my 05. Never got the chance to dyno it until after I put a Pro Charger on it. Now it's 340hp to crank, 288hp to rear wheel with 290lb torque. I thought I was happy before. I'm really happy now.
2005 Mustang V-6 Dyno Results 
I also recall someone telling me on here that performance increases from modifications aren't exactly cumulative. In other words if you add an intake/tuner and net 20hp and then put on a muffler that adds 10, you haven't actually gained 30hp.
