[Preston951]

Yeah, thats correct... $4. Of course, you still would need the tune. :yelpleased:


How, you ask? Well, as it turns out, all the fancy-schmancy Steeda economy CMDPs, FRPP CMDPs, and Saleen CMDPs that range from $100-$150 are is basically a set of stock CMCV plates that have had the butterflies removed and the center rod removed. They also make them new and shiny.

However, I've only seen the CRAZY $300 Steeda plates recently. I just couldn't justify $300 for around 10-13rwhp and 10-13tq. Despite them being something like .070 over (yeah, big whoop ), I figured there should be some other option.

After looking around, I discovered one could mod their stock CMCVs to become CMDPs! :rockwoot: & It literally cost me $4.

Of course... I was extra careful & picked up a set of used CMCV plates for $35. And 2 tubes of steel epoxy for $8. And a new rotary tool for $20. :hihi:

But despite all of that, one could literally perform this mod for $4. I'll attach a PDF I got from another Mustang Forum. 100% credit goes to the guy who did this write up! Incredibly easy, but an amazing guide nonetheless. I'll throw in some personal tips as well.

View attachment cmdpguide.pdf

TIPS:
You will need a drill and rotary tool for sure for this.

Use the drill with a [slightly larger than the rivet] bit to take out the rivets connecting the butterflies to the rod. They fall right out. 3 per butterfly.

The center rod is HARD to remove. Apparently some are easier to remove than others. If you can't pull yours out (I couldn't, even with all my weight), you have to get it out somehow. I chose to get a large drill bit & drill the center rod into easily removable sections. I didn't want to risk getting a jigsaw in there... :ahhhhh

Buy a QUICK-DRY steel epoxy. There are a bunch of brands. I ended up using FastSteel, but the PDF says "QuikSteel". I guess you could use something like JB Weld, but there's no point because one little tube of this cut&mix steel putty costs $4 & got the whole job done.

And that's basically it! Very easy, and I'm very happy with the result. Not installed yet, but they're going in with my CAI and tune... This December, hopefully. :bounce2:

 

[gtothep123]

So this would add about 10-15 hp :?: And this only works if you get a tune to go along with it :?:

 

[duckbubbles]

I'm glad you were able to get this project done. I hope you can feel the difference!

Frank

 

[shifter87]

Well I start leave this weekend and found out what I am doing on saturday morning.

 

[Preston951]

I'm glad you were able to get this project done. I hope you can feel the difference!

Frank

Me too! I'm sure it'll be a world of difference because I'll be basically going from stock to CAI & CMDPs at the same time. :kooky:

Well I start leave this weekend and found out what I am doing on saturday morning.

Hehe... :laughlitt
Very simple mod that'll save you a ton of money & get you some basically free power. Assuming you pick up 12rwhp from these... That's 3hp/$! Best gain for the S197! :grinroll:

 

[smoke4170]

Me too! I'm sure it'll be a world of difference because I'll be basically going from stock to CAI & CMDPs at the same time.

So, what CAI and tune did you decide on??

 

[Preston951]

So, what CAI and tune did you decide on??

Probably the JLT, and I'll probably go through Tillmans. I might pick up a used C&L racer for $150 then get the tune through Tillmans.

By the way... Boomtubes are my #1 choice right now. Have yours started rusting on the inside like Judi's?

 

[cvarley]

Sounds like a good plan. You might want to think about picking up an extra set of stock plates before doing this though, just in case something goes wrong, the car needs to be returned to stock, etc.

 

[SpookyStang]

Sounds like a good plan. You might want to think about picking up an extra set of stock plates before doing this though, just in case something goes wrong, the car needs to be returned to stock, etc.

He already did purchase some stock ones.

Of course... I was extra careful & picked up a set of used CMCV plates for $35. And 2 tubes of steel epoxy for $8. And a new rotary tool for $20. :hihi:

 

[smoke4170]

Probably the JLT, and I'll probably go through Tillmans. I might pick up a used C&L racer for $150 then get the tune through Tillmans.

By the way... Boomtubes are my #1 choice right now. Have yours started rusting on the inside like Judi's?

The only thing I don't like about the JLT, is that it looks like something you could make yourself... a piece of PVC pipe, a rubber elbow, filter, and there you go, instant JLT CAI!! :nogrinner But the C&L racer MAF might be a little too big for what you got.:headscratch:

On another note, I haven't noticed any rust anywhere on my 'Tubes, they still look and sound as good(if not a little louder since being broke in) as the day I bought them! :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup

 

[hotshot]

The nicest thing about axlebacks is them getting louder as they age

 

[Andywalls]

or getting nice like roush tips on the end of us bassani's!

That was a real treat!

 

[cvarley]

He already did purchase some stock ones.

Sorry, I was refering to anyone who is thinking about doing this in the future. Don't think it is a good idea to start modding factory parts without having a spare set.

 

[Preston951]

Sorry, I was refering to anyone who is thinking about doing this in the future. Don't think it is a good idea to start modding factory parts without having a spare set.

Amen to that, unless what you're doing is completely reversible. :bigthumbsup

 

[brad1287]

The center rod is HARD to remove. Apparently some are easier to remove than others. If you can't pull yours out (I couldn't, even with all my weight), you have to get it out somehow.

Right in the center on the top of the plate you'll see an area of the casting that sticks up like a nipple. Use a 1/4" drill bit and drill down until it stops. There's a pin in there. Use a punch to beat it out through the bottom, then take some piers (I used vise-grips) and pull the pin out.

It will slide out with no problem. There are a couple of small springs inside of those holes where the rod articulates. They may not fall out so you need to be sure you remove them.

 

[jaja6009]

Very nice write up Preston. Cant wait to hear how much you like your CAI, tune and delete plates. Should make for some nice power. LET THE POWER MODDING BEGIN!

 

[Preston951]

Right in the center on the top of the plate you'll see an area of the casting that sticks up like a nipple. Use a 1/4" drill bit and drill down until it stops. There's a pin in there. Use a punch to beat it out through the bottom, then take some piers (I used vise-grips) and pull the pin out.

It will slide out with no problem. There are a couple of small springs inside of those holes where the rod articulates. They may not fall out so you need to be sure you remove them.

Yeah... I got that pin out. No idea why the center rod wouldn't come out? Maybe the bearings were sealed in there too well. I ended up putting the quicksteel over the bearings.

 

[brad1287]

Yeah... I got that pin out. No idea why the center rod wouldn't come out? Maybe the bearings were sealed in there too well. I ended up putting the quicksteel over the bearings.

Haha. Well, that works too. I made mine about a month ago, but I've still not decided whether to put them on. I'm just afraid of the quicksteel falling out and into the runners. I would feel stupid trashing a motor because I didn't want to spend $140 bucks.

 

[Preston951]

Haha. Well, that works too. I made mine about a month ago, but I've still not decided whether to put them on. I'm just afraid of the quicksteel falling out and into the runners. I would feel stupid trashing a motor because I didn't want to spend $140 bucks.

Amen to that. But if it ends up being proven safe than I may have to put them in... :scratchchin

 

[shifter87]

I wandered about that but hey do it right and not quick is the method I am going buy and also allowing plenty of time for it to dry.