Question about installing BMR lower control ar relocation brackets - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010 Thread Starter
KDT
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Question about installing BMR lower control ar relocation brackets

I am installing a set of BMR rear lower control arm relocation brackets. Do I need to weld the outside facing the tire? The instructions only mention welding the inside. The outside is a little difficult to get to with a grinder because of the brakes. What do you guys think?

2008 Vapor Silver GT, 5 Spd Manual Brenspeed Stg 1 Edelbrock E Force, Liberty built 3650 trans w/26 spline input shaft, N2MB WOT Box, GT 500 Fuel System, Kooks Long Tubes, Dynotech Drive Shaft, 3:73 Gears, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR LCA Relocation Brackets, Exedy Mach 500 clutch, Nitto Drag Radials


"RWHP - enough to get from 0-95mph in 7.61 seconds"
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDT View Post
I am installing a set of BMR rear lower control arm relocation brackets. Do I need to weld the outside facing the tire? The instructions only mention welding the inside. The outside is a little difficult to get to with a grinder because of the brakes. What do you guys think?
Not sure on the BMR`S these are my CHE`S.
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JLT CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation battery kit and cut off switch,PTC converter,Bogarts and Hosier QTP`S.
11:903 ET, 1.67 60`,111.897 MPH
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010
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Mine are bolted only. I think the welds you did will be fine. GA

05GT, 09 GT500 Drivetrain, 2.6 pulley, JLT intake, 18x9.5 GT500 wheels, 14" Brembos, Steeda: Front strut pads, rear Watts link, X5 ball joints, Vogtland GT500 L Springs, Tokicko D-Specs, GT500 Front lower control arms, BMR:K-Member, Tube rad support, adj upper third link, rear relo brackets,JBA long tubes and catted mid pipe, Stillen adj front & rear sway bars, Bump steer kit, Steeda shifter, Spydershaft Aluminum DS.
John Lund tune, 568 rwhp, 560 tq.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010
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Mine are not welded. But then I don't drag race. I expect your weld will hold up to quite a bit of torque and you will be fine unless you drag race and have mods that significantly increase the power on the control arm. If that were the case, you probably would not have lowered the rear end unless you were a serious road racer.

'06 GT, manual, Satin Silver, lt. grey cloth int., IUP.
MODIFICATIONS - Goodyear F1 GS-D3s; 245/45 on 18x9, 275/40 on 18x10| Progress Technology springs & sway bars| Steeda adj. panhard bar, panhard brace, front control arm brace & bushings| strut tower brace| Tokico D-Spec dampers| CHE adj. LCAs & BMR relocation brackets |drilled & slotted front rotors| C&L intake| BamaChips SCT tune| FRPP 4.10 ring & pinion| Pypes off road H-pipes| FRPP GTA mufflers.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010
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Even though it was a PITA I welded my BMR brackets both sides. Curious to hear if others think the effort was worth it or not.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010 Thread Starter
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I finished up on the relocation brackets last night. I went ahead and welded them on both sides to be safe. They turned out really nice. I pulled the driveshaft out tonight and adjusted my pinion angle. I finally got everything back together and took it out for a spin. I can really feel difference with the brackets. Traction is definitely better. Now I realize that I should have done this before now.

2008 Vapor Silver GT, 5 Spd Manual Brenspeed Stg 1 Edelbrock E Force, Liberty built 3650 trans w/26 spline input shaft, N2MB WOT Box, GT 500 Fuel System, Kooks Long Tubes, Dynotech Drive Shaft, 3:73 Gears, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR LCA Relocation Brackets, Exedy Mach 500 clutch, Nitto Drag Radials


"RWHP - enough to get from 0-95mph in 7.61 seconds"
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDT View Post
I finished up on the relocation brackets last night. I went ahead and welded them on both sides to be safe. They turned out really nice. I pulled the driveshaft out tonight and adjusted my pinion angle. I finally got everything back together and took it out for a spin. I can really feel difference with the brackets. Traction is definitely better. Now I realize that I should have done this before now.
Good Job KDT! Now tell you got an extra set of sticky tires, preferably MT`S. Then... I will tell you, that you are getting traction.

JLT CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation battery kit and cut off switch,PTC converter,Bogarts and Hosier QTP`S.
11:903 ET, 1.67 60`,111.897 MPH
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010
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Good call on the welding. BMRs absolutely must be welded in securely.

1965 Mustang Coupe
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKid View Post
Not sure on the BMR`S these are my CHE`S.
thats some pretty nice bugger welds BKid, got some slag left too j/k

D.O.B. 3V/GT500 Kit 463 RWHP/ 465 RWTRQ @ 11.5 PSI on 92oct - Dyno Dynamics Dyno
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