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it's hard for anyone to on here to say without looking at it first hand. I just installed a bbk 62mm twin tonight. Best thing to do is remove the actuator motor and have a boo at what is going on. If it's acting that bad, remove the entire throttle body, clean it, grease it, clean it again, re-install. It sounds like it just might be dirty and need a good cleaning. Once the actuator and tps is remove work the throttle plate and see how it's acting free moving.
That should at least get you started to figuring it out.
i had to replace the tps because the car kept going into fail safe. i got codes for tps and throttle actuator. so i replaced the tps and reset the voltage for the sensor just as all the write ups tell you how to do it.
but the clicking only seems to happen in cold weather and only the first time i start the car. i looked at the gears for the throttle body and they move freely. what would cause the throttle actuator code?? would it be to replace the electric throttle motor possibly?
the car never made this noise until i replaced the tps
just so you know you can order a complete throttle body right from ford for the 2005 model @ $ 159.00, (that includes the tb, tps, and actuator motor.) they are marked down because of the year. It might be worth it to buy one so you have a secondary backup just in case, so you don't leave yourself stranded. They're very sensitive so it's hard to say if it's the motor or something else. If you can't get one for that price call Steve @ Parts @ Campbell Ford in Ottawa, toll free (google it) and they can have it sent to your dealership location in Nova Scotia
Thank you. I almost want to go back to the stock tb. i ran my bbk one for about a year with no problems but ever since i replaced the tps it is always making a fast clicking sound right before i start it. and if i do not wait until the clicking stops before i start the car it will shoot up to 4000rpm.
its frustrating because the tb always worked for me and never cause issues. could the voltage on the tps being off cause it to click?
it's definitely outta whack somewhere, try and find another tps and try it? I don't think anyone has the perfect answer for you, unfortunately. Take it off, clean with qtip and reinstall it, maybe it's a faulty sensor? Explain what is happening to whereever you bought it and see if you can exchange it?
after hooking up a new snap on scan tool i am getting a tb code that is "actuator ice blockage" code. thing is there is nothing blocking the tb plate and theres no ice at all. its above freezing. it has done this ever since i replaced the tps sensor. iv adjusted it many times and have tried to fix it but no luck. even borrowed a friends stock tb just to get the voltage from it. still no luuck.
what is the voltage at with the key in the on postion? It doesn't sound like it's calibrated properly. are you able to move the throttle body plate by hand with little ease a few times and then re-check the voltage? I would simply use a digital voltmeter first to verify the voltage, adjust if necessary and then cycle the key three times to do a "soft reset" and start the car.
You should be able to move the throttle body plate with your finger, and it will close on its own. If it takes excessive or considerable force to open the plate with your finger, something is definitely wrong. There will be some spring tension but not enough to make it too hard to open manually. Maybe you should remove the actuator motor and re-seat the spring and calibrate it again. The voltage should be adjusted to match 100% to what the stock tb had, or you're asking for problems.
It's important to check the voltage, then manually move the throttle plate and check it again to make sure that the tb plate closes fully and goes back again to the exact voltage.. If you just install the throttle body and adjust the voltage without working the throttle body plates it won't be exact. I only say this because when I installed the bbk tb, i checked the voltage, thought it was set then worked the throttle body plate and
when it closed it it was drastically off and had to adjust it again.
Borrowing another tb is useless because every engine has a different tps voltage from the factory. Why do you not have your original throttle body? You should always keep stuff like that even if you don't intend to use it. I can't remember the exact number for mine but I think it was 1.21, and I think the range is anywhere from 1.13-1.27 but don't quote me
i have checked the plate opening and closing. it opens ok and springs shut like normal. i checked the voltage with the stock throttle body. and matched it with the bbk one. but something stioll seems out of whack.. frustrating. it only clicks for 5 seconds and only on first start up in the morning.
well i know its an old thread.....but back to the same issue.
I ran the car all summer and it seemed to work fine. now that its getting colder out it seems to be clicking again as if the throttle blades are jamming up. what i have come to think is that the metal that the bbk unit is made of tends to contract and shrink in cold weather and jam up the throttle blades. or the plastic gears jam up more.
thing is i never had this issue for the first 2 years i owned the car. and last summer when i changed the tps sensor i am nor having this failsafe engine issue that wont go away.
tonight i drove the car. it clicked when i turned the key foward... i waited till it stopped then started the car. it ran fine. I went 2km down the road and as i was cruising it reved up to 4500rpm then shut off. now am getting the same engine failsafe codes which are 3 codes. Thing is when i set the tps voltage according to bbk specs it seems to fluctuate. Once i set it to 1.21 it will stay there for a min. but when i go to check it the voltage changes to 1.31 or even 1.11 sometimes. it never stays the same. I know the bbk unit is junk. thing is i bought the car with it already on and dont have a stock throttle body that i can keep. Plus the person who dyno tuned my car has my MAF scalings set up for the 62mm bbk throttle body and not the oem one. So the tune would be off too.
im having horrible luck. It does this to me about every 5 months.
Sell the BBK throttle body, and get GT500 unit...I just posted a thread about an alternate source for that TB. Ford F250, F350, Excursions, etc. I was having issues with my BBK unit as well....you're not alone. Mine would also rev up high at start up....stay at 3-4000 for 3-5 seconds. Even with a tune.
2005 GT premium convertible. Crimson red leather, 18" w Falken rubber. Procharger P1 HO intercooled kit, GT500 throttle body, C&L intake manifold, Edelbrock shorties, Spec stage 3 clutch, Shelby shorty shifter, 3" Granatelli exhaust. Bilstein Shocks and struts, DBA rotors, Hawk pads, Ford Racing swaybars and springs, billet lower control arms, adjustable upper, adjustable panhard bar.
Have you tried cleaning the tb and maf? that could help things a bit. Maybe pop of the end where the spring is and make sure it's set right. There should be a video on youtube about opening the bbk tb.
2006 Mustang GT: 5-speed (was auto)
Show: Hood scoop // Side Scoops // Louvers // GT500 Spoiler // Rear diffuser insert // Stripes // Mustang trunk letters // Interior goodies.
Go: JLT intake // J&M LCA's // J&M UCA // Strut tower brace // FRPP Front Lower Control Arm Brace // Pro 5.0 Shifter with MGW blue striped shift ball.
Flow: Flowmaster American Thunders.
Stereo: Pioneer DEH 2200ub.
Oh and of course, the lead foot mod