How difficult to change rear differential fluid? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012 Thread Starter
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How difficult to change rear differential fluid?

2006 Mustang GT, How difficult is it to change the rear differential fluid? Any tips or tricks. Will I need a torque wrench?

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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It is easy. Haynes manual would
Help. Hardest part is braking the diff seal. Just make sure there are NO burrs when you re-seal it or it will leak. Take off the bolts. Put a drain pan under it. I used a putty knife and hammered into the cover/diff seal or gap and let it drain out. Clean the rest of the oil out and the. Spray it with brake cleaner all up in the gears. Check for metal shavings in the bottom of diff, there is a small pocket. Clean off old diff cover really good. I didn't use a gasket. I used black rtv and put it around the diff cover and when you put it on....do it right the first time. Tighten bolts. Let it cure. Add friction modifier first and then diff oil. That is off of memory. Get the Haynes or google it. Oh yeah, chock the front and jack the back and put the jack stands on the axle to give room to work.
post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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One other thing: gear oil smells like a bag of dead a$$holes. Use latex gloves when getting in there and old clothes. Trust me on that one. The smell sticks.
post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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SheizaSoSay has all good advice there.

Easy job, just dirty as hell. You don't nee a torque wrench as long as you have "mechanics feel". Don't over-tighten or you'll warp the sheet metal cover. Gaskets are hard to find and most guys just use RTV.

Get a short length of clear tubing that fits the nipple on your lube bottle. It will make filling easier

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SheizaSoSay View Post
One other thing: gear oil smells like a bag of dead a$$holes. Use latex gloves when getting in there and old clothes. Trust me on that one. The smell sticks.

he is 150% correct. also, due to the location of the fill hole on top of the rear end housing, and the fact that the GT dual exhaust runs right there on both sides, it is hard to not spill the crap everywhere when trying to fill up the diff. not much room to maneuver the oil bottle. if you have access to a fluid pump to pump the oil in, i would highly recommend it. otherwise take Yadkins advice on the tube. i got oil all over the damn exhaust trying to fit the bottle up in that super tight location and my car smelled like a cooked bag of dead a$$holes for a month.

other than that it is a piece of cake. put pan under diff cover, unbolt the diff cover, drain fluid, take some old but not dirty shop rags or some paper towels (buy a roll of the blue ones from oreillys or walmart in the auto section, not household towels) and wipe out the housing as good as you can.

cover the carrier and gears with either a plastic bag or some shop rags / blue towels to keep them clean from the next step. take a die grinder and clean up the mating surfaces on both the housing and diff cover. GET THEM BOTH AS CLEAN AS POSSIBLE, you dont want any leaks. if you dont have a die grinder, buy one, they are not that expensive and have a ton of uses. scrapers will work too, but scraping sucks. if you are fortunate enough have a bench grinder with a wire wheel, that sucker will make quick work of cleaning up the diff cover. wipe out housing again from any debris that got in from this step.

you can also use a parts washer on the diff cover if you have one, just make sure you wipe all the solvent off afterwards. you can either use RTV or a new gasket (i prefer gaskets) to seal the diff cover back on. if you use RTV, get that cover on quick after you apply it to the housing. i didnt torque the bolts, just tightened them up good, but not too tight or they will strip and/or distort the cover, gasket, or RTV. then fill her up. oil hole is on top of housing, drivers side. fill it till it overflows out the top, then put in plug, tighten good but not too tight and you are good to go.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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oh yeah, and dont forget to add the friction modifier before you do the oil, otherwise it wont go in due to the overflow!!

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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If you replace the cover while you are at it then it will be easier the next time and you'll and a stronger rear diff.
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RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTNOS View Post
it is hard to not spill the crap everywhere when trying to fill up the diff. not much room to maneuver the oil bottle.
speaking of which...after the fact I went to AutoZone to dispose of the oil and there it was, slapping me in the face: a little $4 piece that is specifically made to put in oil (or whatever) in hard to reach spaces. I don't know what is called, but I assure you it is cheap as hell and will make your life WAY WAY easier. Due to clearances it's hard to "tip" the oil into the fill hole.


if you have access to a fluid pump to pump the oil in, i would highly recommend it. my car smelled like a cooked bag of dead a$$holes for a month.
hilarious
I don't have a stock diff cover. So I can't remember if this is valid, but on my diff cover I have a drain plug and I had to put tefflon tape around the threads so it won't leak. Again, may not apply to you.
post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SheizaSoSay View Post
I don't have a stock diff cover. So I can't remember if this is valid, but on my diff cover I have a drain plug and I had to put tefflon tape around the threads so it won't leak. Again, may not apply to you.

the stocker doesnt have drain plug. like someone else said, an aftermarket one with a plug is nice!

i will DEFINATELY get that 4 dollar piece the next time im in there....

2006 Tungsten GT 5 speed -Hurst | C & L CAI, | Predator running 91 torque tune (91 race for track)-BAMA. | MAC Boomtubes | FRPP 4.10s|Kaenan 3in cowl hood.

2006 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 Black- 5.4, Hellbent Steel 2.5 level with 35x12.5x20 toyo m/ts on blk XD Hoss wheels, roll up tonneau, Gotts CAI, predator 91 performance tune.

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Yeah funny story. I changed mine last summer and what I first tried was using a hose and just squirting the diff fluid into the pig and while I'm doing it the hose pops off and that sh*t spills all over my chest. It soaked through my shirt and all I could smell was diff fluid for three days. After that happened, I went and bought a pump
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctt326 View Post
Yeah funny story. I changed mine last summer and what I first tried was using a hose and just squirting the diff fluid into the pig and while I'm doing it the hose pops off and that sh*t spills all over my chest. It soaked through my shirt and all I could smell was diff fluid for three days. After that happened, I went and bought a pump
One more good reason for the aftermarket cover with useable fill and drain plugs that don't require a contorsionist to get to.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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Crap I learned on changing the cover/oil...

If you have an aftermarket cover, teflon tape or threadlock the fill/drain plugs. Use a gasket and use the proper sealant. Torque the bolts in the proper sequence. Use a pump. You'd spill more than $10 of oil without using a $5 pump. And if you have the right thread use a stud or 2 to help guide that cover on without it getting all squishy while mounting it. (Wish I'd thought of this when I did mine!!) And wear old clothes. That crap is teh stink.

I had to remove the panhard bar to get the cover on right.
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Quote:
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Crap I learned on changing the cover/oil...

If you have an aftermarket cover, teflon tape or threadlock the fill/drain plugs. Use a gasket and use the proper sealant. Torque the bolts in the proper sequence. Use a pump. You'd spill more than $10 of oil without using a $5 pump. And if you have the right thread use a stud or 2 to help guide that cover on without it getting all squishy while mounting it. (Wish I'd thought of this when I did mine!!) And wear old clothes. That crap is teh stink.

I had to remove the panhard bar to get the cover on right.
You can use a couple of dowl pins to line the cover up also. They just need to be smaal enough to fit in the bolt holes without damaging the threads.

Forged bottom end, Ported heads, Saleen super charger, 2.8 blower pulley/15psi, Dual stage water to air intercooler, AFCO heat exchanger, battery relocated, Twin GT500 fuel pumps, T-56 trans, Aluminum flywheel, Aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear gears, Eaton TruTrac Diff, TA Performance rear end girdle, Racecraft suspension system, UCA, LCA, panhard bar, 15" slotted front rotors w/ 6 piston calipers, Carbon Fiber front splitter/rear diffuser, and bunch of other stuff
RWHP/RWTQ is adequate
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The FRPP diff cover is an excellent fit, will clear an aftermarket panhard bar too. The guy who installed my gears and diff cover was impressed with it.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012 Thread Starter
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thanks for all the info

2006 Mustang GT, Steeda CAI and UDP, 3.73 gears, Kooks headers and catted x pipe, Flowmaster Mufflers, MSD, SCT X3, 93 Performance Bama Tune, AM Anthrocite Bullets - 20x9/10
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