USE THE NORMAL JACK POINTS ON THE PINCH WELDS.
Especially up front. Jacking under where the K-member attaches loads the tub/torque box/footwells in ways they were not designed to take loads that large. If you do, the early sign of having done it wrong is an "oilcanning" sound when you push down on the floor with your foot as you get out of the car - what has happened is that the OE floorpan shape has been compromised (this can be corrected to some extent with a heavy hammer and a block of wood from inside the car).
What you'll want is a block of wood with a groove cut in it that you'll fit the pinch weld into without quite bottomming out the pinch weld in the groove. One block for each corner. Cut the grooves across the grain, else the weight of the car will simply split the wood.
Out back, I like the axle tube locations better than the LCA bracket points, but it's a little tougher to do (and I'm recommending against jacking by the pumpkin).
'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . and still not lowered
'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)