jack stands placement - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012 Thread Starter
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jack stands placement

Up here in michigan I've pretty much parked my 08 for a few months. I want to put it up on jack stand and get some under side detailing done. Where is a good place to set the stand? In the rear, about the only thing I see is the LCA front mount point? Up front I looks like the front sub frame mount point to the body? Is there any better places to set the car on stands?? John
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012
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Those are the only ones I could suggest. Another option if your willing to spend some money is a set of ramps or a set of drive up ramps with a stand which will raise your full car but the ramps with stand is very costly

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012
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I put jack stands under the axle tubes. Just make sure you put them as far out towards the wheels as you can. Getting them right next to the suspension mounts would be recommended.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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USE THE NORMAL JACK POINTS ON THE PINCH WELDS.

Especially up front. Jacking under where the K-member attaches loads the tub/torque box/footwells in ways they were not designed to take loads that large. If you do, the early sign of having done it wrong is an "oilcanning" sound when you push down on the floor with your foot as you get out of the car - what has happened is that the OE floorpan shape has been compromised (this can be corrected to some extent with a heavy hammer and a block of wood from inside the car).


What you'll want is a block of wood with a groove cut in it that you'll fit the pinch weld into without quite bottomming out the pinch weld in the groove. One block for each corner. Cut the grooves across the grain, else the weight of the car will simply split the wood.

Out back, I like the axle tube locations better than the LCA bracket points, but it's a little tougher to do (and I'm recommending against jacking by the pumpkin).



Norm

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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Welcome aboard Norm!
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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Thanks, Steve.


Norm

'08 GT coupe, 5M, wheels, tires, pads, fluid, a few suspension mods . . . and still not lowered
'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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Welcome aboard Norm!
Same here, Norm. I've always enjoyed your posts.
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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So, you shouldn't jack the car up by the center of the K member in front of the engine then? I've not heard anyone say not to do that before. I've heard that you shouldn't jack from the pumpkin out back because the axle tube / diff housing joint can be damaged over time.

I would be interested seeing an example of the pinch weld adapters you made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
USE THE NORMAL JACK POINTS ON THE PINCH WELDS.

Especially up front. Jacking under where the K-member attaches loads the tub/torque box/footwells in ways they were not designed to take loads that large. If you do, the early sign of having done it wrong is an "oilcanning" sound when you push down on the floor with your foot as you get out of the car - what has happened is that the OE floorpan shape has been compromised (this can be corrected to some extent with a heavy hammer and a block of wood from inside the car).


What you'll want is a block of wood with a groove cut in it that you'll fit the pinch weld into without quite bottomming out the pinch weld in the groove. One block for each corner. Cut the grooves across the grain, else the weight of the car will simply split the wood.

Out back, I like the axle tube locations better than the LCA bracket points, but it's a little tougher to do (and I'm recommending against jacking by the pumpkin).



Norm

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Show: Katzkin Leather Interior, Matte Black 10" Stripes, NXT Step Performance Axlebacks, Pypes M80 Mufflers (mid mounted), CDC Sequential Tail Lights, 14" Shorty Antenna, Ford OEM Plenum Cover, Ford Semigloss Black Painted Valve Covers, Leather Wrapped OEM Steering Wheel
Go: Airaid Race CAI, BAMA Tune, J&M Lower Control Arms, JLT Oil Separator
Coming Soon: Motive 4.10 gears
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012
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I'd like to see some pics too.
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Ask and you shall receive.

This block was used with an aluminum floor jack for a couple of autocross seasons (swapping between competition and street tires on the 626).

You'd want to do something a little more secure about the base of this sort of block for use with the better jackstands (steel angle or channel clips), and you'd probably want to grind the tops of cast jackstand posts flat.


Norm
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Name:	Pinchweld Block1.jpg
Views:	1106
Size:	22.5 KB
ID:	167811  

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'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Ask and you shall receive.

This block was used with an aluminum floor jack for a couple of autocross seasons (swapping between competition and street tires on the 626).

You'd want to do something a little more secure about the base of this sort of block for use with the better jackstands (steel angle or channel clips), and you'd probably want to grind the tops of cast jackstand posts flat.


Norm
So Just for clarification then. If you jack from the pinch weld, where do you put your jack stand on that side. Do you jack by the pinch weld with your adapter and then put jack stands under the frame rail? What I've typically done is just jack by the center of the K member from the front to get the hole front of the car off the ground, and then placed my jackstands under the K-member. If I'm not going to jack by the K-Member any more, then I need to figure out a method of jack placement and jack stand placement so I can go corner to corner.

2008 Mustang GT Deluxe, Black, Manual Transmission, Black Cloth Interior
Show: Katzkin Leather Interior, Matte Black 10" Stripes, NXT Step Performance Axlebacks, Pypes M80 Mufflers (mid mounted), CDC Sequential Tail Lights, 14" Shorty Antenna, Ford OEM Plenum Cover, Ford Semigloss Black Painted Valve Covers, Leather Wrapped OEM Steering Wheel
Go: Airaid Race CAI, BAMA Tune, J&M Lower Control Arms, JLT Oil Separator
Coming Soon: Motive 4.10 gears
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Jack and support at the pinchweld. Support where the circles in the thumbnail are (I think these locations are slightly notched), jack from as close as you can get.

I hope the picture (picked from the 2008 FSM) is readable. If not, try zooming in on the window it pops up in, or copy/paste it into some picture software and enlarging it there.


Norm
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Name:	S197JackPoints.jpg
Views:	3200
Size:	128.1 KB
ID:	167814  

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'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Jack and support at the pinchweld. Support where the circles in the thumbnail are (I think these locations are slightly notched), jack from as close as you can get.

I hope the picture (picked from the 2008 FSM) is readable. If not, try zooming in on the window it pops up in, or copy/paste it into some picture software and enlarging it there.


Norm
Thanks!

This might be the first time I've ever seen anyone put up a picture showing the S197. So many times people will show a jacking point image like this, but its on the SN95 platform.

2008 Mustang GT Deluxe, Black, Manual Transmission, Black Cloth Interior
Show: Katzkin Leather Interior, Matte Black 10" Stripes, NXT Step Performance Axlebacks, Pypes M80 Mufflers (mid mounted), CDC Sequential Tail Lights, 14" Shorty Antenna, Ford OEM Plenum Cover, Ford Semigloss Black Painted Valve Covers, Leather Wrapped OEM Steering Wheel
Go: Airaid Race CAI, BAMA Tune, J&M Lower Control Arms, JLT Oil Separator
Coming Soon: Motive 4.10 gears
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Second vote for the pinch welds. Prefer to let the rear axle drop so I have more free room to work on exhaust, fuel lines or whatever. I don't use adapters though. Second winter the car has spent sitting on jack stands and no problems.
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I’ve been putting a LOT of S197’s a LOT of times since 2006 using jackstands and lifts.

Yellow- DO NOT jack or put jackstands under this part of the K-member, you will crush the “torque boxes” and they are no fun to fix.

Red- I have been placing jackstands in these locations since day one, no problem.

Blue- These are what I use for jacking points. Center of K-member and rear end “pumpkin”. Again, never a problem. I have been jacking 8.8 rear ends up by the pumpkin since 1989 and never had one problem. I doubt you will too.

Green- Like Norm said these are fantastic jack stand points the only problem is an interface between your jackstands and the small “slot” that they need to go in. They need something custom to work right.
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