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2005-2010 Mustang GT Tech Forum

2011-2014 Talk | 2011-2014 GT | 2011-2014 V6 | 2005-2010 Talk | 2005-2010 GT | 2005-2010 V6 | Shelby GT500 | Mustang Tech 
 

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Unread 08-07-2013   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirbster View Post
So is there any difference in the 11+ calipers and the 05-10s? Are they bigger? This sounds like a good upgrade.
No. Same calipers. The disk and bracket are different.
I bought the 2012 Roush take-off kit. I didn't want to have to bleed the brakes again so I used my 2005 caliper.
So I have a set to use if the old ones tank.
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Unread 08-07-2013   #17 (permalink)
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http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...rformance+Pads

End of story. These pads are amazing! No noise, almost no dust and they work good on the street and up to about 80% (which is a lot) on the track.
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Unread 08-07-2013   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkboy316 View Post
if you want to feel firmer stopping power, pads and rotors wont do that as much as just switching to stainless lines and a quality fluid like ATE super blue

thats where the firmness comes in is from getting rid of the "squishy lines". its not so much the pads and rotors.

pads and rotors help yes, but get those stainless lines first and youll see what im talking about, it will firm up even the stock pads and rotors.
+1. Funkboy is right on. I have done OEM replacement pads/rotors, performance upgraded pads/rotors (hawk and brembro) on countless cars... and sure the performance pads and rotors "felt" a little better. But NOTHING has a better "feeling" then upgrading to stainless steel brake lines. Takes the squishy pedal feeling right out. I've done it on my Mustang and Marauder, and a buddy's Grand Prix GTP...and without a doubt, the upgraded brake lines and fluid made more difference in feel than any pad/rotor combo replacement I've ever experienced.
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Unread 08-08-2013   #19 (permalink)
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I’ve been putting braided lines on cars/motorcycles for about 20yrs now. I’ve used them for street duty on one end of the spectrum to tracks like Daytona where you are breaking from just under 200mph to about 45mph once a lap.

Braided lines do give slightly better feel. That said they are not even close to a sliver bullet answer for “brake performance”. In fact strictly speaking they don’t improve brake performance at all.

If you can afford/run stainless lines by all means do it. They won’t hurt. But don’t get them thinking they are going to turn your brakes into “race brakes” all by themselves.
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Unread 08-08-2013   #20 (permalink)
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sqidd is right... you can replace just about the whole kit and still be marginal to the 'race brake'. Still you can mimic what the pros run and spend $60/quart for fluid. Adding brake ducts, bigger disks, blue fluid get closer...

The best braking I ever had was on a 944 with stainless lines and 2 piston calipers. If I had that on my GT, I'd cry.
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Unread 08-09-2013   #21 (permalink)
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Honestly after tossing around many ideas I decided to put the stock pads and rotors from ford right back on it. The rears have lasted 65k miles and the fronts are still going strong. With my shop rate I pay about the same for the OEM pads And rotors as I would for another cheap alternative and it was alot less than upgrading to something else like slotted rotors and hawk pads. Plus the OEM pads stop great! You can actually loose stopping power if you choose the wrong pads. Like upgrading the rears from the factory semi mat material to ceramic. My factory brakes lasted forever, they are super quiet, (Have never made even the slightest noise, pretty impressive for 6yr old pads and rotors with 65k) and they perform amazing for street driving. If I was tracking my car I would consider other options and shell out some coin. But the stock setup is awesome and it can handle anything you can dish out on the street.
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Unread 08-14-2013   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07GTStallion View Post
Honestly after tossing around many ideas I decided to put the stock pads and rotors from ford right back on it. The rears have lasted 65k miles and the fronts are still going strong. With my shop rate I pay about the same for the OEM pads And rotors as I would for another cheap alternative and it was alot less than upgrading to something else like slotted rotors and hawk pads. Plus the OEM pads stop great!

You can actually loose stopping power if you choose the wrong pads. Like upgrading the rears from the factory semi mat material to ceramic.
Buy ceramics for dust control only. If it's severe duty braking performance that you seek, forget that the word 'ceramic' even exists.


Quote:
My factory brakes lasted forever, they are super quiet, (Have never made even the slightest noise, pretty impressive for 6yr old pads and rotors with 65k) and they perform amazing for street driving. If I was tracking my car I would consider other options and shell out some coin. But the stock setup is awesome and it can handle anything you can dish out on the street.
For strictly street driving, the OE pads are the best overall compromise for most folks (for unusually hard driving or in brisk back road mountain driving, perhaps not). After all, the OE brake engineers did put more than a little thought into their choices. Hell, they had to build and certify the ABS around something that was at least adequate to meet FMVSS-whatever.

However, if OE pads are all that a person has ever had on their cars, it won't be possible for them to understand the difference in bite that you can get from a more performance-oriented pad. Not without trying them. Pads do make for the biggest change in feel, at least as a single first step away from an all-OE system. The initial downsides are typically noise and dust generation, further up the food chain there are issues with rotor wear rates and poorish cold bite.


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