Ford Mustang Forum banner

supercharger ideas

1K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  nicholasa631 
#1 ·
So I'm debating between a procharger or a whipple supercharger. I like the idea of being able to add a new intake manifold, throttle body, then when I have the large money put the procharger on. However I like the idea of just throwing a supercharger on. I was wondering about the pros and cons of both styles and which is "safer" on a stock motor. I currently have about 107k on the engine thus far and would like to see it last another 5 years
 
#2 ·
I love my Roush TVS2300 setup with the Brenspeed 560R upgrade kit. Probably around 450 RWHP. No issues at all over the last year and a half. Recently upgraded heat exchanger to the Afco dual fan unit and runs even stronger now.
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Neither is "safer" than the other. It's all in the tune. However, like sqidd said, the two are day and night different. ProCharger has that high rpm rush, whipple has low end grunt. It would be convenient if you can find some local stangs to ride or drive in to feel how the two blowers deliver power. I'm a ProCharger guy myself, but those positive displacement blowers sure do pull hard down low.
 
#6 ·
I ridden in both and I love both designs. What I like with the procharger design is I can do bolt ons and when I ready to go F/I I can put it on or if I decide to stay N/A I can do that. On the other hand if I go for the roots or twin screw design I can just put that on and call it a day. I do drag race couple times a year on the track and like that the procharger gives me the the high rpm power however I kind of like with the other designs I have the power starting off at the low end. Both have their pros on it. Are there any draw back between the two? I also should say my car is my daily driver, so I'm not sure if that plays much into the choice or not
 
#7 ·
If your running a stock bottom end (or in most cases a built bottom end) a Centri will not make one more HP than a PD blower. Boost is boost. A Centri will feel faster to the let's call it "beginner" and that is because the lack of torque compared to a PD makes it feel like the power comes "wooooshing" in. When in fact what you are feeling is a lack of torque, not a lack of top end power.

It could be argued that in a pure drag race situation a Centri is a "better" unit because there is less launch management. It could also be argued that a PD is better for the street because who wants to wait around for the power to come in? The PD pulls for waaaaaaay down low.

I myself prefer a PD blower for a mostly street driven car (which seems like you situation) because of the torque. There is nothing like punching it in 3rd gear at 2500rpm and moving out RIGHT NOW. With the Centri you will either need to drop a gear or wait for the power to come in.

It is a right tool for the job thing, there is no "better".

As far as blowers go on stock bottom ends you will not find a better power/$$ ratio than the Department Of Boost setup. If you have two cars that both make 450hp the one who spent less money to get that power wins in my book.:grin:
 
#8 ·
Thank you very much. with my current set up it will remain a stock bottom end. Now once this motor goes I plan on dropping a full forged 5.0 coyote crate motor in and going to even more power lol
 
#10 ·
A Coyote swap, especially for a big HP setup is a bad idea. Swapping the motor is easy. The electronics on the other hand is a nightmare. The FRPP "Hot Rod" harness does not plug into the car and work. You need to run the stock 3v ECU to run the car and the Coyote ECU to run the motor and some sort of custom wiring to get everything working together. You may be able to use a stock Coyote ECU and harness, but that means you are swapping the entire car harness.....EVERYTHING. And there will be issues. Or you can run the FRPP control kit and do a custom wiring job on the chassis. That will require all aftermarket gauges though. It is nowhere near plug and play.

Secondly the Coyote blocks aren't nearly as storing as the 3v block is. Anything over 750-800hp is playing with fire using a Coyote. They do crack blocks. Most of the huge HP builds you see are using partially filled (fill the cooling jackets with cement basically) or fully filled blocks. Or are running on borrowed time.

The Coyote bore is bigger than the 4.6. It has thinner cylinder walls. It's as simple as that. Have people gotten away with 800-900-1000hp without cracking a block. Yep, they won't forever though. And most of those people are fully prepared to chuck another motor at it when it breaks. Are you willing to buy a new motor every time it breaks?

You can make 1200+hp with a 3v using off the shelf parts. Why go with a Coyote and deal with all the hassle? Boost is the great equalizer.
 
#9 ·
+1 on the DOB option. Although I love the setup I have now, I would have went the DOB route if I had known to wait another year or so as it was not available at the time I bought my Roush system. I like the DOB setup because of the focus on improving IATs and the option to really turn up the boost as upgrades to the bottom end allow.
 
#11 ·
I thought the ECU and everything would be an easy swap as I'm seeing this done more and more as well as going with a fully forged system which I would have thought would make things safer
 
#12 ·
I thought the ECU and everything would be an easy swap as I'm seeing this done more and more as well as going with a fully forged system which I would have thought would make things safer
You are not seeing Coyote swaps into 3v cars.:wink:
 
#13 ·
Your right, its more of the 04 and older models. Thank you for the help and the information on everything.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top