How to change springs?, 2006 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007 Thread Starter
Rookie
S197 Member
 
junk101's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Palm Coast
Posts: 3
 
How to change springs?, 2006 Mustang GT

Hi,
I was thinking of changing the springs on my 2006 GT, with Eibach or Steeda to lower the car. Can it be a do it your self job or should I have a shop do it? I changed springs before on a Jeep but never on a Mustang. Does any one have any good tips? and links on how to change them?
Thanks for the Info.
junk101 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
Top Dog
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
MickMach's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Front Royal
Posts: 4,390
 
the rears are very easy to change out. the fronts should be done with a spring compressor. take the strut out of your car and take it to a shop and let them change the spring and you put it back together

Saleen S/C 3.2 pulley. Chris Rose tune.

Hot Rod cams, GT500 pumps, CHE goodies on the rear, 4.10's, KOOKS/ O/R X pipe with PYPES Violators, Spydershaft, TCI 3500 stall, PA deep tranny pan. Meziere w/p,M&H 325/45/17 DRs.
S/C---7.201@97.75/11.61@118.62
MickMach is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
SHELBY GT 500 Member
S197 Member
 
travelers's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Eastern
Posts: 10,885
 
+1 on what Mick said. Its the safest way to do it. Just mark the upper bearing so you can tell the shop to assemble it the same way. You might also think seriously about upgrading the upper strut bearing. I would at least put a new stock one in. They do have a poping problem.


2011 GT Candy Red
07 REDFIRE GT Gone
travelers is offline  
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
Apprentice
S197 Member
 
clfrye's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Washington
Posts: 106
 
It isn't a big deal, I changed mine without a problem. Make sure there you take your time and that there isn't much compression left when you separating the front spring from the strut.

07 Grabber Orange Manual GT
Whipple HO Superchager, Tokico D Specs, FRPP Springs, Steeda Rear Sway Bar, Spoon Adjustable Panrod , Flowmaster Axle Backs, J&M Chamber Plates, LCAs and Adjustable UCA, GT500 Brembo brakes, Autometer Nexus Gauges, Thumprrr tensioner, LPW Diff cover
clfrye is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 74,615
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelers View Post
Just mark the upper bearing so you can tell the shop to assemble it the same way.
Is that an issue when using aftermarket cammber plates?

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
SHELBY GT 500 Member
S197 Member
 
travelers's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Eastern
Posts: 10,885
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon View Post
Is that an issue when using aftermarket cammber plates?
With the adjustable ones you want the adjustment to go in and out for the camber adjustment not fwr and aft. which would give you caster.


2011 GT Candy Red
07 REDFIRE GT Gone
travelers is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007
Rookie
S197 Member
 
jack1.1's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 5
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelers View Post
+1 on what Mick said. Its the safest way to do it. Just mark the upper bearing so you can tell the shop to assemble it the same way. You might also think seriously about upgrading the upper strut bearing. I would at least put a new stock one in. They do have a poping problem.
The upper strut bearing plate looks like a big hockey puck. They just wear out like anything else, not a big deal. The point is you have to remove it to replace the front spring, actually it sits on top of the spring (has the 4 studs you see poking thru your shock tower), so the point is, if you have a few miles on your car, might as well replace them when you change out your springs. This is what I did, but mine only had 12k miles on them, by the way, they are listed in the classified along with my proline eibachs for sale!
Really up to you if you replace the upper plate, but also will need an alignment done once you get the springs in, so don't forget to do that. Will need camber bolt kit to do it right or you will never get your alignment back in spec with the lowered springs. Lowering the car with springs is much more than just pulling out the springs and sticking new ones in. You'll need the camber bolt kits (1 each side about $40 each) and an allignment ($85) and if you want it done right the upper plates replaced ($61 list price each side motorcraft). Now add that to the price of the springs and if you get someone to install it or if you do it yourself.

2005 Roush Sport - k&N, full Roush Suspension, GT 500 LCA's
1998 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD - k&N, powerslot rotors, hawk pads, cherry bomb elite cat-back
jack1.1 is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-13-2007
MODERATOR
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
stlwagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Southern
Posts: 74,615
                 
Send a message via Yahoo to stlwagon
Quote:
Originally Posted by jack1.1 View Post
The upper strut bearing plate looks like a big hockey puck. They just wear out like anything else, not a big deal. The point is you have to remove it to replace the front spring, actually it sits on top of the spring (has the 4 studs you see poking thru your shock tower), so the point is, if you have a few miles on your car, might as well replace them when you change out your springs. This is what I did, but mine only had 12k miles on them, by the way, they are listed in the classified along with my proline eibachs for sale!
Really up to you if you replace the upper plate, but also will need an alignment done once you get the springs in, so don't forget to do that. Will need camber bolt kit to do it right or you will never get your alignment back in spec with the lowered springs. Lowering the car with springs is much more than just pulling out the springs and sticking new ones in. You'll need the camber bolt kits (1 each side about $40 each) and an allignment ($85) and if you want it done right the upper plates replaced ($61 list price each side motorcraft). Now add that to the price of the springs and if you get someone to install it or if you do it yourself.
If you get camber/caster plates you don't need the bolts.

1965 Mustang Coupe
stlwagon is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-13-2007
Made Member
S197 Member
 
hogpowr's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 599
 
Steeda Ultralight lowering springs install (w/pics)

This is a link to another forum, one of the members did a real nice write up on installing springs. Be sure to get a front end alignment, when you are done. I rented a spring compressor from Advance Auto parts.

Hope this helps.

'06 GT Vert Torch Red/Black top/int, IUP, Polished Bullits, , PioneerInfinityMTX Sound System, Tuneable Induction by DeMolet, SCT2 93 Octane Tune by Brenspeed, Red Calipers, Steeda Ultra Lites, Shifted by Hurst,
hogpowr is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-24-2007 Thread Starter
Rookie
S197 Member
 
junk101's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Palm Coast
Posts: 3
 
Thanks for all the info. I'll let you know how it goes.
junk101 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182