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Charging System Light and ABS Light Come after Kenne Bell Supercharger Install

862 views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  stang06girl 
#1 ·
Recently came on some cash for unnecessary and awesome update to my Mustang, and eventually settled on the 2.6L Kenne Bell Supercharger.

I pride myself on doing almost all my own work, so naturally, I did the install on my own.

After reassembly, reprogramming and testing. I had removed the intercooler pump relay during programming to avoid premature drain, and forgot to put it back in. Put it back in and the car started on it's own. Things appeared to be going well. Idle the car sounded perfect, and even at higher RPMs and throttle, no silly noises, belt slippage, fuel leaks, coolant leaks, vacuum leaks...just the beautiful sound of the V8 and the whine of the SuperCharger.

But then my Charging System Light came on...naturally this did this on the way to work, so I brought my jump starter just in case. It didn't go away while driving. I got to work ok, and on the way home, the car started right up. But then the light came back on and the cabin started dimming, then the ABS light jumped and then everything just died. I had to end up coming home in a tow truck.

So steps in the install I might not have done perfectly:

1. During the PCM reprogram I used a jump starter instead of a battery charger to provide insurance that my battery wouldn't die mid reprogram. From my understanding that just acts as an extra battery, but it's possible it tricked the PCM during reprogram to think the voltage was higher than it really was...confusing the voltage regulator.

2. The install requires 3 cut and solders. The window washing fluid relocation, the intercooler relay (it's soldered onto the noise suppressor circuit) and the fuel pump booster. While the battery was still alive, all 3 worked perfectly. Window washer sprays full power, intercooler runs high speed and fuel pump works (I got it turning over, so it's obviously getting full pressure).

3. The kit included a MAF jumper to reach the new location of the air box (in front of the passenger wheel). On the MAF circuit jumper is the IAT (Intake Actuator?) connector, which wasn't zip tied down perfectly and the loom melted against the head a bit. Wires look fine, but...who knows. This is since fixed and correctly mounted.

4. 1 ground was relocated. From under the fuse box, to the frame connecting to the PCM bracket. I feel I did this correctly...but...I'm searching here.

My first intuition was that I missed a ground. I checked the Passenger side ground on the strut tower, the moved ground to the PCM, the front passenger ground next to the hood lift bar and the last ground under the original airbox. Also the ground I added in the trunk with the BoostAPump.

Next idea was that the alternator got screwed up during disassembly. I pulled it and took it to OReilly...it's making an impressive 14V on a 10 year old alt. Battery is next. It's about 2 years old, but I had recently killed it on accident leaving a light on then going away for a week. Drove it a bunch after jumping it with no problems well before the install.

From the forums and research I did, it's possible the connector to the alt was messed up, but I'm running out of ideas...

Anyone out there have a similar problem with a KB install or the like?
 
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#2 ·
jump it again and measure voltage at the battery while its running in the car.

i don't think this has much to do with teh KB (except that you were mucking around in the engine bay and may have disconnect or dmg a wire)
focus on the alt and battery and grounds and wires.
 
#4 ·
Update: I took the alternator out and OReilly tested it at 14V, I didn't get the amperage.

I also recharged the battery to 13V.

I took out the multimeter and checked the grounds.

13V from Positive Battery Terminal to alt case. 13V from Alt terminal to negative battery terminal.

I also ran the PCM flash tool to get the codes thrown. Here's the list:

P0622 - Alt Charger (Duh)
P1000 - Battery Disconnect
B1318 x 2
U1900 x 2
C1233 Abs
C1234 abs
C1235 abs
C1236 abs

Maybe the ground by the ABS is acting up?
 
#5 ·
I would disregard the ABS codes for now, most likely triggered by the lack of adequate voltage on the B+ line to the ABS unit. P1000 is a readiness indicator telling DMV inspection the battery was disconnected and that some or all of the emissions components have not completed testing. B1318 is battery volts low. u1900 can bus fault.

going by what I see, if you fix the charging system, those codes will clear. I would check the harness back to the firewall and anything you disturbed first.
 
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