Last October we bought on 07 GT with an auto trans and took it to the 1/8 mile track for street legal night. Don't know what the DA was that night, but it ran 9.8@ 71 MPH. Lame. This was 100% stock. It wouldn't even break the tires loose, even at 35 psi.
Well, over the winter we put on all the bolt ons: 91 octane tune, 4.10 gears, 3K converter, CAI, detroit rocker cams (which sound awesome), LT headers and hi flo cats, delete plates, UDPs, alum driveshaft. It has full BMR rear suspension and strange single adj front and rear shocks, and front sway bar delete too.
It picked up a full second and 10 mph, running 8.79 @ 81 mph at 6000 DA. This is with MT SS drag radials. 275-60-15.
I know it will run faster as the 60 ft was still at 2.0 or so, and this was just the first time out, and the DA was typical for the summer where I race. When Fall comes, hoping to get into the 8.5x range.
Thanks guys. It's been fun working on it, and I think I can get a little more out of it this summer before next winter and the Paxton NOVI SC that's going to go on it. Got second place bracket racing last weekend and won enough money to pay for that day of racing. I was hoping to run 8.50s but the DA is a killer at my track.
I went the N/A route to include a fully built stroker motor and every bolt-on known to mankind and just broke the 400 rwhp barrier. Of course that wasn't enough so I eventually added a Vortech intercooled T-trim. If I had a do-over, I would've just done FI to start with and be done with it.
The NOVI 1200 and Vortech V-3 are the same head unit (which is pretty small and limited. The 2200 is a much larger blower than the 1200. If you're wanting to break about 550rwhp, I'd go with the oil fed unit and not the self lubricating one, as the oil slingers are prone to failure in those high ranges.
Great info on the oil fed versus self-lubricating. I know that when you get above a certain HP level, the cost goes up and up. I want to be where I can just run my stock trans (with hardened input shaft), c-clip moser 31 spline axles and detroit tru trac, and SS drag radials, all of which I have right now. I don't need even 550 rwhp. I am not going to run slicks on this car, so that limits it right there. 550 at the crank would put me in the mid 7s (7.25 is the fastest I can run) at my 1/8 mile track, and that would be great for a daily driver street car on radial tires. My 520fwhp/540tq 69 chevelle ran in the 7.60s with ET streets and 4.11s. (typical DA 5-6K)
Is there a difference with throttle response when you move up to a bigger blower like the 2200? Would the 1200 work better with the gearing I have now, 4.10s?
A larger blower will produce more power on less boost. That means lower intake air temperatures, which should make drivability and power more consistent.
5800. I really was thinking that I wouldn't get in the 8.50s until sept. when the DA is in the 4000-4500 range on the Friday night street legal races, but I now I am thinking I can get 8.40s if the DA gets down around 4K, maybe even in the high 8.30s. That would be fun.
The big change driving was I footbraked it further to get my rpms up. It will footbrake to about 2000 rpms. That got my 60' under 2.00.
Your 1/4 Mile ET is 12.64 seconds computed from your vehicle 1/8th ET of 7.931 seconds.
Your 1/4 Mile MPH is 109.86 MPH computed from your vehicle 1/8th MPH of 88.597 MPH.
12.64 @ 109.66 from a N/A 4.6 3V Automatic = Haulin' Ass!
It's pretty cool that the car has picked up 1.25 seconds in the 1/8 mile from when it was completely stock. I know exactly what the gain has been. And it's actually a little more than that even, as I raced it (when it was 100% stock) in early October, at night last year, so the DA would have been lower than the runs I took this past weekend.
I've done the whole rear suspension, UPR lowers, and the rest is all BMR stuff. Everything except the support brace has been replaced. Strange adj shocks/struts, too. Lowering brackets and using the first hole.
Sounds like you have the car pretty well dialed in already with a nice combination of performance, drivetrain, and suspension mods.
Your car performs very well at the track and should still be civilized enough for daily driver use on the street. The best of both worlds.
At this point I'd just enjoy it as it is; maybe upgrade the front brakes later on if you're still running stock.
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