2008 Mustang Gt with 18" wheel lug nut size and torque - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009 Thread Starter
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2008 Mustang Gt with 18" wheel lug nut size and torque

Hey all,
I recently did my first autocross and came in 2nd in my class which I'm very happy about. However, it brought some things to my attention.

What is the lug nut size? I used a 21 mm but I tried an english size (forget which, may have been 13/16) and it worked as well. What is the actual size of the lug nut?

Second, what is the factory torque spec for the lug nuts? I did 90 ft-lbs for the race. Tech told me that is a safe level.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009
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I know mine is 13/16 so i would have to say 13/16 or 20-21mm as you used. Although I dont torque mine so i cant answer that question sorry.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009
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21mm and 100 ft-lbs.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009
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We use a 13/16 and torque the lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2009
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Why is everything else on our cars metric and the lug nuts are SAE?

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-14-2009
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Per Owners manual.

WHEEL LUG NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque at 500 miles (800 km)
after any wheel disturbance (tire rotation, changing a flat tire, wheel
removal, etc.).

Bolt size Wheel lug nut torque*
1⁄2 x 20 100 (lb.ft.) 135(N*m)

* Torque specifications are for nut and bolt threads free of dirt and
rust. Use only Ford recommended replacement fasteners.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011
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Wheel nuts stick in the socket

Like the person who began this thread, I also autocross a Mustang but mine is s 2011 GT. I am having a problem with the wheel nuts. After I tighten or loosen them, they stick in my two Sears Craftsman 13/16" deep sockets (one has a 6-sided opening and the other has a 24- sided opening). The nuts even tend to stick when I just attach the deep socket to them without even tightening or loosening them. What can I do to make the sockets less grabby? FYI, 13/16ths seems to be the right size (as opposed to metric). The socket is a good fit over the nut. I have been changing autocross wheels on many different cars over many years but I've never experienced this problem before.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Second Mustang View Post
Like the person who began this thread, I also autocross a Mustang but mine is s 2011 GT. I am having a problem with the wheel nuts. After I tighten or loosen them, they stick in my two Sears Craftsman 13/16" deep sockets (one has a 6-sided opening and the other has a 24- sided opening). The nuts even tend to stick when I just attach the deep socket to them without even tightening or loosening them. What can I do to make the sockets less grabby? FYI, 13/16ths seems to be the right size (as opposed to metric). The socket is a good fit over the nut. I have been changing autocross wheels on many different cars over many years but I've never experienced this problem before.
I bought a Craftsman 13/16 deep impact and use a cordless impact to get the off ... No problems with sticking.

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I just changed the brakes on my 06 Gt. I torqued the LN at 125ftlbs. is that too much?
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How in the Heck do I put pic of my car on here??????

How in the Heck do I put pic of my car on here. can someone help
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I have a Craftsman deep 13/16" socket and a 2" extension that seldom get separated. It's a six-point socket, which makes a difference.

The second thing I did when I got each of my cars was to replace the Ford lug nuts with McGard items. Seems to me the Ford ones have a soft cover that distorts and could cause the jamming. No such trouble with the McGards.

When I red-Plasti-dipped the fender liners on the black car I also sprayed three coats on the outside of the socket. That seems to offer a bit of protection for the wheels when I get to flailing around with a torque wrench. Makes the socket easier to find in the tool bag, as well.

It's well to remember the torque specs are for clean, dry (not lubricated) fasteners and seats; if they are dirty the readings are not reliable; if lubed, reliably low. That is to say, if you torque your lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs on lubed threads or seats, the actual stretching forces will be greater than the design specs for the fasteners. Somewhere there is a chart that shows what lubed readings correspond to dry readings, but I have lost the location.

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I use a 13/16 on my stocks and I torque from 100 to 110 ft lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darealbigdady View Post
How in the Heck do I put pic of my car on here. can someone help
Sent you a PM hope it helps out. Just go to your control panel (upper left)
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