Hood scoop install. Question - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Hood scoop install. Question

So my hood pins came in and my hood scoop should be coming any time. As i'm checking over everything I need. I noticed Roush recommends using a "3M 4298 Adhesion Promoter." So my question is should i hunt this down? Or just skip it?


Now if anyone can explain why it is that the only drill bit i'm missing is the one that is needed?

07 Mustang GT Metallic Alloy.
FRPP CAI. SLP Loudmouths.
Roush Front Bumper w/ chin spoiler, Roush Hood scoop, Scott Drake Hood pins, Roush 1/4 window louvers, Billet fuel door.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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tape sucks. adhesive promoter dont work.


clean hood well
prep paint scoop

then what i did, on the very inner part of the scoop, put a THIN line of gorilla glue.


she holds strong.


my tape peeled, if water gets under it forget it.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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Don't skip the adhesion promoter. The big thing is making sure the hood is clean and free of any contaminants. You should be able to get adhesion promoter from any auto parts store.
My scoop uses the tape and it's been on for 5 years with no problems.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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go to home depot and buy some wider 3m double sided tape. buy the stuff with the red backing that's made for outdoors. gorilla glue might help too, and dont tighten the bolts too much or the gaping will be uneven. i installed mine once and did a poopy job and ended up taking it all off and doing it again later, so make sure to take your time and do it right the first time.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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I would not use Gorilla Glue. It's a good product but you shouldn't need it. The adhesion promoter helps ensure a good bonding surface. All wax and other stuff will be removed. Your tape should hold just fine. My quarter window louvers have been on for 4 years and there's no hint of them coming off. If you want a wider tape then get it. But you shouldn't need the glue.

I agree with being careful how tight you tighten the bolts for the scoop. You need to maintain even pressure.

Make sure the surface is nice and warm in addition to being clean. This makes a difference. Likewise, the surface should also be dry, and kept dry for a few days afterwards while the tape fully sets.

Bottom line, just follow your directions to the letter.

Good luck.

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Mods: Midwest Auto Gear Engine Plenum Cover, Sequential Taillights, Demolet Tunable CAI & SCT Tune, CDC Quarter Window Louvers, Billett Aluminum Interior Items, 8" Shorty Antenna, Powder Coated Valve Covers, Braided Hoses, Flowmaster AT, California Dreamin' Hood, CDC Classic Chin Spoiler, Honeycomb Rear Decklid Blackout Panel, 35% Window Tints, SHR Lower Grill Inserts
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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the promotor is more to prep the plastic part for the tape. ive had good results from the tape. the roush scoop uses tape and bolts. my cdc louves would take a air chisel to get them off. heres a scoop install post i did, and the scoop will come with some alcohol and promotor.3m adhesive remover from the auto parts is great for removing wax
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...all-part1.html

05 V6 auto, "The V6inator" torch red, base, amustangrocksleather padded leather armrest, shift boot and e-brake cover
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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Use the adhesion promoter. But do wipe it down with some alcohol fist then the adhesion promoter.


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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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what kind of hood pins did you get? :?:

05 V6 auto, "The V6inator" torch red, base, amustangrocksleather padded leather armrest, shift boot and e-brake cover
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010
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alcohol, adhesion promotor, automatic center punch and temp above 50 degrees. The warmer the better for 3M tape curing.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrayPony View Post
alcohol, adhesion promotor, automatic center punch and temp above 50 degrees. The warmer the better for 3M tape curing.
Excellent advice! Don't do it if it's too cold outside.

1965 Mustang Coupe
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrayPony View Post
alcohol, adhesion promotor, automatic center punch and temp above 50 degrees. The warmer the better for 3M tape curing.
Haha. Yea I m already checking the weather religiously waiting for a nice day out. It was in the 50s today but rained all day also. High of 30s and a few highs in 20s for rest of week.

Gives me time to figure out a way to avoid the 200 dollars for shipping and handling on a front bumper though!


Thanks for all the advice everyone.




Oh! Hood pins are from Scott Drake, shiped from shelby automotive, and ordered from hillbank! Can't wait to put them on either. (Wish I had a heated garage)

07 Mustang GT Metallic Alloy.
FRPP CAI. SLP Loudmouths.
Roush Front Bumper w/ chin spoiler, Roush Hood scoop, Scott Drake Hood pins, Roush 1/4 window louvers, Billet fuel door.
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Hey guys. I figured this would be the best thread to post my problem in so here it it is. I've been having the hardest time keeping the driver's side skirt for my street scene body kit to stay in place. The passenger side kit holds up perfectly fine. I have tried numerous times to re-install the skirt with double sided tape with no success, even when using the adhesion promoter and following the instructions to the letter. It holds up fine for about a week but then slowly starts to come apart again. Is there some sort of professional epoxy or something that body shops use? Here is a pic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lon86 View Post
Hey guys. I figured this would be the best thread to post my problem in so here it it is. I've been having the hardest time keeping the driver's side skirt for my street scene body kit to stay in place. The passenger side kit holds up perfectly fine. I have tried numerous times to re-install the skirt with double sided tape with no success, even when using the adhesion promoter and following the instructions to the letter. It holds up fine for about a week but then slowly starts to come apart again. Is there some sort of professional epoxy or something that body shops use? Here is a pic
Might want to look at drilling & pop riveting it on there.

1965 Mustang Coupe
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Quote:
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Might want to look at drilling & pop riveting it on there.
How exactly do I go about doing this?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lon86 View Post
How exactly do I go about doing this?
Not entirely sure. Would need to see a pic from the bottom.

1965 Mustang Coupe
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