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Oil, God it's just oil!

2K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  JBert 
#1 ·
Valvoline synpower
Castrol magnatec
Castrol edge
Mobil1
Royal purple
Quaker state full syn
Pennzoil platinum

OMG I am going absolutely crazy with all the options!!!!

I went down to Napa today to pick up a new oil filter P/N 1372. And I was going to pick up some Mobil1 because I had finally made the decision to switch from a Motorcraft synthetic blend based on all of the things I have been reading here on the forum. I walk in and I get talking to the guy behind the counter who has been working at this particular NAPA store for 35 years (not corporate owned it is privately owned by a family that lives here in town). He was talking to me about the Valvoline synthetic oil, they make Napa brand oil for their full synthetic I was wondering if anyone here can give me the rundown on the best oil to put in my GT. I have never used full synthetic before so I'm not really sure which one is the "best". Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
Have a look at this site - days and days of reading about oil and filters etc.
Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site


I just buy name brand synthetic like Castrol, QS, Mobil 1, etc. and change it more often than recommended along with a WIX filter. I had a 96 Jeep with 240,000 miles on it and it didn't burn oil between changed so something must have been OK with my method.
 
#4 ·
Yep, like you said, it's just oil. The Valvoline or the NAPA or the Mobil-1 all would be fine. If you really want to know what is "best" you can read all the test data that is out there; but bottom line is you really don't need "best" you just need "pretty good."

Personally, I like Mobil 1 Extended Performance because it is a true synthetic and available at Walmart for about $28/5 quarts. Works for me.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for all the info. Was set to pull the trigger on a case of Mobil1 (EXPENSIVE AS HE**) but after reading this just gonna with the NAPA brand (Valvoline) full syn at $4.19 a quarter told me he'd do better if I bought a case to do both Mustangs. Thanks yall!
 
#6 ·
this is a silly and very aggressive argument since the dawn of cars. you have on one hand the non-automotive oil gurus stating their oil synthetics is better. then you have the OEM saying all you need is their brand, which is full syn, half syn or just dyno oil. stick to the viscosity of the oil the oem states, the oil is up to you IMHO
 
#7 ·
The OEM oil goes to the lowest bidder that meets the specification. This includes store brand names.

Mobil1 is about $26 for a 5 quart jug. Amsoil is better, but change at 5000 miles and don't look back.

Any of today's oil at 5000 miles is better than NEW oil 20 years ago!:laugh2:
 
#8 ·
Agreed. I stay away from house brands from Walmart or other stores unless you can verify it's origin. The Napa brand as you say is made by Valvoline so would probably a be a "good enough" oil and because it is synthetic, is probably better than the other Syn Blends. Get a good filter (anything but Fram they say) and change both more frequently than recommended and you're good to go. Qualified of course with "IMO".
From what I have read, synthetics provide better cold starts, and it's better the colder it gets outside because of the pump-ability at startup. But then that opens up lots of discussion too. I justify the more expensive synthetics over dino oil buy changing it myself amongst other things.


I watch for sales and compare to Costco who sells 5 quarts for about $32 in Canadian Pesos which is what other synthetics sell for when they are on sale. Regular price for 5 quarts of most name brand synthetics is about $50 here. Then there is Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline etc - they are much more costly and not worth the premium (again IMO).
 
#9 ·
Thanks for everybody's input!

So I noticed since I switched over to the synthetic and it is getting colder. I have noticed that I have some engine "noise" on startup. I did not have that with the synthetic blends. Anybody have any suggestions on how to stop the noise?
 
#11 ·
I have always used additives with my oil changes. I have a 1996 F150 XTL 4x4 with 267,000 miles that still runs great and doesn't use oil between changes. I used Slick50 the whole time to help with cold starts.

My advice: change your oil every 3,000 miles unless you use an extended life filter - regardless of whether you use synthetic or not. Use a good additive for the startup period. Many use magnetic drain plugs or a big magnet on the oil pan to help catch metal filings and reduce wear.

My current ride had MotorCraft oil and filter when I got it. I switched to synthetic and now to Royal Purple. I swear my car is happier now with the purple and a Mobil1 extended filter.
 
#12 ·
Valvoline synpower
Castrol magnatec
Castrol edge
Mobil1
Royal purple
Quaker state full syn
Pennzoil platinum

OMG I am going absolutely crazy with all the options!!!!
Well, you could just keep it simple by using the Motorcraft 5W-20 that Ford recommends with a Motorcraft filter and change every 5000 miles. ;)
 
#14 ·
Switch back?
Yup. Changing full synthetic oil every 3000 miles is equivalent to pouring money down the drain, and modern oils already have the additives an engine needs so there's no need to buy further additives (unless you like pouring even more money down the drain).

My current ride had MotorCraft oil and filter when I got it. I switched to synthetic and now to Royal Purple. I swear my car is happier now with the purple and a Mobil1 extended filter.
Are you sure that isn't just a placebo effect from having doubled the cost of an oil change?
 
#15 ·
Oil oh God its oil the story to end the stories. Here it comes and every thing is 100% true. Are y'all ready!? Minds are going to be blown.
My 95 GT went over 300k mi w out a break down or any leaks using Castrol GTX 10w30 and a Fram filter. It spent 90% of its life in a area where there were more dirt roads than paved. If y'all promise not to tell I'll let y'all know my secret, CHANGE REGULARLY. The cats out of the bag.
Now with a fresh motor and 100+ hp later I'm rockin the Fram and the GTX. So yes, oil is oil as long as you maintain your vehicle.
Do y'all remeber the days when K&N filters and Royal Purple claimed a 25hp gain each? Now they're marketing scheme is that they're better for the environment.


Pickers- One step of above a hoarder.
 
#16 ·
Yes, sure not the placebo effect. I have found that an additive helps on start up and those times you have to leave in a hurry. The purple has additives already in it and costs about the same as the other synthetics here.
 
#17 ·
What was your testing method, seat of the pants? Or are did you start with a fresh engine and do a months worth of "cold starts and leave in a hurry's" with conventional and tear down and inspect? Followed by another fresh engine and doing the same testing procedure with Royal P?


Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue.
 
#18 ·
From UOAs I have seen off bobistheoilguy Pennzoil platinum seems to out perform Mobil 1.

Trying to decide which oil is right for you depends on your driving habits and how often you change it. Typically they say full Synthetic wont benefit you one bit if you are religious about changing your oil and filter every 3k. Personally I run synthetic and have more peace of mind with it. I do change it every 3k only because I beat the snot out of my car and when I say beat it I abuse it to no end on the street and with some test and tune days at the track resulting in almost 30 passes hot lapping and just feel a Syn oil wont break down as easily doing that kind of stuff like a dino oil might. This is in an 09 GT. I usually run Mobil 1 but as said will be switching to Pennzoil platinum based on the UOAs I have seen. Another nice thing about synthetic is it has better cold start protection then dino oil, Although they say dino oil will pump just fine in winter. Go with any brand oil and keep up with the changes and your engine will last forever honestly. If you daily drive it normally and plan on changing it every 3k just go with a dino oil and it will be fine. Old cars are out there with 300k with nothing but cheap oil and filters and still going strong.
 
#21 ·
Heh . . . if it wasn't for Cheers! (and for having tossed back a few in that downstairs bar back around 1969) I'd probably still be trying to come up with a username, instead of taking my own back. All in good fun :laugh2:, like it's been when I go back there.


Norm.
 
#22 ·
i use mobil synthetic because it has good cold weather resistance. It can get mighty cold in Canada. Never had a problem and change somewhat regularly. Im sure all the other brands are good too, or at least the synthetics. I won't lie i tend to drive a tad further with it than the ford recommended 5000km per change. i usually change around 8-10k KM. At 5000km, the oil was usually still gold coming out. Im pretty sure ford recommends synthetic for all their motors. Im not recommending anything, this is just personal experience. I put 100000km on my v6 and had no notable issues, and i have put 60000km on my gt, and its driving great too. Oil consumption is well within spec, burning well less than a liter between changes. I do not track or race these cars.

For me it comes down to how the oil performs in the cold. I remember that some mr lube guy told me that there cheap sh*t was fine. Well he was wrong. The engine sounded like it was dying in the cold for 10 secs while starting dead cold. Granted engines are designed for cold starts, but i had never heard sounds like that come from an engine. It wasn't even crazy cold, about -20*C. It can get below -30*c here, and lower if you go up north. I had a cold start my v6 in -52*C before windchill. Not an issue with mobil 1. i didn't even have the car plugged in. Sh*t, i think mars is warmer than that.

TLDR notes.
-i would use synthetic in cold weather, synthetic in Canada year round....you desert dwellers, i don't think i would care. Buy whats on sale. Use high grade oil if racing.
 
#23 ·
Thanks everyone for chiming in. Think I am going to jump around a bit between oil changes to see how they all perform. From the NAPA brand (now) to mobil, to royal, and so on. Anyone else done that before?
So far I have no complaints with the NAPA brand but I'm about to turn 130k and want it to go for a while.
 
#24 ·
. . . . Think I am going to jump around a bit between oil changes to see how they all perform. From the NAPA brand (now) to mobil, to royal, and so on. . . . . .
I doubt you will be able to tell the difference . . . but please let us know how it goes / what you find out.
 
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