How is it that most gauges work? I know there is one that was mentioned, Interceptor gauge, which basically plugs into the ODB2 port to get all it's ratings. So would it be true that our cars computer can somehow calculate boost pressure if we have a supercharger installed? Or is there other equipment that needs to be installed to get these readings? Their website wasn't exactly going into those details.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
The Ford gauges are electrical gauges that use sending units. They are not the most accurate. The Interceptor might read it better then the stock gauges, but if you have boost, then get a boost gauge, I dont think the Interceptor gauge will read boost though. If I had a boosted car, one of the most important things I would monitor would be fuel pressure not boost. Auto-meter sells a fuel pressure gauge for about $150, and one for about $60. The $150 one uses a mechanical reading then changes it into an electrical signal so nothing but wiring going to ur gauge. The cheaper one send fuel to a diaphragm then you use antifreeze from the diaphragm to the actual gauge. That is a pain in the a$$ to get all the air out. I used the more expensive one, and it was extremely accurate.
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93 triple white Limited Edition. 17" Cobra "R"s, Cobra "R" hood, 180* thermo, Steeda Tri-Axe, white faced gauges, Phantom monster tach, 73mm calipers, with slotted fronts rotors, all Alpine stereo equipment, so, still stock (for now)...
"The only easy day was yesterday"
"That which does not kill you only makes you stronger"
"The early bird gets the worm, the 2nd mouse gets the cheese"
"Freedom isn't Free"
Most individual gauges use their own, dedicated sensor. Most dedicated fuel gauges have a sensor that plugs into your fuel rail.
Yup. You have to buy an adapter to fit the fuel gauge to ur fuel rail, the same goes if you were to replace ur temp gauge.
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93 triple white Limited Edition. 17" Cobra "R"s, Cobra "R" hood, 180* thermo, Steeda Tri-Axe, white faced gauges, Phantom monster tach, 73mm calipers, with slotted fronts rotors, all Alpine stereo equipment, so, still stock (for now)...
"The only easy day was yesterday"
"That which does not kill you only makes you stronger"
"The early bird gets the worm, the 2nd mouse gets the cheese"
"Freedom isn't Free"
wide band is WAY more important than fuel pressure. By the time you see a pressure drop you will already be way lean.
If you can only buy one gauge buy a wideband air fuel gauge.
wide band is WAY more important than fuel pressure. By the time you see a pressure drop you will already be way lean.
If you can only buy one gauge buy a wideband air fuel gauge.
I could not possibly agree more. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. They are so important I have two, one for each bank.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I could not possibly agree more. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. They are so important I have two, one for each bank.
Do those sensors only last so long?
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
It's a standard Bosch sensor, same or similar to those that come stock, So yeah, they last. I've heard others say they do not, in fact I remember some guy saying they only last 10,000 miles. I have 50,000+ on mine and it still works fine.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
How is it that most gauges work? I know there is one that was mentioned, Interceptor gauge, which basically plugs into the ODB2 port to get all it's ratings. So would it be true that our cars computer can somehow calculate boost pressure if we have a supercharger installed? Or is there other equipment that needs to be installed to get these readings? Their website wasn't exactly going into those details.
ODB port gauges can only give you readings on things measured by the computer as if the car was stock. If you have a stock supercharger (eg GT500), you can read boost -- aftermarket, nope. The Interceptor reads ODB plus gives you two analog inputs. I've added a separate boost sensor and wideband o2 sensor to my Interceptor.
For those wondering about the Interceptor, here's a link:
2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
wide band is WAY more important than fuel pressure. By the time you see a pressure drop you will already be way lean.
If you can only buy one gauge buy a wideband air fuel gauge.
Good point. I forgot about rich/lean sensors. The problem with those is they only read at WOT, right?
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93 triple white Limited Edition. 17" Cobra "R"s, Cobra "R" hood, 180* thermo, Steeda Tri-Axe, white faced gauges, Phantom monster tach, 73mm calipers, with slotted fronts rotors, all Alpine stereo equipment, so, still stock (for now)...
"The only easy day was yesterday"
"That which does not kill you only makes you stronger"
"The early bird gets the worm, the 2nd mouse gets the cheese"
"Freedom isn't Free"
Good point. I forgot about rich/lean sensors. The problem with those is they only read at WOT, right?
Their problem is that they only tell you if you're rich or lean, not how much. You may be .1 point lean which is OK, or 5 points lean which is blown engine. They are only a light show.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
The wide-band A/F reads all the time. You mount the sensor in the exhaust before the cat.
I have the Auto-meter Phantom r/l gauge, I haven't installed it yet. U need a wide band o2 to run what u have right? Mine just piggy backs off the o2 sensor n only reads at WOT I believe.
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93 triple white Limited Edition. 17" Cobra "R"s, Cobra "R" hood, 180* thermo, Steeda Tri-Axe, white faced gauges, Phantom monster tach, 73mm calipers, with slotted fronts rotors, all Alpine stereo equipment, so, still stock (for now)...
"The only easy day was yesterday"
"That which does not kill you only makes you stronger"
"The early bird gets the worm, the 2nd mouse gets the cheese"
"Freedom isn't Free"
2005 Mustang GT... Need help with boost gauges 
