I hear you … did you replace the whole unit or just the adjustable arm? I'm see in the service manual it comes out as a unit. It shows the front nut and bolt that need to be replaced, but not upper nut/bolt that connect to the bracket.
Went to a shop I just heard about. Guy states the car will have been aligned at another shop after for $60 … says the cast and camber will be off. WTF- I once again said it was a rear upper adjustable control arm. I left w/ a headache.
I asked for the UCA to be installed and then check the pinion angle … that's it!!
Oh ya, he said the wheel hop is from the 4.10's failing Why me, NFW is that it.
Went to a shop I just heard about. Guy states the car will have been aligned at another shop after for $60 … says the cast and camber will be off. WTF- I once again said it was a rear upper adjustable control arm. I left w/ a headache.
I asked for the UCA to be installed and then check the pinion angle … that's it!!
UCA has nothing to do with caster or camber on the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny1213
Oh ya, he said the wheel hop is from the 4.10's failing Why me, NFW is that it.
UCA has nothing to do with caster or camber on the rear.
Don't think so.
That what sucks around here. ASE certified … why's he talking about alignment of the front end. I just watched that video again of the guy setting the pinion angle after installing fixed lowers and adjustable upper. He did it all in about 2 minutes w/o a $60 front end alignment … arrgh, arrgh, arrgh …
If you install an UCA yourself it is a little challenging. CHE says to partially drop the gas tank so you can get the bracket out. Steeda says that you can get the front bolt in without dropping the bracket/gas tank. They are both right, but the CHE is route is definetly the easier method despite how scary dropping the gas tank is.
BTW - I've seen both the Steeda and CHE UCAs and like the CHE better (although they will both work just fine).
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
If you install an UCA yourself it is a little challenging. CHE says to partially drop the gas tank so you can get the bracket out. Steeda says that you can get the front bolt in without dropping the bracket/gas tank. They are both right, but the CHE is route is definetly the easier method despite how scary dropping the gas tank is.
BTW - I've seen both the Steeda and CHE UCAs and like the CHE better (although they will both work just fine).
I'm only doing the arm … no bracket. Well, someone is doing it hat has the proper angle finders. -2 is for standard … what's the number for autos??????
F-up that a fixed upper is for lowered and adj. is for non.
I'm only doing the arm … no bracket. Well, someone is doing it hat has the proper angle finders. -2 is for standard … what's the number for autos??????
F-up that a fixed upper is for lowered and adj. is for non.
The pinion angle question is a bit of a can of worms. Most people say -2 degrees - same for autos and manuals, however there is differences in the way it is supposed to be measured. I am told that the v6 Stang has a 1 piece shaft and the stock pinion angle is -0.5 degrees.
Check out this thread, post 47 to be specific. Travelers provided Ford tech pages on measuring and setting pinion angle.
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
Yea my car is not lowered , and I changed the fixed CHE UCA to the adjustable. I should have never got the fixed UCA, with the power house D/S and relocation brackets it threw my pinion angle way off. I am going to the dealer where my friend will help me set the pinion angle on Saturday. The hardest part is changing the UCA,it took me an hour. The first time it was 2 hours. Some things do get better.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH
I'm only doing the arm … no bracket. Well, someone is doing it hat has the proper angle finders. -2 is for standard … what's the number for autos??????
F-up that a fixed upper is for lowered and adj. is for non.
-2* is good for a street/part-time racer. -2* to -4* for a full-on track-only car.
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Why me, NFW is that it.
