Is this something a mechanically able person can do with regular tools and is it old pads out new pads in? Or do I go to my reputable dealer for the 30,000 oil change and check, rotate the tires and have them just do it?
Thanks for your anticipated opinion.
I haven't done it on a new Mustang, but if your rotors are good, all you have to do is push the pistons back far enough to get the new installed pads over the rotor on installation. Don't forget to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir to prevent it spilling when you push the pistons back. Top off the reservoir and be sure to pump up the brakes before you attempt driving.
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Frank
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2008 GT Premium, Vapor Metallic, 5-speed stick w/MGW, GT500 front end, spoiler and replica wheels. Sequentials, GTA's, Fitch catalyst, Steeda UDP's, Bullitt CAI- can't wipe the smile off my face.
Id almost go with new rotors as cheap as they are.
duckbubbles said it best. easy to do..very old school style
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Saleen S/C 3.2 pulley tuned by JDM Engineering, GT500 pumps, CHE goodies on the rear, 4.10's, KOOKS/ high flow catted X pipe with PYPES Violators, Spydershaft, TCI 3500 stall, PA deep tranny pan. Meziere w/p,M&H 325/45/17 DRs.
future mods.... a 3.0 pulley
There is a link to the service manuals up in the "Sticky threads". remove/replace the calipers is covered. Duckbubbles makes good points about the fluid resevoir. I've not done my brakes yet but have done many on other vehicles. My personal challenge is getting the piston retracted enough to get the caliper back over the rotor (with the pads in place). I've got a big 'ole C-clamp that I've used for this. MickMack also makes a good point about rotors. They are usually pretty cheap to buy and most parts houses don't seem to have prople that know how to turn a rotor carefully (without taking off anything less than .25"). Before tearing into it I'd recommend spraying everything down with a brake cleaner and then the hose to minimize the dust. Ususally there is a little tube of blue goo in the box with new pads. A thin film goes between the new pads and where they contact the caliper. It's anti-squeal and makes the brakes quiet.
Page 4 of the Tech Links has some extracts from the service manual that covers brake service (thanks to STL) http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...h-links-4.html
If you have the 14" Brembos it is eaisier to change the pads.. There are two pins that go across the back of the caliper. One on the top and one on the bottom. They hold a spring clip that holds the pads in. Use a pin punch to knock out the pins remove the spring clip and the pads pull straight out. Use a long screwdriver to wedge the pistons back so you can install the new pads. GA
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05 GT Techco 7psi, 428hp/395tq, Tillman tune, 18x9.5 GT500 wheels, 14" Brembos, Steeda Front strut pads and front relo kit, BMR lowering springs, Tokicko D-Specs, GT500 Front lower control arms, BMR adj upper third link, BMR adj PHB, BMR rear relo brackets, boxed stock phb brace, Hooker super comp LT with Pypes HF cats, Stillen adj front & rear sway bars, Steeda sport shifter.
Replacing 2006 Mustang GT Front Brake Pads 
