[KlrStng]

Well, the new intake came in today, and I had to replace the MAF extension that I modified originally with an unmodified one, then install the new setup. I tightened down the intake and the next step was to install the headlight, which can't be done when the intake is bolted in, so I had to take it back off and install the headlight. In my haste I forgot to take pictures, but I will snap some later of the bumper with the vent so you can see the difference.

Once I got the intake on, I got the bumper back on and the wheel wells and the wheels, and it all took 50 minutes, which left me in a hurry to get back to work (one hour lunch break). My first road test was on the way back to work.

The first intersection I came to I had to wait for some cars, then I pulled out, and it bogged bad under 2k rpm. I am thinking that maybe adaptive learning screwed it up a little when the wrong maf was on... As I drove it felt stronger and stronger. I got on it 2 times on the way in first and once in second and it pulls nicely, although not quite what I expected. Perhaps I had too much buildup and expected too much...

Then I got to work and smelled antifreeze, so I popped the hood and sure enough there is a leak. Hopefully its the only one, but some was coming out behind the engine, so either the hose that is leaking sprayed into the valley, or there is a leak under the manifold. That would suck, but given my luck so far, I wouldn't be surprised. When it cools down I will re-adjust the one clamp that is leaking (factory clamp), and hope that cures it.

I took one more quick road test and went through 1st to 2nd. It is way weaker under 3k rpm, and that has me worried. I did go from 4.10s to 3.73's, and the tune is different when out of boost (had Brenspeed tune before), so perhaps that is it. It also seemed to misfire a couple times in one of the 3rd gear pulls, around 5500 rpm. I gapped the plugs to .035, so I hope it isn't spark blowout. Maybe some coils are in my future..

Tonight I will install the new gauge pod, although I only have the one gauge right now. BTW, my AF is about 14.5 at idle or cruising, and in the 11s at WOT... I see some odd stuff sometimes, and it seems to correspond with the bogging, so I might be hitting rich occasionally, which is odd. Also, I have no way to verify the BAP is working right, so it's possible I don't have the pressure at the top end, although in first and second I didn't get any misfires or bogging on the top end.

A whole lot of testing is required, and I hope to God I don't have to pull the supercharger and manifold off to fix a coolant leak.

[travelers]

It sounds like you working through the problems.

You get a much more accurate AF readings before the cats.

[KlrStng]

Well, I drove for about an hour around town, and even took it on a small stretch of interstate. Interstate was impressive.. pulls like mad from 60 to 100.

I think the one coolant leak was all I had, I don't smell hot coolant any more. I do still smell burning plastic or oil, which I would have thought would go away by now. There were a few drops of oil on the passenger manifold that burned off when I first started it, and there isn't any smoke now. I figured the smell was all the new stuff just burning off any chemical residues and such, but now its been 37 miles of in town driving, and still there.

I need a boost gauge though, I don't think I am making boost until after 3500 rpm.. It not only doesnt pull below that rpm, it actually feels like a V6 now.. Granted, I am used to the 4.10's as opposed to the 3.73, but still, I expected way more power.. From 5k to 6200 it pulls nice, but I don't think i am at the boost level I should be until that point.. I would have expected this from a centri, not a twin screw. I think I am gonna break down and pick up a boost gauge locally that will work as a temporary deal, then sell it. I want to match my AEM AF gauge on the others, but now I feel the need to know where I am at, so I will probably break down and get the chrome bezel one they have in stock at the only performance shop we have.

At really light throttle it is surging too, and I don't know if that is normal or not. I ran in both 3rd and 4th at 65 on the highway with cruise on and it ran perfect, no surges or anything, and when I got on it, it pulled great all the way to 100. If I go to like 35 in third and let off the throttle, it surges a little too, and the AF meter is all over the place.

Hopefully I get the programmer back tomorrow and I can reload the program in case the adaptive learning messed up the tune a little when the wrong MAF sensor and housing was on. I don't know, maybe I still have a vacuum leak somewhere, or maybe there is another problem I don't see.

[travelers]

So your running your car on the old cali tune? Not a good idea. Thats probable part of the problem.

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by travelers

So your running your car on the old cali tune? Not a good idea. Thats probable part of the problem.

No, the tune they sent me originally was for the cannister filter and the 90mm MAF setup. That was why it was running so lean. AFTER I sent the programmer back (like 10 minutes after UPS left), they emailed me and told me that they have given me the wrong tune and to not send the programmer back.

Right now I am at 11.2-11.6 at WOT on AF ratio, and about 14.4 at cruise or idle. Tune seems to be spot on, but since I ran for a time on this tune with the wrong MAF and a MAFia hooked up, I questions whether the ECU did some adaptive learning and caused some problems, so when the programmer gets back, I will flash again just to make sure. They aren't changing the tune though.

Right now, my second gear from idle to about 2k rpm feels like a v6, from 2k-4500 feels about like it did before the supercharger, and from 4500-6200 pulls harder, but not excessively so. For what should be a 200+ hp bump, that just isn't right. First is into 4k+ before I can blink anyway, and tires start to break loose at around 5500, but then I shift and it all goes away. You even hear the supercharger whine pitch up then down then up again.. like it is bogging or something. I don't know, something is just not right.. I hope a boost gauge gives me some clues..

[Preston951]

Man, sorry to hear about all these problems you're having.

Don't worry, things will get figured out, and you perfectly knowledgeable about what you're doing!

That's pretty weird though... From other KB install threads most people have been spot on from the start.

This guy didn't really go step bye step, but if you read through his posts he talks about the install.
Kenne Bell Install - MustangForums.com

By the way, you're running HT0 plugs, right?

[KlrStng]

Yeah, HT0 gapped at .035.

This morning the car ran PERFECT. I don't understand it... My first thought was heat soak, and maybe the intercooler isn't getting water or something and then a ping, followed by the timing being retarded by the computer. I don't know..

Coming to work this morning I was feeling huge boost at 2k in any gear, and it was nice.. if it ran like this all the time I would be happy. It is about 50*F outside, and it was 80* last night...

I am gonna try to get through to KB tech support to see if they have any answers, and try to borrow a boost gauge for the weekend from a friend.

[travelers]

Thats good to hear about the tune actually for what you have now. I'd hate to see you run lean and pop a rod.

Something doesn't sound right with it feeling like a v6. Keep bugging KB.....

[KlrStng]

Just talked to KB again.. They like my theory that I have an air bubble in the intercooler and it's not working.. Without having an intake air temp gauge, I can't tell for sure, but the symptoms point to heat soak issues. This morning was a night and day difference from last night, and the only difference is it was cool outside and the engine was cold. By night and day I would say like 100-150 hp difference. I am going to hook a garden hose to the intercooler line this weekend and flush water through it for a while to get any air out, then pump in 70/30 coolant to flush out the tap water and try again.

Also, the adaptive learning IS indeed enabled with their tune, so the time that I had the wrong MAF on it could have screwed up my tune a little.

The light throttle surging is normal as the engine goes from vacuum to boost and back again under very light throttle.. its the result of the butterflys opening and closing slightly at very light throttle.

The tech didn't think I have a vacuum leak since I am not experiencing the other symptoms like high idle or throwing codes.

Oh, and the tech also mentioned that the 3v 4.6 has a problem where the more power you make, the longer the hesitation is when you punch the throttle.. He said they have been trying to program that out since '05 but nobody has had luck.. Some inherent problem in the design or something.

[Black Baby II]

Been following you progress, keep at it and you will get it all together. Small suggestion on the coolant flush, park the car at an inclince if possible to let our friend Mr. Gravity help.

I'm sure you will be very happy once all is worked out.

[BRENSTANG03]

other than than having you small problems,was the kit easy to put in? going to order mine today.

[KlrStng]

Originally Posted by BRENSTANG03

other than than having you small problems,was the kit easy to put in? going to order mine today.

It was easy, just time consuming. If you have ALL the tools and supplies you need, and you are just doing the kit and plugs, then expect about 25-35 hours. If you are like me and have to run to the store for things like silicone spray, coolant (3 gals of 50/50 and some distilled water), and a metric hex drive setup, then it will take longer. The valve covers added about 4-5 hours total to the install for me.

Tools you will need (A few of these of these I didn't have): Metric Hex set - preferably the ball type so you can angle in a little. You will need 4,5,6, and I think a 7 once. They give you a T-handle 5mm, but you can't torque with it. Good to have some regular hex wrenches on hand too, the single ones for the tight places. You will need at least 1 torque wrench, 2 if you can get them, inch-pound and foot-pound (I just divided inch-pound by 12 and used the ft-lb wrench). A razor knife with a sharp blade, Painters tape (bright color), an extra roll of electrical tape (get good stuff, not cheap), a sharpie for marking wires as you remove, make sure you have 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets handy, you will need them a lot. A pin crimping tool is required for one step, if you don't have one you can solder the pins on but I don't recommend that. Make sure you are prepared to jack your vehicle up and put stands under.

Just pay close attention to the instructions and take it slow, don't get ahead because chances are you will make it more difficult later. Don't tighten anything down unless it says so specifically. It is good to read the whole thing first to get an idea for what you will be doing. Helps in some steps where you do one thing then come back to it 100 steps later.

The only step I would do out of order is the washer reservoir - do it before you put the bumper back on. When you first pull the reservoir, drain it and pull the pump and silicone the rubber grommet into the new reservoir. Let it set up for at least 2 or 3 hours before installing the pump into it. It is out of the wayof any future steps so you can put it in any time after that.

If doing the plugs, get some penetrant and spray some in to each plug hole right after you get the car positioned, then after a couple hours, break them loose and spray more penetrant, then wait 5 mins and remove. If your car is lowered, get it on blocks so you can jack it up when needed. It is easier to reach everything when it is on the ground, and you will be working on the back firewall a lot, sometimes with it jacked up, so have a small stool handy that you can stand on to reach those places.

I could probably offer up more advice, but most of it is pretty common if you have worked under the hood a lot.

Couple more things come to mind, the heater core hoses have a clip on the very back of the connection, click the bottom one up (buried in the foam a little) and then push the top one down with a screwdriver or 90* pick, and then pull off. I had a hard time with that one. Also, when you are about to put the supercharger on the manifold, remove the fuel pressure sensor, it's in the way and will block you from positioning the supercharger unless it's removed. Finally, pull the battery and the platform it sits on completely out, it will make life easier, trust me.

One more piece of advice: Sort all the items out and group them according to how they are laid out in the instruction manual at the beginning. Identify all the bolts and nuts and washers now (helps to have a metric ruler handy) so you know which bolts to grab when the time comes. I pulled bolts from the wrong bags a few times, and even though I had the right bolts, there would be like 3 in one bag and 6 in another, and I would go to get the 6 and find 3, then have to hunt for the other 3. There is a logic to how they packaged, just one that doesn't make too much sense. Have lots of bench space open (or set up saw horses and a piece of plywood) to lay stuff out, there is a LOT of parts.

If you have any questions at all, email me or message me here.. (email is dkersten@2mco.com).

[Earl_the_Pearl]

This is like a soap opera; Days of our Mustangs. PLEASE be careful with the road tests until you get it running right.

Did you tell KB the whole world is watching?

[BRENSTANG03]

Originally Posted by KlrStng

It was easy, just time consuming. If you have ALL the tools and supplies you need, and you are just doing the kit and plugs, then expect about 25-35 hours. If you are like me and have to run to the store for things like silicone spray, coolant (3 gals of 50/50 and some distilled water), and a metric hex drive setup, then it will take longer. The valve covers added about 4-5 hours total to the install for me.

Tools you will need (A few of these of these I didn't have): Metric Hex set - preferably the ball type so you can angle in a little. You will need 4,5,6, and I think a 7 once. They give you a T-handle 5mm, but you can't torque with it. Good to have some regular hex wrenches on hand too, the single ones for the tight places. You will need at least 1 torque wrench, 2 if you can get them, inch-pound and foot-pound (I just divided inch-pound by 12 and used the ft-lb wrench). A razor knife with a sharp blade, Painters tape (bright color), an extra roll of electrical tape (get good stuff, not cheap), a sharpie for marking wires as you remove, make sure you have 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets handy, you will need them a lot. A pin crimping tool is required for one step, if you don't have one you can solder the pins on but I don't recommend that. Make sure you are prepared to jack your vehicle up and put stands under.

Just pay close attention to the instructions and take it slow, don't get ahead because chances are you will make it more difficult later. Don't tighten anything down unless it says so specifically. It is good to read the whole thing first to get an idea for what you will be doing. Helps in some steps where you do one thing then come back to it 100 steps later.

The only step I would do out of order is the washer reservoir - do it before you put the bumper back on. When you first pull the reservoir, drain it and pull the pump and silicone the rubber grommet into the new reservoir. Let it set up for at least 2 or 3 hours before installing the pump into it. It is out of the wayof any future steps so you can put it in any time after that.

If doing the plugs, get some penetrant and spray some in to each plug hole right after you get the car positioned, then after a couple hours, break them loose and spray more penetrant, then wait 5 mins and remove. If your car is lowered, get it on blocks so you can jack it up when needed. It is easier to reach everything when it is on the ground, and you will be working on the back firewall a lot, sometimes with it jacked up, so have a small stool handy that you can stand on to reach those places.

I could probably offer up more advice, but most of it is pretty common if you have worked under the hood a lot.

Couple more things come to mind, the heater core hoses have a clip on the very back of the connection, click the bottom one up (buried in the foam a little) and then push the top one down with a screwdriver or 90* pick, and then pull off. I had a hard time with that one. Also, when you are about to put the supercharger on the manifold, remove the fuel pressure sensor, it's in the way and will block you from positioning the supercharger unless it's removed. Finally, pull the battery and the platform it sits on completely out, it will make life easier, trust me.

One more piece of advice: Sort all the items out and group them according to how they are laid out in the instruction manual at the beginning. Identify all the bolts and nuts and washers now (helps to have a metric ruler handy) so you know which bolts to grab when the time comes. I pulled bolts from the wrong bags a few times, and even though I had the right bolts, there would be like 3 in one bag and 6 in another, and I would go to get the 6 and find 3, then have to hunt for the other 3. There is a logic to how they packaged, just one that doesn't make too much sense. Have lots of bench space open (or set up saw horses and a piece of plywood) to lay stuff out, there is a LOT of parts.

If you have any questions at all, email me or message me here.. (email is dkersten@2mco.com).

thats some good info,thanks man

[KlrStng]

Hehe.. days of our mustangs.. I like that..

Here's the latest: At lunch I stopped by my buddy's shop and borrowed a boost gauge (its actually one my brother gave him, but its 30psi and I want a 20), and he drove the mustang. His personal car is a Mercedes E55 AMG with a pully that gives him about 480 rwhp and about 525 lbft torque. The mercedes is 400 lbs heavier than the mustang vert (4200 dry) and comparitively my stang with the supercharger runs like a honda. We ran them back to back with him driving both times and we both agreed mine felt like it has about 330 hp.. So that confirmed that I am not crazy. It is about 80 out and the car was just warmed up from a 2 mile drive.

So I went home and pulled it into the garage and disconnected the return line from the intercooler, put a bucket under it and turned on the key. The pump is running but not a drop comes out of the return line, which means either the intercooler is airlocked or the pump is bad. At least this explains the problem!

Now I get to pull the bumper AGAIN tonight and pull the pump, check it, and if it's good, then flush the intercooler to get it working.

Some day I will have a supercharged Mustang that works...