I figured if the shop that did the vortech install screwed up that bad i wasn't going to give them another chance to screw it up even more. basic stuff, like putting in cooler plugs, proper clamps on the walbro fuel pump, installing the air filter correctly, putting the correct injectors in. The shop claims that they were the old style 39 lb injectors but they were fat and rubbing against the air intake, and when i looked at them they had three jet instead of the 4 jets that the 39lb injectors that replaced them. they also missed the part in the instructions that shows how to install the idler pulley if the blower has the 3.60 pully and they missed that. I am going to reposition it to the right spot tonight and see if that fixes the boost problem. I have corrected most every thing the first shop screwed up, cooler plugs, GT500 fuel pump, 39lb injectors, steeda tensioner, and tonight i will reposition the idler pulley. The only problem that has not been able to be trouble shot is the surging problem at low speeds. The only vortec authorized dealer around the New Orleans area was the one that put the blower on. the other two shops that have helped me work on my car that i recomend is dynospeed in memphis TN, and Stang Hi in Baton Rouge LA. both have a high reputation.
If that pulley is in the wrong spot you're probably getting a lot of belt slip.
Just repositioned my idler pulley and the boost climed faster and it pulled harder, however I didn't play with the TB, so i still had that surging or studdering at low speeds.
So you are getting surging at low speed? What throttle position? If its at light throttle, it is actually really common with superchargers. The slightest change in throttle position will cause the bypass valve to open slightly, pouring a bit of boost into the engine, and causing a slight jump in power, which eases off almost immediately, and the net result is the car surges. The problem is a slight bump or change in the road moves your foot ever so slightly and this happens. It takes getting used to.
KB eased this a little by putting an orifice in the vacuum line that controls their bypass valve. Slight changes don't affect it as much because the orifice is small.. like 1/64th of an inch, so it takes a larger change in vacuum to move the bypass.. If I get surging like that, I turn on the cruise control and it goes away, proving that it was my subtle foot movements, not a tune problem.
Of course, if you are thinking "surging" as in WOT and power is surging, that's a different story.
One thing I notice is if I am on a slightly bumpy road at WOT, the tone of the supercharger goes up and down as the weight of the car comes down on my tires, giving me more traction and the tone drops, then as the car springs back up the traction eases a little and the tone goes up again.. kind of wierd, but again just something that happens.
If your AF is all over the place and it is surging, then you probably have a vacuum leak and you are going lean, the ECU is pulling timing, then power drops and comes back as timing is advanced, then the vacuum leak causes lean again as power increases and timing goes again.. Meanwhile the AF gauge is all over the place...
I am just shooting in the dark of course.. "surging" is a broad term.. hehe
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
I figured if the shop that did the vortech install screwed up that bad i wasn't going to give them another chance to screw it up even more. basic stuff, like putting in cooler plugs, proper clamps on the walbro fuel pump.
WTF?? Ive never installed a vortech on a 05 and up, but are they putting these in the kits???? Hopefully you ditched this when you went to the GT500 pump.
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93 Cobra Supercharged 342 Vortech T-trim...all sorts of stuff, by Thrill Ride Unlimited Mt. Vernon Oh.
So you are getting surging at low speed? What throttle position? If its at light throttle, it is actually really common with superchargers. The slightest change in throttle position will cause the bypass valve to open slightly, pouring a bit of boost into the engine, and causing a slight jump in power, which eases off almost immediately, and the net result is the car surges. The problem is a slight bump or change in the road moves your foot ever so slightly and this happens. It takes getting used to.
KB eased this a little by putting an orifice in the vacuum line that controls their bypass valve. Slight changes don't affect it as much because the orifice is small.. like 1/64th of an inch, so it takes a larger change in vacuum to move the bypass.. If I get surging like that, I turn on the cruise control and it goes away, proving that it was my subtle foot movements, not a tune problem.
Of course, if you are thinking "surging" as in WOT and power is surging, that's a different story.
One thing I notice is if I am on a slightly bumpy road at WOT, the tone of the supercharger goes up and down as the weight of the car comes down on my tires, giving me more traction and the tone drops, then as the car springs back up the traction eases a little and the tone goes up again.. kind of wierd, but again just something that happens.
If your AF is all over the place and it is surging, then you probably have a vacuum leak and you are going lean, the ECU is pulling timing, then power drops and comes back as timing is advanced, then the vacuum leak causes lean again as power increases and timing goes again.. Meanwhile the AF gauge is all over the place...
I am just shooting in the dark of course.. "surging" is a broad term.. hehe
While on the dyno the AF was good, but it sounds like what you said in your first paragraph, but I don't know if cruise will work at 10 or 20 mph. I live on a military base and we have a lot of 10 and 20 mph zones. I'll look into that orfice thing. do you have any info that may help me find it. I have used almost a half can of either trying to see if i had an intake leak, and found non so far.
I guess it's posible, but the car has always done it (surging) after the blower, but did get a little worse after I installed the Intercooler. Repositioning the Pulley last night and it seemed to fix the boost issue, but time will tell.
Just wanted to offer something basic that you may have already tried...
I installed a Vortech V3 on my car just about 2 and a half weeks ago. It's a 2005 Mustang GT- I had a idle/surge problem, then I retraced my steps- I found out that when I started the car to test the supercharger, I did not take it out for a run after having the battery disconnected.
Ford has a very precise idle learn procedure you must follow after having the battery disconnected for a long period of time- I disconnected the battery for about 2 hours and touched the two terminals together so it discharge the computer and capacitors.
Then connected the battery, started the car and took it out for about 15-20 miles. A little surging here and there, after about 20 miles, BEHOLD perfect idle!! Have not had a problem since then... Just wondering if you did it that way or not.
Good point. You're supposed to idle until it reaches operating temp, and then for another minute with the A/C on and then drive for at least 10 minutes.
I had a lot of issues with rough idle and surging in my old T-Bird SC, went through tons of parts, different shops and aggravation, in the end it turned out to be a vacum leak. There was a steel colar that tightens the tube from the intercooler to the intake plenum, it was tight but not tight enough, ended up hitting it with a stake with hammer to force it tight, It worked . As silly as it may sound, double check all the obvious connections
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2007 GT Convertible Premium 5 spd || FRPP HotRod Cams || Full Steeda Suspension w D-Specs || Brembo GT500 || Steeda CAI & Delete plates|| Flowmaster || Magnaflow catted X Pipe || MGW Shifter || Tuned by RealSpeed ||
I have check for vacumm leaks at least 10 times, and unless I am missing a line. As far as disconecting the battery and going through that process, would that not fix it self after awile with normal driving or do you have to do it that way for it to learn correctly?
The computer is not that smart to correct a bad idle, it can try to help it, which is why you get surging. It tries to correct it, then can't, so surges, and then tries to correct again but cant.
What I did was take both terminals off the battery, tapped them together to discharge everything and if you have a cap for subs or an amp make sure you disconnect the cap and touch those two wires together also while the battery is disconnected. Re-connect the battery and drive it until the idle evens out and stops surging hence the computer will have learned by then...also like stlwagon mentioned, it has to do a complete cold/hot cycle.
. As silly as it may sound, double check all the obvious connections
