I just did my LCAs this past weekend, so it's still fresh in my mind. Yep, the bolts are 18mm, and the nuts have the tab welded on the back so you don't have to hold them.
Here's a brain dump of the process I followed:
You'll want to put the rear axle up on jack stands and pull the wheels.
With the e-brake off, pop the little spring steel clip off the e-brake assembly, and unhook the cable, and thread it through the stock LCA.
Then, for one side, pull the 18mm bolts out, and take out the stock LCA. Do them one at a time, or else the axle may shift.
Grease the bushings as specified in the instructions, and put the LCAs into place. Mine also had a front/back and left/right orientation, so make sure you get that right.
I have a rubber hammer that I used to get them settled, and get the holes lined up. Insert the bolts but don't torque them down very much. I also used the rubber hammer to tap the bolts through.
When both LCAs are in, but not torqued down, put the wheels back on, drop the car, and put the back up on ramps. I used Loc-tite on the bolts as well. Then, torque the bolts down to 129 ft-lb. You want to torque to spec while they're sitting at the stock ride height, hence the wheels sitting on the ramps. Just a fore-warning, there's not much of an arc to turn the torque wrench on the front (frame) bolts, so it takes awhile.
There's also something in the shop manual about a method of marking the rear shock sleeve height, but I didn't feel like messing with that.
A lift would make it really easy, but it's doable on jackstands and ramps. Have fun!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookyStang I would like to know the answer to this question, too. My uncles/fiance tried to remove my stock LCA's to install BMR LCA's and my stock ones would not come off. I'm going to have to take it to a shop to have them installed.  |
Ouch... I don't remember mine "falling" out, but I didn't have to put much pressure on it. With both bolts and e-brake cable out, I'm assuming they tried tapping it with a hammer or something, right?