interesting.... so are you saying for lower end S/C setups and a daily driver car its not good enough.... if there is one thing I haven't gotten a handle on when it comes to S/C's is fuel management.
So is it a general consensus that the gt500 are a must when you S/C or will the GT super car fuel pumps do just fine?
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Look for mod's in profile... too many.
"As I walk through the valley of rice, I shall fear no VTEC, for torque art though with me. Thy rod and thy piston, they comfort me"
interesting.... so are you saying for lower end S/C setups and a daily driver car its not good enough.... if there is one thing I haven't gotten a handle on when it comes to S/C's is fuel management.
So is it a general consensus that the gt500 are a must when you S/C or will the GT super car fuel pumps do just fine?
It would be just fine for a low boost application. If you start getting above 10 though, you want a beefier setup. Keep in mind that it's still just one pump with a BAP. If that pump goes, you're in trouble. In a GT500 setup, if one pump fails, you still have a backup so you'd be able to at least limp home.
It would be just fine for a low boost application. If you start getting above 10 though, you want a beefier setup. Keep in mind that it's still just one pump with a BAP. If that pump goes, you're in trouble. In a GT500 setup, if one pump fails, you still have a backup so you'd be able to at least limp home.
yah i know how that goes... my audi before this car had a fuel pump failure (it was turbocharged car).... it was bad enough that it shut down in the middle of the road that i had to wait for a flatbed ( 1 hour) cuz a normal tow truck couldn't tow it cuz it was AWD.... I couldn't find a rock big enough to berry my head under for that hour.... a late model Audi sitting in the middle of the road while all the Honda's and Toyota's passed by!!!!!
Finally some dude decided to help me push the car to the side of the road after like 30 minutes... thank god!
Personally I think ill take my chances with a BAP as I dont plan on running over 8psi if I go FI ( the $$$ for the GT500 fuel pumps is pretty steep!!).... the question is what do about the wiring... run higher guage one or use the stock?
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Look for mod's in profile... too many.
"As I walk through the valley of rice, I shall fear no VTEC, for torque art though with me. Thy rod and thy piston, they comfort me"
The 40 amp version is for the GT500 dual pump setup...
The dial does not come with the BAP if you get it in a supercharger kit..
These pumps are rated to run for hundreds of thousands of miles, so even if the higher voltage does decrease the duty cycle, it should still run well over 100k miles before failure.
BTW, Kenne Bell uses a vacuum switch so the BAP only boosts voltage (from 13v to 17v) when in boost. If you use it like it was intended, you will not be pushing the pump harder for most of the time, unless you drive with your foot to the floor everywhere you go.. Companies like Brenspeed recommend you bypass the switch and just run it wide open, but KB says it's a bad idea because it is harder on the pump driver and pump, and because it can cause some idle issues. (I bypassed the switch and coming out of WOT the idle will bounce a little trying to find 750 rpm).
As far as the one pump thing, my car is too low to get a jack under it, so if I get a flat I am stuck.. and the chances of a tire failing are WAY higher than a fuel pump failing.. There is a lot more to worry about than a fuel pump going out on you, so it's just not something I waste time or money on. For 1/3rd the cost, the BAP is a good way to go. If I had $750 sitting around to blow, I would do the GT500 pumps.
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
The dial does not come with the BAP if you get it in a supercharger kit..
O O .... thats an interesting development.... no dial eh? I would personally want one so that it only kicks in when in boost at like 4psi... might have to look into that for sure if it doesnt come with the S/C kit.
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Look for mod's in profile... too many.
"As I walk through the valley of rice, I shall fear no VTEC, for torque art though with me. Thy rod and thy piston, they comfort me"
if set-up as intended, a B-A-P only operates at WOT. my car is a daily driver and just for fun over the last couple weeks i have been doing tons of data logging. most of the time at 60mph crusing the throttle is at 10-12% and excelerating may be around 15%. i have what i call a heavy foot and still i only do maybe one or two wide open runs a week. now on the strip a good run for most of us is maybe 12-11 sec. on the street however most wide open times are limited to 5 sec or so. IMO thies short times that the pump is "overclocked" as some one said, will not do any real shortening of the pumps life. at the same time tho, if we all where so concerned about getting the maximum life out of our cars i dont think we would even be talking about WOT and superchargers...
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2005 Mustang GT Paxton Novie 1200SL Supercharger, C&L 95mm Mass/Air sensor, 39lb injectors, Motoblue ignition coils, Motoblue throttle plate spacer, Borla XR-1 Long Tube Headers and no cat x-pipe, Hooker Aero Chamber muffler, Custom LaMotta Performance tune, G-force tires, B&M shifter, Kennybell b-a-p, Steeda streat wing, RKSport California Dream Ram Air Hood, AEM analog A/F gauge, Interceptor scan gauge, McLeod RST clutch
MMR shortblock all broken in!
intercooler/smaller pully to come...
I’m assuming you have a dry system here. Which makes me wonder how much would it cost to upgrade to a wet system running its own fuel supply? You can simply tap your stock fuel hat for a fuel line/pickup, run an inline pump to a regulator and just add a fuel solenoid and electronics (I think that’s it). The low pressure fuel pump won’t cost a thing. You don’t need big $$ fuel line or regulator but I have no idea what the solenoid / nozzle conversion would run ya. If you went this route your OEM fuel system would run as designed and in theory last forever or crap out on you “mid-run”. The when you want to hose it you flip your arming switch to fire up the second pump and arm the N2O solenoid and simply let er rip and you will never have to worry about fuel starvation, etc.
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I get asked why I carry a gun. I tell them its because stabbing people is gross.
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