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Old 07-02-2009   #16 (permalink)
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I came in at 380 rwhp with a similar setup. I am running the stock injectors though. I figured I would switch that out along with other fuel system upgrades when I upgrade to FI.
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Old 07-02-2009   #17 (permalink)
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If it’s a NSR cam it’s not “big” enough to justify the cost and time involved when judged against the little gains they will net.

If you go for cams plan on long tubes. Each works ok by themselves but they work fantastic when combined.

The cams that are ground to have an intentionally choppy idle are just plain stupid. A choppy idle is a byproduct of a big “race” cam because they run like crap down low. Grinding a cam to run like crap down low to get a choppy idle but not getting the big HP gains up top is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard.

I know that this is not an industry standard yet but it should be. Any multi cam motor MUST have the cams degreed when they are installed or they will not work like they are supposed to. Cam degreeing is incredibly important. I have degreed stock cams that were set up straight from the factory and gained as much as 10% hp and tq. That’s just timing the stock cams correctly.

I suspect the reason for there not being consistent cam data is because they are not being degreed when installed. It’s more than likely that if you put the same part number cam in 5 different motors with the same mods you would get 5 different performance gains if they were not degreed.

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Old 07-02-2009   #18 (permalink)
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I agree with Squid. If I had it to do over I wouldn't do the FRPP Hot Rod Cams. Didn't do my homework. I know someone that did the FRPP cams and LT's and was impressed, I didn't do the LT's and I'm not so impressed with mine.
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Old 07-02-2009   #19 (permalink)
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Sorry, it's SQIDD. Didn't intentionally mispell your handle.
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Old 07-02-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sqidd View Post
If it’s a NSR cam it’s not “big” enough to justify the cost and time involved when judged against the little gains they will net.

If you go for cams plan on long tubes. Each works ok by themselves but they work fantastic when combined.

The cams that are ground to have an intentionally choppy idle are just plain stupid. A choppy idle is a byproduct of a big “race” cam because they run like crap down low. Grinding a cam to run like crap down low to get a choppy idle but not getting the big HP gains up top is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard.

I know that this is not an industry standard yet but it should be. Any multi cam motor MUST have the cams degreed when they are installed or they will not work like they are supposed to. Cam degreeing is incredibly important. I have degreed stock cams that were set up straight from the factory and gained as much as 10% hp and tq. That’s just timing the stock cams correctly.

I suspect the reason for there not being consistent cam data is because they are not being degreed when installed. It’s more than likely that if you put the same part number cam in 5 different motors with the same mods you would get 5 different performance gains if they were not degreed.
My Tuner was also telling me about this. I do agree with what you are saying. You seem to know alot on cams.

Alls i was looking for where some peope in the pages who are already running a similiar setup to what i will be soon. I guess you can say im excited for my install lol. Thanks for your help!
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Old 07-02-2009   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MUSSL View Post
I came in at 380 rwhp with a similar setup. I am running the stock injectors though. I figured I would switch that out along with other fuel system upgrades when I upgrade to FI.
REALLY..?!? Wow if i come across them kind of #s I'd be very impressed!

I went with the 39# injectors b/c the guy was selling them for veyr cheap and I figured id be able to throw more fuel at my car when the setups done.

Id love to see almost 380rwhp
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Old 07-02-2009   #22 (permalink)
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I guess you can say im excited for my install lol. Thanks for your help!
Yeah, you can call it excitement (I enjoy other people getting new toys. I just bought [with his money] a new Ducati 1198 for my best friend and $38K in mods and have everything here ready to build. How much fun is that!),and intellectual curiosity. Compared to suspension tuning cam “work” is a piece of cake. There is a cam “solution” out there somewhere. With suspensions there is no ultimate solution because of the human variable. Of course that is what I like about doing suspension work, but there is something to be said for being able to find a solution and not doing what you do for a living all day long.

I have been doing a ton of work with the cam and head data I have been able to compile (lots) just to see what seems to work best with what. I am always interested in the more complex side of setup and this is interesting too me right now. I emailed Comp Cams to see if they would provide me with their valve opening and closing event numbers so I could calculate overlap but I haven’t gotten a reply yet. It has spaces for the data on their online cam cards but no info in the fields. It would be nice to have that information because with the overlap numbers picking a cam is very “easy” with other setup factors already known (compression, RPM range, intake flow numbers, header size and primary tube length, blown, turbo, etc, etc, etc). With all that data it is mostly math and not much voodoo. I would be happy to put together some theoretical setups for board members to be able to take a look at and hopefully it would be helpful if they were deciding to go with cams.

I doubt I will be doing cams this winter when I do my motor and turn up the boost simply because I can hit my HP goal (650 100% streetable pump gas rwhp) without them. But, I still may do it anyway because it would be nice to hit my goal with less boost and therefore less heat and danger of detonation. I also have a bit of a fantasy of doing a 8,000rpm motor even though I don’t need to go anything over 6,000rpm’s to reach my goals. But the roadracer in me who loves high spinning motors (not to be confused with motors that MUST BE high spinning) would dig the crap out of 8K upshifts with a FI motor. That would be one pissed off powerplant, a riot to drive and in a sea of sameness (Mustangs), a bit different. That motor would begging for just the right cams though. So my time spent screwing with these cam numbers and simulations is fun on an intellectual level, could possibly help me out if I go with cams and I would like to be able to steer board members into better working combos so they don’t have to rely on advertising, hearsay and biased shop opinions about what does and does not work. I think it’s fair to say I have no agenda when it comes to cam advice. I could give a crap about what someone buys aside from the frustration at watching people throwing good money after bad. And the frustration is not with the buyer, but with the seller. I can’t stand it when a shop takes advantage of people because the customer simply can’t possibly make a 100% informed decision. Or a shop that doesn’t know WTF they are talking about, tossing advice around as if they actually know what they are talking about when in fact they are just one step more informed than you “civilian” tuners are (this is more common than you think). Camming a motor is very, very complex. A cam is the brain of the motor. Therefore most people don’t know all the variables involved with how they work and that more than includes the shops out there throwing cams in hand over fist. Installing cams is easy as pie. I could teach just about anyone over the level of stupid Caveman how to do it in a day. Teaching someone how they work, how to properly degree them, how to pick or design a cam and getting it right on the other hand can’t just be taught to just anyone and it won’t be a short lesson. I’ll bet 95% of the ‘Mustang shops” out there doing Mod Motor cams don’t have one person on staff that is capable of degreeing a set of cams properly. And I’ll bet 99% of the shops don’t have a person on staff that could do it without having to have written instructions on hand to get them through it. And I have not gone looking but I doubt the service manual has instructions on degreeing cams in it and they certainly don’t come from the Cam Company.

If I can get enough data together I would be more than happy to map out some good working combos……..maybe it will offset me being a dick a little. Probably not though.
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Old 07-02-2009   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RedFire07GT View Post
REALLY..?!? Wow if i come across them kind of #s I'd be very impressed!

I went with the 39# injectors b/c the guy was selling them for veyr cheap and I figured id be able to throw more fuel at my car when the setups done.

Id love to see almost 380rwhp
Just curious as to why you are running HT0 plugs. That's the wrong plug for your setup.
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Old 07-02-2009   #24 (permalink)
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Sorry, it's SQIDD. Didn't intentionally mispell your handle.
No worries, its a bit of a confusing one that started with a personalized plate I got for a motorcycle a milion tears back. I wanted squid ,which is a term used for motorcycle riders who runs his mouth like he is the fastest most talented thing in the world but can't ride for crap. I wanted the plate because I am stupid fast and talented ........and shy about telling you about it . Its the big guy getting called Tiny thing. Unfortunately squid was taken so I went with sqidd. Most people think its supposed to be "skid" so its a bit confusing. Not to mention it just "reads" strange.

Its kind of funny that the plate came full circle though. After racing my first 4 race weekends (on a GSXR600) and not getting a win (unrealistic expectation in retrospect) I unloaded my Ducati 916 streetbike, taped up the lights, did the few saftey requirement things, threw some slicks on it and went out and won my first race, from the last row.......and still had the sqidd lic. plate on the bike.

Ever since then I use it as my handle because its always available.
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Old 07-02-2009   #25 (permalink)
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Just curious as to why you are running HT0 plugs. That's the wrong plug for your setup.

Yesssss i know :/ .... Would it really effect anything without being F/I?
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Old 07-02-2009   #26 (permalink)
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Yesssss i know :/ .... Would it really effect anything without being F/I?
They will foul much quicker. Other than that it won't hurt anything.
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Old 07-02-2009   #27 (permalink)
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Come on sqidd give us a quick lesson on degreeing cams!
I dont understand and I'm sure there are more than a few others reading that dont.
Other than being in time, what is degreeing?
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Old 07-02-2009   #28 (permalink)
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The FRPP Hot Rod cams comes complete without the need to buy additional equipment like springs ect
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Old 07-02-2009   #29 (permalink)
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They will foul much quicker. Other than that it won't hurt anything.
Hmmm... wellllll i am planing on addg a shot after i stroke the motor. so then they shall come in handy.
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Old 07-02-2009   #30 (permalink)
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The FRPP Hot Rod cams comes complete without the need to buy additional equipment like springs ect
Yes. FRPP HotRod cams are a NSR cam whih means "No Spring/Phaser mods equired."

But i figured, if im going to do a cam, id rather replace Springs/Retainers ect. Kinda go for the kill yanno?

The car will be a daily driver after my 95 v6 DD dies. So thats why i stayed with stage 2 heads and cams. So i can drive it daily when the time comes.

If it wasnt a DD. thne i would have gone stage 3+.
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