No worries, its a bit of a confusing one that started with a personalized plate I got for a motorcycle a milion tears back. I wanted squid ,which is a term used for motorcycle riders who runs his mouth like he is the fastest most talented thing in the world but can't ride for crap. I wanted the plate because I am stupid fast and talented ........and shy about telling you about it . Its the big guy getting called Tiny thing. Unfortunately squid was taken so I went with sqidd. Most people think its supposed to be "skid" so its a bit confusing. Not to mention it just "reads" strange.
Its kind of funny that the plate came full circle though. After racing my first 4 race weekends (on a GSXR600) and not getting a win (unrealistic expectation in retrospect) I unloaded my Ducati 916 streetbike, taped up the lights, did the few saftey requirement things, threw some slicks on it and went out and won my first race, from the last row.......and still had the sqidd lic. plate on the bike.
Ever since then I use it as my handle because its always available.
Most Motor builders that build race engines always degree the cams. I have also seen on an engine dyno where the configuration of headers can make a difference on where your power band is, as in which two cylinders you pair up in a collector before they all four go to a common collector. There is alot to consider when doing a build and it shoud be planned carefully with all mods considered.
I used to race bikes on the ice back in the 70's. Had a blast. Raced a 1949 WR Harley in the chain/ side hack class, and had a kawasaki, and a Yamaha I raced in the two wheel stud class.
Intersting - I think did my homework and am still quite pleased with the FRPP cams. I think Ford went the right direction with this product and am sure it doing quite well for them. A product more representative of the new generation of Mustang drivers. The intent of the FRPP cam is not to maximize power for the track (as noted above), owners that head to the track will lean towards the brands they historically recognize such as Comp and Crane, and will require springs.
After about 4 months with the cams in my car still very pleased, and I look forward to getting some LT's in the future!
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Originally Posted by Larry60
I agree with Squid. If I had it to do over I wouldn't do the FRPP Hot Rod Cams. Didn't do my homework. I know someone that did the FRPP cams and LT's and was impressed, I didn't do the LT's and I'm not so impressed with mine.
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2008 Vista Blue Mustang GT Coupe, FRPP Hot Rod Cams, FRPP 4.10s, Eiback Pro Lowering Kit, Steeda UDP, Steeda CMDP, Steeda CAI with 94 Octane Custom Dyno Tune, Solo Performance Axleback Exhaust, 20" Foose Nitrous Legend wrapped with Falken FK-452.
Hey guy's I'm very new to CAMS. Is there anywhere that shows you how to properly degree them? That is the only thing holding me back right now from DIY-ing them, I'm specifically looking at the Hotrod CAMS for my DD 05-GT. I'm in college right now and would love to save the money, If I could degree them with confidence! Thanks
I’m sure you can find a how to about degreeing cams. The problem is that the tooling is rather expensive if you want to do it right. And it is fairly time consuming. At least it’s a SOHC motor though. A DOHC motor takes forever.
And for those of you who asked cam degreeing is making sure that the valve events on both banks of cylinders are happening at the same time (the cylinders that are supposed too). Firstly, if you have a SOHC motor and don’t degree the cams it is guaranteed that they will not be in phase with each other. How far out of phase is impossible to predict. When they are out of phase you essentially have two 4 cylinder motors with different power curves sharing a crankshaft. Obviously not ideal.
The second reason to degree them is to set the attitude of the motor up. The cams centerline is will effect the type of power the motor makes. Retard the timing get more top end power. Advance the timing and you get more low end power.
I have yet to see a single cam motor (pushrod motor) that when “straight up” (cam alignment keys, marks lined up) is actually at the recommended lobe center. Not real far off but everything counts. When it comes to SOHC and DOHC motors not only is it likely that no cam will be set “straight up” but that the other cams are timed to each other correctly.
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I get asked why I carry a gun. I tell them its because stabbing people is gross.
Well I went with the FRPP Hot Rod Cams and I do like them. However, I did get to hear a nice set of Comp Stage IIIs with ported heads last week and I was in AWE! I am not thinking of trashing the Hot Rod Cams for that set up. Not now, maybe next year. I have spent way too much on this car this year.
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Victor
2007 Foose Stallion "The Prowler"
FRPP Polished Whipple SC - 8lb boost, FRPP Hot Rod Cams (M-6550-3V), FRPP Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, FRPP Tuned Racing Suspension, FRPP Tuned Racing Exhaust, FRPP Axle Back, Steeda TriAx, Nexus Series - AFM, Vac/Boost, Fuel Pressure, Speed of Sound Dash Pod, Raptor Blue LED Shift Light. 425 RWHP 387 TQ
Cams are one of those parts that needs to be chosen based on what you want out of it.
If you are looking for a lumpy idle and are not concerned with every last HP available then the “Hot Rod” cam and the “Thumper Cams” are a good buy.
If you are after only power and don’t want to have the choppy idle and potential idle, low speed drivability, etc compromises then another cam is in order.
I am in the latter. I want a cam that will help me make more power but I don’t want my idle to change firstly because I’m getting old now and shaking like a washing machine at stop lights is not at the top of my list. And secondly I don’t like to advertise what I am packin’ for power. The VSR blower grinds are outstanding for my needs.
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I get asked why I carry a gun. I tell them its because stabbing people is gross.
. Its the big guy getting called Tiny thing. Unfortunately squid was taken so I went with sqidd. Most people think its supposed to be "skid" so its a bit confusing. Not to mention it just "reads" strange.
