hey everyone, i was cruising this saturday only doing about forty then started to hear a pretty bad clank, almost sounded like a bad exhaust leak, about a mile or two later i pulled in to a mcdonalds to grab breakfast, then hear A VERY LOUD CLANK. i broke a rod or two i'm guessing. had it towed to my local ford dealership, they agreed that it was prob a rod or something else very wrong internally. I'm no mechanic by any means and hear is my dilemma besides the obvious. The trusty dealership said to break down the engine and fix whatevers wrong could get very pricey, up into the 8-10 thousand range for parts and labor ( ludacris in my opinion). so they suggested to drop 7400 to let them install a "remanufactured" engine. any suggestions on most economical but correct way to go about this? that 5.0 liter stroker from MMR doesn't look to bad (despite there rep)
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2005 mustang gt-mineral grey-5-speed -19" falken rims- XO vision Double Din 6.5" screen radio/dvd- Infinity Audio-FRPP 4.10's-JBA LT's, JBA o/r H-pipe, custom built axle-backs , Roush CAI (pre-Air raid), bbk 62 mm twin tb, hurst short throw, steeda UD pulleys, Bren speed 93-octane tune, SCT, BMR(anti-squats, 2" lowering springs, adj, panhard rod), Steed delete plates.
Future- Aluminum DS and full rear-end job, Fully upgraded suspension, brakes, cams, P&P heads, built engine, PH turbo.
7400 for remanfactured engine??even a new gt engine, isn only 6700 msrp from the ford site. id find a worthy performance shop that specializes in stangs and have either a built engine put in or have the s197 engine rebuilt by a shop,or have a shop put a new gt engine in.fords ridiculous when it comes to labor !!!!!!well al dealers really.how many miles do you have on it?
You can pick up a used motor for $1,500.00 - $3,000.00. Then either install yourself or pay someone $1,000.00 or so to install it.That would be the cheapest and probably quickest route.There are plenty of motors out there.Good luck and keep us updated..we can help for sure
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2006 Mustang GT. CDC classic chin spoiler,Off road x , FRPP GTA axlebacks,Tunable Induction CAI,SCTtuner. FRPP 3.73 gear,Rear window louver,Qtr window louvers.CDC shaker hood,M&H drag radials, and ZEX 125 shot nitrous for insurance!
Best ET to date- 11.89 @ 114 mph
390 rwhp
520 rwtq
No more Nitrous all motor now.Don't ask.
Thank you for all the replies fellas, i'm going to check into a few route you all suggested and i will keep you updated, car only had 50,000 miles, no track time, and i can honestly say i do not abuse her. thanks again
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2005 mustang gt-mineral grey-5-speed -19" falken rims- XO vision Double Din 6.5" screen radio/dvd- Infinity Audio-FRPP 4.10's-JBA LT's, JBA o/r H-pipe, custom built axle-backs , Roush CAI (pre-Air raid), bbk 62 mm twin tb, hurst short throw, steeda UD pulleys, Bren speed 93-octane tune, SCT, BMR(anti-squats, 2" lowering springs, adj, panhard rod), Steed delete plates.
Future- Aluminum DS and full rear-end job, Fully upgraded suspension, brakes, cams, P&P heads, built engine, PH turbo.
You might be jumping the gun a little bit. I'd hold off buying a new motor until you get the heads off. Usually a broken rod will punch through the block and there will be oil everywhere. Why don't you just take off the cam covers and have a look at the valvetrain. Sounds to me like a broken rocker arm or something.
You can also peek into the cylinder by pulling the plugs. Turn the motor over manually. Obviously if the rod is broken the piston will not move up and down.
P.S. If you don't want to do that and just get a new motor pm me. You are close enough to me that I might consider buying your engine
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It's better to burn out than to fade away - The Kurgan
engine emergency!!! 
all motor now.Don't ask.
