[Kyle F]

I am workign at getting all the prep pieces for my car in plans of boosting. I am really looking at the KB kits.

Anyway my question is how to keep an eye on things. Ofcourse I need to add a boost gage. I am planning on a Wide band 02 and gage as well. Do I need to go with a fuel pressure gage as well or will the A/F gage tell me a good enough story in the cabin?

I also am planning on rear suspension work as well. (UCA,LCAs,Panhard Bar)

[albroswift]

Sounds like an awsome setup! Fuel pressure guage a must, IMHO. AF guage a great add, I haven't put one on yet, I hear they are expensive, maybe for Christmas...

[marstng]

With the KB you get the complete package as far as safe running.
The computer will shut you down if you are running too far out side of safe parameters. I have 2000 miles on my KB with no problems whatsoever.

The guage you need the most as far as safety is concerned would be a fuel pressure guage.

But really, are you gonna be lookin at it when you are smoking a Camaro?

[hawgman]

I disagree. I think ( in my opinion ) that a wideband is more valuable than a fuel pressure gauge. Your tune can run lean and still have good fuel pressure, but there is no way you can run safe or rich with low fuel pressure. Wideband is going to tell you more than a fuel pressure gauge. If your pressure is low, the wideband is going to reflect it. If your tune is off due to ...whatever, weather, bad gas, any number of things, the wideband is going to reflect it. Fuel pressure will not.

[albroswift]

Good point. What guages do you have?

[S197 GT]

I'd say get a Boost/Vac, Fuel Pressure and a Wideband A/F Gauge.

Hawg said it best about the importance of the Wideband. Steer clear of the cheaper Narrowband gauges.

I'd recommend going with CHE for your Control Arms, and definitelty get the K-Member Brace with Torque Limiters too! This will greatly decrease the torquing of your transmission which will cause you to miss shifts.

You'll also need to get spark plugs if you get the KB. I recommend the HT0's.

[hawgman]

Originally Posted by albroswift

Good point. What guages do you have?

I am running a Dynojet Wideband Commander, Autometer Cobalt vac/boost, Autometer Cobalt water temp ( because I have an electric water pump and like to have accurate H2O temp readings ) and I do have an Autometer Cobalt electric fuel pressure. But don't pay any attention to it.

[albroswift]

Sounds like a great setup. How do you like the electric Waterpump? much trouble to install?

[don_w]

I'll add my 2 cents here. I have an AEM wideband AF gauge, and the Nexus Boost/Vac, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp.

I also have a few other goodies on the car if you need any more ideas on where you can spend a ton of money:



ENGINE
Kenne Bell 2.4L Supercharger
Kenne Bell 8-Rib Pulley Set-up with 3” Upper Pulley, 12psi
Ford Teksid Aluminum Block, bored 0.020" over
Ford Cobra 8-Bolt Forged Crank
Scat 4340 H-Beam Forged Rods, w/ARP 2000 Bolts
JE Custom Forged Coated Pistons
ARP Head Studs
Autolite HT0 Spark Plugs
Moroso Aluminum 7-Qt Oil Pan
Ford Triton V-10 Flexplate
Meziere Electric Water Pump
DiabloSport MAFia
Powdercoated Cam Covers
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Engine Built/Tuned by S.T. Motorsports, San Bernardino
Machine Work-Dougan’s Race Machine

HEADS
Livernois Stage 2 Ported & Polished
Livernois Performance Valve Springs
Manley Inconel Valves, +1mm

TRANSMISSION
5R55S Street/Strip Rebuild, with 3000rpm Torque Converter

FUEL SYSTEM
39# Fuel Injectors
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump

EXHAUST
Dynatech SS Long Tube Headers, 1-3/4” w/Jet-Hot Coating
Dynatech X-Pipe
Exhaust Cutouts, with Electric Valves
Magnaflow Axle-Back Mufflers

REAR END
FRPP 4.10 Gears, 8.8”
Detroit TrueTrac Differential
Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft
BMR Driveshaft Loop
Moser 31-spline Axles, 3” Studs
Moser Rear End Girdle

SUSPENSION
BMR Tubular K-member
BMR Radiator Support/Sway Bar Delete
BMR Adjustable Lower Control Arms
BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
BMR Panhard Relocation Bracket
BMR Adjustable Upper Control Arm
Spohn Rear UCA Housing Bushing Kit
Strange Adjustable Rear Shocks

BRAKES
Dual Line Lock Solenoids
PowerSlot Front Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Front & Rear

TIRES/WHEELS
Street:
17 x 9 Chrome Bullitt Wheels
Nitto 450 255/50-17, Front
Nitto 450 275/50-17, Rear

Track:
Weld Draglite XP, 15x9, 5.5bs
Mickey Thompson ET Drag slicks, 28x10.50-15
Weld Draglite, 15x3.5 - 1.75bs
Mickey Thompson ET Front Tires, 26x4.50-15

EXTERIOR
CDC Shaker Scoop (modified)
CDC Classic Chin Spoiler
Chase Taillights
Clear Corner Lenses and Stealth Bulbs
Window Tint, 5%
Redline Hood Struts

INTERIOR
Autometer Nexus Controller Module
Autometer Nexus Boost/Vac Gauge
Autometer Nexus Water Temp Gauge
Autometer Nexus Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
SOS 2-Gauge Pillar Pod
Custom Center Vent Panel Gauge Pod
Fan, Line Lock & Cutout Switches
Dash Kit

[hawgman]

*First off, Kyle, sorry for the thread hyjack......


Love the EH2O pump. Entire install took maybe an hour including wiring. Didn't even bother to drain the coolant system to do it. Got the pump and O-ring ready in one hand, pulled the stock pump with the other, stabbed in the new pump. Spilled maybe two quarts of fluid total.
Overall temps dropped probably 10 degrees or so. Cooldown is MUCH quicker, and stop and go traffic....no temp issues at all. If nothing else, it cools down instead of going up. And that is a nice quality to have in Texas heat with a supercharger.


*OK Kyle, you can have the thread back. Again, sorry for the hyjack.

[tached_out]

I am running a Boost/VAC, AFR, and OIL Pressure and that seems to be doing great. Except that when I blew my motor every thing was stable and my afr was right at 11.7 so I was not to lean either. I was running a safe tune at 10psi. A procharger stage II. I just had a weak piston that didnt want to stay in the block and wanted to take out a rod as well. I would honestly build your motor and port and polish your heads. You can buy a 04 stroker Cobra Block w/ forged parts port and polish heads for about 4200. Which will put you up to some great numbers and plus you will have a 950hp safe motor.

[Brent05redfire]

dang Don W!! leave some parts on the shelves for us!

[don_w]

Originally Posted by Brent05redfire

dang Don W!! leave some parts on the shelves for us!

LOL... I'll leave all the aftermarket throttle bodies and cams for you. I don't need them.

[sawyer]

I have AEM wideband and boost.


Wow Don,
I love your avatar(are those really your plates?).
How much horsepower are you putting to the rear wheels Nice to see you are a rookie somewhere lol.

[don_w]

Originally Posted by sawyer

Wow Don,
I love your avatar(are those really your plates?).
How much horsepower are you putting to the rear wheels Nice to see you are a rookie somewhere lol.

No... that's not my plate. Read this post: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...tml#post551728

As many people know, I don't get caught up in dyno numbers... I only care about ETs. But the last time I had it on a dyno, it put down about 460rwhp (with a funked up torque converter ).