Bleeding clutch system.
You need a vacuum pump kit.
Then.
1. Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated. Then make sure all bleed screws are tightened to specification. (71 lb-in).
2. Make sure clutch peadel is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. fill to max.
4. Using a sutiable bleeder kit and a vacuum pump, install rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure rubber stopper has a tight fit.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve vacuum. Remove tools.
6. Check the reservoir level and fill to max if needed and install cap.
7. Depress the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or untill clutch pedal is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Reapeat steps 4 to 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal is positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Install reservoir cap.
10. Check clutch pedal reserve. Test clutch for normal operation.
Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Removed the radiator cover. Didn't remove the grill.
Loosen and remove radiator support bolts (2) on each side.
Install metal brackets underneath radiator support brackets and re-install bolts snug.
Install hood pins into the brackets just snug on both sides, adjusted to medium height, the same on both sides.
Put a dab of peanut butter on the tip of each pin.
Slowly close hood and let tips of pins touch the underside of hood to mark where to drill pilot holes with dabs of peanut butter (This peanut butter idea came from another forum member... can't remember who, but thanks whoever you are!)
Open hood and prop up with standard rod. FULLY COVER ENGINE BAY WITH A SHEET OR TARP TO KEEP METAL FILINGS OUT OF ENGINE BAY. Sharpen your favorite center punch, and indent starter spots where you want the drill bit to start. Drill pilot holes with new, small high-speed 1/8" metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
Slowly close hood and check small holes for alignment with pins. If they're not spot on, this will help you decide which way to force the next bigger bit to go when you drill the next version of the hole.
Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Redrill holes next with new, slightly bigger bit. I used 5/16" high-speed metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
Slowly close hood and check medium holes for alignment with pins. If they're not spot on, this will help you decide which way to force the next bigger bit to go when you drill the next version of the hole.
Open hood and prop up with standard rod. Redrill holes next with new full size bit. I used 9/16" high-speed metal drill bit. Blow away any debris.
Slowly close hood and check 9/16" holes for alignment with pins. I had to re-align my final hole opening by drilling from the top of the hood at another angle to accomodate for the hood closing in an arc. I propped the hood up off the pins and latch with a block of wood to do this.
Once the hood holes are good and you can close the hood with the pins installed, align lynch pin holes across car with each other.
Close the hood, slide the hard plastic bushing plate and billet plate over the hood pin, and slide the lynch pin into the hood pin hole. Decide how much more to lower or raise the main pin so that the lynch pin fits snug, open the hood and do so, and repeat until the hood pins are at just the right height to provide a snug lynch pin fit.
Tighten pins to brackets.
Close the hood, slide the hard plastic bushing plate and billet plate over the hood pin, and slide the lynch pin into the hood pin hole.
Drill holes (4) in hood to mount assembly. Use a small new high-speed metal drill bit just smaller than the screw body diameter inside the threads. Blow away any debris.
Attach billet plates using supplied screws. Snugly tighten. Do not over-tighten as it will cause hood damage!
Attach lanyards wherever you want. I'll take a few pictures so you can see where I attached mine and how they look later this afternoon when I get home.
Cut out holes on each side of radiator cover for the hood pins. Again, I'll take a few pictures so you can see where I cut mine and how they look later this afternoon when I get home.
Re-install radiator cover.
Close everything up, insert lynch pins, blow away any debris, clean up.
Go take her for a drive, and get the speed up there... Don't be shy. Enjoy the rock solid hood!!!
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2008 GT Premium, JLTII CAI, SCT X3, Bamachips 91 Race Tune, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears and GTAs, CHE UCA Bracket, UCA and LCAs, Koni STR.T Shocks/Struts, Shelby Billet/SS Hood Pins, CDC Classic Chin Spoiler, 18x10/18x9 Anthracite Deep Dish Bullitts, 285-40ZR18/255-45ZR18 Nitto 555s
Any way I changed my Auto Trans Fluid the other day
tools needed
jack & 4 jack stands (unless you are ghetto like me, I used 2 sets of ramps, cause I loaned out mine) T-30 torx bit ( for the fill plug on the drain plug) 7/8 wrench,(for the drain plug), its probably metric but the 7/8 fit good 8mm socket to remove the pan,and the 2 bolts that hold the filter on. fluid fill adapter (its nothing more than a tapered pipe that is threaded on one end)
here is where you can buy one, Amazon.com: OTC 6604 Ford Transmission Fluid Fill Adapter: Automotive
pump your fluid in, mine took between 4-5 qts.
when you pull the pump hose off the fill adapter, "allow the fluid to drain when the fluid comes out as a thin stream or a drip the fluid is at the correct level"
that part is per Ford.
S197 Alignment Specs 
S197 Mustang GT ATF Fluid Change Procedures 
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