[jre8806]

Hows the experience of putting these things on these stangs? WHat do they do? Why do they have 3000 RPM, 3500 RPM and 3800 RPM settings? Which would be more performing? Ive been looking at other under the hood stuff to do to the car until I finish the suspension part of my project. Ive been looking at the ones at RPM outlet, some say they decrease your 60 foot time by 1-2 sec and your 1/4 mile by 0.5 seconds. CAn someone shine the light on this subject? is it worth the money? thanks guys for the input. No input here has proven wrong nor cause a bad experience so why not go back to the exp boys?

[MickMach]

I havent been back to the track but I had a TCI 3500 installed and hope to knock a full second off my ET.
if you plan on staying N/A then 3000 stall converters will be good...F/I cars need 3500 stall. converters allow the RPMs to stay high between shifts....a stock converter say when you shift will drop say as much as 1000 rpm and A stall converter will only drop 500rpm or less between shifts.... which keeps you up in the power band.

[jre8806]

ah, well in the distant future i may want to go FI, So now im thinking of getting a 3500 jsut on the safe side. Thanks mick

[EagleAutosports]

A converter change will make almost as big a difference in driveability as gears do. Take off and driveability will improve but know the shift could feel a lot different. With a higher stall speed it doesn't shock the driveline as hard but it'll still be a positive shift. Also it'll generate more heat so get a good cooler and tranny temp gauge too.

[jre8806]

where can i get a cooler bud?

[Ricesmoker]

if you plan on staying N/A then 3000 stall converters will be good...F/I cars need 3500 stall. converters allow the RPMs to stay high between shifts....a stock converter say when you shift will drop say as much as 1000 rpm and A stall converter will only drop 500rpm or less between shifts.... which keeps you up in the power band.

WAIT A MINUTE!
Do not assume a 3500 stall is needed for forced induction. Each car has a different rpm where it hits peak torque. The converter should have a stall to put you in your best torque range. This could be very different between a turbo, a twin-screw or a centrifugal blower.
A High stall speed improves performance at the lauch, not at shifts.
If it worked that way we would shooot our loads in 500 feet. If you shifted to second at 6200 RPM and then it just dropped to 5700RPM your gear would run out in a fraction of a second before having to shift at 6200 RPM again.
A stall speed allows high RPM launching from a stop. You simply hold the wheels with the brakes to a higher RPM level to pre-load the drivetrain with energy. The RPM level your converter will allow you to hold before the wheels break loose is the "stall speed".
Once you release the brake all that energy hits the wheels at once. So it allows you to launch the car at a higher RPM level just like dumping the clutch in a stick car. Lower stalls engage at lower RPM levels. Locking converters can be set to lock an electronic clutch mechanism to eliminate all slippage. You would typically set the lock-up to 40 MPH.
If the converter is locked it has no affect on shifting accept for the fact that you are transferring full power during these shifts after 40 MPH.
You launch at a higher RPM decreasing your 60' time and decreasing your ET in the overall run.

[MexGT]

So if i want a PI @ 3500, should i get a single disk or multi disk ?

[jre8806]

ok so what setup do i need that will decrease my 1/4 mile and 60 foot time while giving me the greatest power in shifts?

[bigwilly43729]

I know this thread kinda died, so I'm jacking it, lol.

Seriously though. Do you need a new tune for the converter? Or is it "optional"?

[EagleAutosports]

Sorry, I kinda forgot about this thread.
You don't need a tune for the converter, not necessary.
You can get B&M, TCI, any of the automatic tranny makers have coolers and I'd say contact them with questions about it to make sure you get the right one for your car since they go on vehicle weight and intended use.
For the right converter, they'd go on your cam specs, converter specs, tire height, and a whole lot of other things too and this is if you were getting a custom converter. If you get one off the shelf, don't go too high on the stall speed if it's close to stock. I'd say around 2500-3000 would be on the high side but will do well. It'll drive a lot different too and will take some getting used to.

[don_w]

Originally Posted by EagleAutosports

Sorry, I kinda forgot about this thread.
You don't need a tune for the converter, not necessary.

If you get one off the shelf, don't go too high on the stall speed if it's close to stock. I'd say around 2500-3000 would be on the high side but will do well. It'll drive a lot different too and will take some getting used to.

I don't agree 100%.

Getting the tune adjusted for a new converter may not be mandatory, but it certainly can improve the way the 5R55S trans works. A good tuner can tweak things to make it a great daily driver and a hard-hitting WOT racer. Best of both worlds.

As far as driving on the street, I'm running a 3500 stall and the difference between it and my previous converter (as well as the stocker) is hardly noticable. The only time I really "feel" it is on a hard launch from a standing start (which is exactly what it's supposed to do). Other than than, drivability is excellent.

[LAK3RS]

Originally Posted by don_w

I don't agree 100%.

Getting the tune adjusted for a new converter may not be mandatory, but it certainly can improve the way the 5R55S trans works. A good tuner can tweak things to make it a great daily driver and a hard-hitting WOT racer. Best of both worlds.

As far as driving on the street, I'm running a 3500 stall and the difference between it and my previous converter (as well as the stocker) is hardly noticable. The only time I really "feel" it is on a hard launch from a standing start (which is exactly what it's supposed to do). Other than than, drivability is excellent.

So you went with a higher stall! Hows the car running now at the track compared to that crappy Art Carr you had in there? IMO, I'm glad I didn't jump on a converter so quick as I'm still debating on a PI 3200-4000 Stall single disk but am unsure yet...my car is a DD though!

Don...how about you just sell me your front Weld's w/spacers, lugs, etc.!!! Please!!!!

[don_w]

Originally Posted by LAK3RS

So you went with a higher stall! Hows the car running now at the track compared to that crappy Art Carr you had in there? IMO, I'm glad I didn't jump on a converter so quick as I'm still debating on a PI 3200-4000 Stall single disk but am unsure yet...my car is a DD though!

Don...how about you just sell me your front Weld's w/spacers, lugs, etc.!!! Please!!!!

Ummm... I'm still using the fronts, so I think I'll keep them.

The summer heat has been killing my ETs, but the car is launching harder than ever with the new TC. It's actually lifting the left front tire on most launches now. You can see it in many of my recent videos. It never did that before.

And FWIW, my car is a DD, too... about 15K miles per year.

.