OK well, first off the parts that i have on the car is ,intake, headers and exhaust, throttle body, charge motion delete plates, pulleys, driveshaft, 4.10 gears, and autolite hto's. well after i got all these parts installed i went over to a local place and got a custom tune with the sct. i got the car back it was great, until i got a check engine code. P0300 ----> random misfire. went back to them and they had me replace both my 02 sensors and all my plugs. and then they went ahead and redid the tune sorta. Now its been a week after and i still am gettin these check engine codes, my buddy has a shop and they cant figure it out either. curreently i got four codes. P0300 random misfire, P0303 cylinder #3 misfire, P0304 cylinder #4 misfire, and P0305 cylinder # 5 misfire. It doesnt matter if the engine is cold or at operating temp. it always gives me these codes after i get on the throttle and drive normal. after crusing at normal speeds then the check engine starts to blink for about a minute and the cars seems like its missing, and if the a/c is on it turns really hotttt. then after two cycles of the check enigne blinking the check enigne stays on. and i also just changed out my fuel pump. Can someone please heelp me, its driving me crazy lol thnkx alot....
Welcome to AFM... There is no reason you should be running HT0's. The plugs are likely fouling because they are too cold. Replace with HT1s and leave them gapped to .045.
Welcome to AFM... There is no reason you should be running HT0's. The plugs are likely fouling because they are too cold. Replace with HT1s and leave them gapped to .045.
I was wondering why he was using HT0s. 2sets and 2 O2 sensors get expensive. I agree with Stl on the problem.
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
im srry i made a misttake, i think i have the ht1's, well when i bought them they were the ones that were one heat range colder, and as far as the gap goes, the guy who tuned said he would gap it himself, and they were the ones who suggested me the plugs, when they pulled my old plugs they didnt say that they were fouled, but thnkx for the ryplies.
the misfires on my car were present before i put the new plugs in (autolites), the car was missing the same way with my old stock plugs and i have about 40K miles on those, thought it was time to change em anyways, so i got the hto's thinking it would stop the misfires but i was wrong lol.
the misfires on my car were present before i put the new plugs in (autolites), the car was missing the same way with my old stock plugs and i have about 40K miles on those, thought it was time to change em anyways, so i got the hto's thinking it would stop the misfires but i was wrong lol.
Hmmm... Have you pulled the plugs from the offending cylinder and inspected them? You could try moving the COPs around to see if the problem follows a specific coil.
yea thnkx, so far iv checked the crank sensor it was good, check the plugs and the were good, just changed the fuel pump, and i do have with in spec fuel pressure, also checked for exhaust leaks and dont have one, but havnt checked for coil performance and havnt checked for vacum leaks. i do for some reason feel like i have a very slight vaccum leak but no sure. sometimes when i slow down to a stop my rpm slightly lags in coming down. ill be completely stopped but the rpm sorta stays at about 1100 rpm then after a second or two it dropps down. and when i have my a/c on when i come to a complete stop the rpm sorta fluctuate about 100-200 rpms from my regular idle. i also did check my tps voltage. tps seems to be working fine, i do have the bbk 62mm thorttle body i adjusted tps voltage on idle to about 0.9v.
yea it was set for that but sum other guy told me on idle normal voltage should from 0.6-0.9, and one other thing, my new pump doesnt work now, i think it might be the feul pump relay, and that actually might be the problem too all my problems but the thing is i dont know where its located, would u perhaps know.
yea it was set for that but sum other guy told me on idle normal voltage should from 0.6-0.9, and one other thing, my new pump doesnt work now, i think it might be the feul pump relay, and that actually might be the problem too all my problems but the thing is i dont know where its located, would u perhaps know.
The fuel pump relay is under the hood fuse panel #21. You should adjust the volts back up to what is recommended by BBK. They know what they designed there system to run at. the .6 may be with the stock t/b.
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
oh ok thats true, one other thing, i checked the relay it seemed good then checked the fuel shut off switch by the clutch pedal that didnt have any voltage giong to it.
2005 Mustang GT misfire problems .gif "Scared")
lol thnkx alot....
