[1550GT]

I have seen a couple of install write ups and one says to put the jackstands under the car forward of the LCA and another says to put the jackstands under the axle housing. Which is better?

[bigwilly43729]

I don't think it matters, but I want to say that the LCA bolts need to be torqued under a load, but my instructions didn't say anything about it. Just make sure they are torqued to 129ft-lbs.

[stlwagon]

Put them on the frame rail for the install. Lower the car before you torque the bolts.

[1550GT]

I will do the frame rail. Here were my thoughts on the install. With the stands under the frame rails when you unbolt the LCA it would allow the axel free movement and cause the bolt holes not to line up. Is the axle housing fairly easy to move back in place?


If the stand were under the axel housing it may not shift out of place as easily as it would if the suspension were hanging freely, therefore (theoretically) the bolt holes would still be in line, but if they do get off it would be harder to align the holes using this method.

Thanks for your answer. I will do the install in a couple of days and include the panhard bar replacement at the same time.

[jgard07]

Jackstands on the frame rails, jack under the pumpkin. This will help with any line up issues when you go to put the bolts in. Just be careful not to have the jack push on the rear cover. After you put the bolts in, jack up the rear end so almost all the pressure is off the stands and torque the bolts. It can tough to get a torque wrench on the bolts when the car is on the ground much less tighten them.

[1550GT]

Sounds good. I will do that.

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by jgard07

Jackstands on the frame rails, jack under the pumpkin. This will help with any line up issues when you go to put the bolts in. Just be careful not to have the jack push on the rear cover. After you put the bolts in, jack up the rear end so almost all the pressure is off the stands and torque the bolts. It can tough to get a torque wrench on the bolts when the car is on the ground much less tighten them.

Good point... Key is to have the axle loaded before tightening the bolts.

[1550GT]

Thanks for the information. I was more concerned with the bolt holes being lined up more snce I may be doing the install by myself. Loading the suspension prior to torqueing the bolts can be done easily by myself.

[DokterD]

After doing my own according to what instructions I found on forums, this is what I suggest:
Put the jacks under the axle and let them carry the weight.
Put jacking straps on the axle-to-frame to keep the axle from shifting "a little" (LOL) like mine did (over an inch).
The LCAs will fall out as you unbolt the old and the new will slide right in with no help from anyone else.

I followed what I found availble on the internet and I freaked when my axle shifted so far that the axle-end LCA bolt hole was'nt even close to the axle.

[mystang68/05]

To be safe, support the weight of the car on the rails. Remove one control arm at a time. The axle will shift some when you remove the control arm. It can be pushed back into place easily only if the cars weight is not on the axles. Laying on your back you may need a second set of hands in order to line up the holes. If the cars weight is on the axles when you disconnect a control arm, the car will shift, and you could be wearing the car on your chest.

I used two sets of drive on ramps to load the suspension in order to torque the bolts. Now I know I said drive on ramps but you can jack the car up and place the ramps under the wheels. Then let it down on to the ramps. Do not use the ramps under the wheels when changing the control arms!

If you are using poly bushings or even the stock control arms and the suspension is not loaded the bushings will bind when you put the car on the ground. The car needs to be level that is why you will need four of the same type of ramps. It is very important that the suspension be loaded and level when applying the final torque to the bolts.

If you have control arms that have spherical bearings on both ends you do not have to load the suspension in order to apply the final torque. The spherical bearings will rotate freely after they are torqued.

[Nyt_Muves]

Originally Posted by jgard07

Jackstands on the frame rails, jack under the pumpkin. This will help with any line up issues when you go to put the bolts in. Just be careful not to have the jack push on the rear cover. After you put the bolts in, jack up the rear end so almost all the pressure is off the stands and torque the bolts. It can tough to get a torque wrench on the bolts when the car is on the ground much less tighten them.

That is what I did and had great results.

[DokterD]

I did the jack under rails and pumpkin thing and mine shifted quite a bit. That's how I did side one. Side two I did under the axle with straps already installed and loaded and it was a breeze. BUT whatever works is what you need to do regardless of what anyone says.

[1550GT]

I did the install and it was fairly easy. I did not have a problem with anything shifting but I did not have the car level when I torqued the bolts. The suspension was loaded but not level. This is the first time I have heard that the suspension needs to be level as well as loaded. I can't get under there when the car is on the ground, thats why I torqued the bolts while the suspension was loaded by the jackstands.

[bigwilly43729]

I'm starting to suspect that my clunking is coming from a) the suspension not being loaded when I installed them and b) re-using the original bolts. The latter may not matter as much as the former, but as soon as I get some new bolts, I'll get this corrected ASAP.

[Chris D]

I am going to install Steeda LCA's next week. I already have my GT on jack stands and the wheels removed (also installing new Steeda adjustable springs and D-Spec's). One question, the rear brake cable is routed through the stock LCA's on both sides. Any tricks removing the cables?