its do-able with jackstands, if you have the right tools, and a few set of hands. the hardest part was figuring out what to do. we were either going to drop to rear suspension, or figure out some way of pulling the bracket out. then it hit me to try switch the UCA without doing anything to either, and it worked perfectly.
Imagine doing it by yourself and actually lowering the gas tank that was almost full. That was a real pain.
I may email CHE about their instructions. They are a bit misleading IMO.
I was able to follow the CHE instructions. Did it by myself with no air tools and only a T-45 bit! I thought it was pretty well thought out, did it in a couple hours.
How come the back seat has to be removed? Is that to change the UCA bracket or hanger? Does it help do burnouts too?
Yes if you are changing the mount which is a stamped steel piece. The after market pieces are a lot stronger but not necessary for just street fun. If you planning on a lot of track time then I would change it.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
well in our case, one of the bolts was trapped by the gas tank, so even though we were not removing the bracket we had to completely unbolt it, so that we could move the bracket to an able to get the bolt free. once we did that it was simple. under the seat is the bolt for the top of the rear UCA bracket. seats remove very easily and only weigh 10 pounds.
It was very simple, I laughed cause I thought it looked complicated.
as far as burnouts, I would say that yes it helps, because there is virtually no more wheel hop, so now instead of shaking the whole car, it just spun the tires!
Ok, so after driving around for about an hour in my mustang, i was noticing some clunking when I shift.
My friend who helped with the install said most cars do that with this kit. Is this true, and something I must get use to, or is there a way to adjust the clunking noise from normal shifts?
when we torqued the LCA, we had put jackstands under the axle, and put load on it. Pretty much due to the fact the it is almost impossible to get a torque wrench under the car when it sits on the ground.
You may have to replace the bolts/flag nuts. They are one-time use, but many people have gotten away with it. I replaced mine and about 98% of the clunking is gone. I suspect you are getting clunks when you get on it. That is happening to me right now. Before, I was getting clunks if I went over any kind of bump in the road.
im actually only getting clunking when I shift gears.... only when moving, if I push in the clutch and keep it in nuetral and shift from 2-3, 3-4, it clunks.... I'm nut sure what it is! I have a replacement flag bolt, but didn't use it, because all of the bolts looked fine, the nuts all needed to be replaced, because of the rubber sealant they have on the ends, that stretch once a bolt goes through them!
Ok, so after driving around for about an hour in my mustang, i was noticing some clunking when I shift.
My friend who helped with the install said most cars do that with this kit. Is this true, and something I must get use to, or is there a way to adjust the clunking noise from normal shifts?
when we torqued the LCA, we had put jackstands under the axle, and put load on it. Pretty much due to the fact the it is almost impossible to get a torque wrench under the car when it sits on the ground.
Are you sure you've got the UCA jam nut tightened down properly?
On the adjustable part to keep it from moving once installed.
Im pretty sure, we tightened everything as much as we could! Im pretty strong, and I couldn't turn it anymore even with a breaker bar... we couldn't fit the torque wrench up in there.
Im pretty sure, we tightened everything as much as we could! Im pretty strong, and I couldn't turn it anymore even with a breaker bar... we couldn't fit the torque wrench up in there.
Does it help do burnouts too? 
