[Black05Pony]

Even if the AEM manual doesn't specifically say that the intake requires a re-tune, it doesn't specifically say that it does not, right?

A lot of guys that add tune-less intakes report that they feel a little difference in power but its been dyno proven that most intakes produce virtually no increase in horsepower or torque without a custom tune. Like I said, the ECU can adjust but not that much, not enough to make a significant difference, power-wise.

On the other hand, there have been plenty of guys who have custom-tuned their ECU's without an aftermarket intake and gained up to 15rwhp.

All that aside I always say that its better to be safe than sorry: you should spend the money to get the custom tunes and be done with it.

[stlwagon]

Even the BBK (which is supposed to be no tune) indicates that the car may run lean.

[propilotc182]

OK, I put the AEM air filter back on, and went to my buddies work, and took the code off. So far, so good. Drove for about 50 miles, with no light so far. I still have the Amsoil air filter on the blue car, and that hasn't thrown any codes so far. I do know that the computer on the yellow car has to be somewhat different than the blue car, because the yellow car will not start if let set for 7 days. The blue car will at least make it a month. I have had the yellow car at the dealership 4 times, and they could not solve the problem. Their solution was to mount a 'battery tender' on the firewall. So, if I know I won't be driving the car for a week, I have to plug it in! Has this happened to anyone else? I heard that it's a common problem with the new 'stangs (V-6 and GT). Anyone know what the problem is, and if there is a fix for it? I suppose that should be a new 'thread'.

I guess that all this proves that the Amsoil air filter allows more air to come in versus the AEM filter. It probably goes past the ECU's parameters, thus triggering a code. When I can afford to get a tuner, then I'll put the Amsoil filter back on.

Thanks for all the help......John

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by propilotc182

OK, I put the AEM air filter back on, and went to my buddies work, and took the code off. So far, so good. Drove for about 50 miles, with no light so far. I still have the Amsoil air filter on the blue car, and that hasn't thrown any codes so far. I do know that the computer on the yellow car has to be somewhat different than the blue car, because the yellow car will not start if let set for 7 days. The blue car will at least make it a month. I have had the yellow car at the dealership 4 times, and they could not solve the problem. Their solution was to mount a 'battery tender' on the firewall. So, if I know I won't be driving the car for a week, I have to plug it in! Has this happened to anyone else? I heard that it's a common problem with the new 'stangs (V-6 and GT). Anyone know what the problem is, and if there is a fix for it? I suppose that should be a new 'thread'.

I guess that all this proves that the Amsoil air filter allows more air to come in versus the AEM filter. It probably goes past the ECU's parameters, thus triggering a code. When I can afford to get a tuner, then I'll put the Amsoil filter back on.

Thanks for all the help......John

The battery drain has been rumored to be related to drain from the stereo system if the car is shut down before turning off the amp. There have been other reports that the security system is causing this...

[propilotc182]

OK,

A quick update on the check engine light. I've been driving the yellow car all this week, and no code! So, what I said before must be true, the Amsoil filter lets in more air, that must go beyond the ECU's parameters, thus triggering a code.

Now, about the battery drain. I have had the car at the dealership 4 times, and I've even contacted Ford in Detroit about the problem. I had a 'case worker' who had me leave the car at the dealership for 15 days. She said that if they could not find the drain, then they will install the battery minder. She did say something to me that was interesting. She said there was a similar case, and one of the techs drove the car home. He went in his garage to get something, and heard this 'clicking' noise coming from the car. It turns out that the CD changer kept on shuffling the CD's around, thus draining the battery. Since I had CD's in the changer, I was worried that if that was the problem, the dealership would not take the time to remove the CD's if they did switch changers, so I removed them. I told the service writer to put in some 'junk' CD's to try it out, but I'm guessing he never did. I have since never left any CD's in the changer when the car was off, but the battery still drains. So much for that being the problem.

I just had to replace the battery in the blue car, it's only 4 years old! (it was built on 09/04, and in service 10/04) I bought an 85 month interstate. Let's see how long that lasts! All I can say is something is wrong with the electronics on these cars. I have a '98 Ford van, and sometimes it sits for months without being started. It ALWAYS starts right up when I need it! That's got a computer on it. What gives?

What is the security system exactly? I always thought that it was just that blinking LED light, on the dash, to 'scare' off potential thieves. I know LED's hardly use any juice, so could that be the problem? What else can it be?

Thanks, John

[chris12398]

on almost every car Ive put a CAI in, prob 50+ I blow the inside of the filter with compressed air, and its funny the cloud of oil from the filter that comes off. When you run your engine and get it hott with the new filters, there was oil that most likely got into the MAF like earlier stated. I would clean the MAF. It would never matter what filter is on there, stock or otherwise. Stock is restrictive and doesnt throw a code, MAF should compensate for all that. Ive actually heard of and seen problems with CAI with copper plugs or single platinum plugs. I would change them as well. Your 02 Isnt liking the new readouts that the CAI's are providing. My solution is to clean the MAF, Change the plugs to double platinum and remove your + battery cable for at least 20 min then restart your engine and drive at least 25 miles, shutting the car off randomly at least 5 times. This should reset the computer and provide basic tables. If you still throw a code it shouldnt be the CAI's

[chris12398]

To answer your battery tender issue, heres what Ford says::

TSB 07-5-13
03/19/07
DISCHARGED BATTERIES - VEHICLES IN
STORAGE/LIMITED USAGE

FORD:
2005-2008 Mustang
2005 Explorer Sport Trac
2005-2008 Expedition, Explorer
2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac

LINCOLN:
2005-2008 Navigator

MERCURY:
2005-2008 Mountaineer

ISSUE
Some 2005-2008 Mustang , Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, Expedition, Navigator, 2005 Explorer Sport Trac and 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac vehicles may experience a no start and have a discharged battery. They are usually stored for prolonged periods of time or are driven infrequently for short distances. Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time, 30 days or more, vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw.

ACTION
Follow the Service Tips steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE TIPS
1.Charging system diagnostics and battery draw test are located in Workshop Manual, Section 414-00.
2.Discharged batteries need to be properly recharged following the procedures in TSB 07-5-8.
3.All modern automobiles have several micro processors in their electrical system that will draw small amounts of electrical current when the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps).
4.The more discharged a battery becomes, the more susceptible it is to permanent damage. This is more likely in low temperatures (below 32 °F (0 °C).

Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time (30 days or more), vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw.
NOTE ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC ACCESSORIES OR COMPONENTS ADDED TO THE VEHICLE BY THE DEALER OR BY THE OWNER WILL INCREASE THE CURRENT DRAW LOADS AND ADVERSELY AFFECT BATTERY PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY.

5.The vehicle's charging system is designed to supply the vehicle's electrical power needs and maintain the battery to near full charge during normal vehicle use. The charging system is not capable of bringing a deeply discharged battery back to near full charge in a short amount of time such as allowing the vehicle to idle for 15 minutes to "recharge the battery" or from short drive cycles.
6.Short drive cycles will only provide a small surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge a battery that is fully discharged requires operating the vehicle for approximately two (2) hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM.
7.Vehicles that are stored for extended periods or are driven infrequently for short distances may need to use an auxiliary battery maintainer/charger that is expressly designed to maintain the battery state of charge during storage. These maintainers/chargers are available in the automotive aftermarket and should be used according to their manufacturer's direction.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 07-05-8
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable

[propilotc182]

Chris,

Thanks for writing. I have been told the same thing by Ford. And, like I said, the blue car will last about a month (according to Ford, that's normal) before the battery goes dead, but the yellow car only lasts a week. And, I MEAN a week exactly! If it's 8 days, it will not start! Almost like it's on a timer. Now, even according to Ford, that's unusual. That's why they put on the battery minder, I guess to keep me quiet. One of the times it was in there, they at least put in a new battery. Of course, they said it was fixed, but 7 days later, it was on a flatbed going back to them!

Now, on the CAI's, none of the filters were 'oil bath' type. The AEM filter is dry, but requires soap and water to clean. The only reason I went with the Amsoil filter is because to clean, all you have to do is either vacuum, or use compressed air. The Amsoil filter is also dry. They used to have oil, like K&N's, but not anymore. I did clean the MAF anyway, but with the Amsoil filter, the check engine light still came on. Now, with the AEM filter back on, no codes! I still have the Amsoil filter on the blue car, and my S-10 Blazer, both have not thrown codes. I guess just the ECU in the yellow car is more sensitive (maybe also something to do with the battery going dead after 7 days?).

Now, I have been thinking of taking the 'junk' Autolite platinum plugs out, and putting in Bosch +4's. I know the factory plugs are junk from my van. Only 70k miles (the plugs were supposed to be 100k plugs) I changed the plugs because it was running rough (and with it having a V-10, thats pretty bad!). When I put the +4's in, it smoothed right out! Like night and day! I actually tried those E-3 plugs, but they were junk! I tried them on my old car, and it ran worse! I put the Bosch back in, and it ran good. I'll never buy E-3's again!


I was told the same TSB from the dealership, on the battery drain. I can only say that Ford needs to do something different with their ECU's. Like I said, I can not start my van for months, and when I need it, it starts right up. It just isn't right.

Thanks, John

[chris12398]

Yea I think that it only lasting a week is weird. Are they the SAME audio system in both cars, SAME keyless Entry, any remote start? Also where the ECU is located there are a few grounds that easily corrode or loosen with the lovely nince bolts ford uses, Id give those a tighten too. Furthermore those +4's Ive never really had any luck with, They alwasy seem to make the car run choppy especially with mod's. I ALWAYS use Boch Platinum 2's and they work wonders. Dont believe what they say about capacitive discharge plugs they dont work.

The reason is the Capacitor takes time to charge and release the spark energy and often times is toooo late from an ordinary plug when it fires. So what it actually is doing is retarding your spark!

I would go on strike with ford and if you check all those things I would ask them for a new ECU, My best guess is with 7-8 days your amp isnt turning off or a dimmer light is being left on (like a hood opening light) or something stupid, but def as them for a new ecu, could be giving juice, I would have them do a load test with the car off see where that juice is going!

[propilotc182]

Chris,

Supposedly, when the car was at the dealership, they did all the necessary checks, and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. At least that's the line they fed me. I will check those bolts, though. Hopefully, I'll be surprised, and a loose bolt was the culprit all along! Both cars have the Shaker 500. I didn't want the 1000, because I really don't listen to the radio that much, and I didn't want the subwoofer's to take up precious trunk space. the 6 CD changer is nice, though. They both have the keyless entry, but neither has the remote start. I had that on an old Buick Roadmaster I owned, and it was nothing but an headache. I've heard from other people that had remote starts on cars (one was on a fox body 'stang like yours), and how it kept draining the battery. Both 'stangs are pretty much identical, with the exception that the yellow one has the leather steering wheel, and the billet wheel center, and shifter.

On both that Buick, and on my van, the plus 4's worked fine. I had no mods on the Buick, and have none on the van. I only run the regular Bosch on my old car (a 1977 LTD with a 400M), because they don't make plus 2's, or plus 4's for it. But, on your advice, I might try the plus 2's on the 'stangs. I don't want to stop with only the CAI's. Eventually, I want to put on JBA headers, and dual exhaust on both. That's why I like these forums, you can always learn something!

Thanks,

John

[chris12398]

I personally have been ranting and ravving about Optima Spiral Cell Batteries. I usually go right to AutoZone and get one, $120(May be the last battery you ever buy for the Stang). I would give that a shot.

It's ironic because in both my mustangs I originally had the stock battery. I since had changed in both to whatever DIE Hards best is and it was stock size and everything. Well, car ran like crap and it wouldn't have nearly the juice the previous now discharged one had. With a replacement from Optima In both cars, I could drive my car with the belt off for around 20 min if I wanted to thats how good they are. If you get one and your Mustang still dies, you can get your money back on that Optima, Absolutley worth a shot I should have mentioned that all earlier! Let me know!

[propilotc182]

Chris,

Not a bad idea for the yellow car, but too late for the blue car. Like I said, I just bought an interstate 85 month for it. But, won't I be going to Autozone every week exchanging batteries? Unless I have a battery the size of the car, it will still die (maybe 10 days instead of 7), but it WILL still die, right? Also, one of the times it was at the dealer, they supposedly put in a new battery. Kind of seems like a waste, if I still have 2-3 years left on this one. Not a bad idea, but it sounds like only a band-aid, not the cure.

John

[chris12398]

I wouldn't say an Optima is a "regular" battery. Instead of going with a RedTop invest in the Deep Cycle YellowTop. It has more than enough juice in CCA and it is stock size. They only come in 2 sizes! They are "universal". I would almost bet that your problem will dissapear.

I think soon someday when Optima's patent runs out, the design will be stock in all cars soon, its just a better battery. I have like 4 of them and I swear by them, even if I have a brand new any brand I get an Optima. Like I siad before your belt could snap and your battery could get you home....Could your other battery do that????

Let me know I love when I get a customer on the Optima side and solves all electrical issues. Im sure the guys with 87-93's and even others have had similar problems on their cars. Like when the alternator seems to not be giving enough juice and you have the blower on and the headlights dim as well as the turn signals haha, you know what I mean! They dissapear with an Optima, thats what got me to them anyways!

[BullMeister]

Originally Posted by chris12398

I wouldn't say an Optima is a "regular" battery. Instead of going with a RedTop invest in the Deep Cycle YellowTop. It has more than enough juice in CCA and it is stock size. They only come in 2 sizes! They are "universal". I would almost bet that your problem will dissapear.

I think soon someday when Optima's patent runs out, the design will be stock in all cars soon, its just a better battery. I have like 4 of them and I swear by them, even if I have a brand new any brand I get an Optima. Like I siad before your belt could snap and your battery could get you home....Could your other battery do that????

Let me know I love when I get a customer on the Optima side and solves all electrical issues. Im sure the guys with 87-93's and even others have had similar problems on their cars. Like when the alternator seems to not be giving enough juice and you have the blower on and the headlights dim as well as the turn signals haha, you know what I mean! They dissapear with an Optima, thats what got me to them anyways!

You've been lucky with the Optimas then. I tried three of them before giving up on them and sticking in a Champion instead. One was bad right out of the box, one wouldn't take a charge and the third only lasted about two months in the daily driver before it died and wouldn't take a charge.

About 2 weeks ago I was in an office up in Vail and one of the employees there was on the phone trying to get his money back on an Optima battery because after three months it wouldn't hold a charge for him either. The arqument on the phone was because he didn't want a direct replacement. He wanted his money back for the battery and wanted to buy a different brand instead.

Needless to say, my opinion of Optima batteries is less than stellar.

[propilotc182]

Scott,

I've never owned an Optima, so I have no opinion of them. But, I don't think that alone is going to solve my problem of the battery going dead after the car sits for 7 days, right? Like I told Chris, if anything, it's just a 'band aid', not the cure.
John