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Old 10-29-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2005 V-6 O2 sensor code triggering check engine light. Please help!

HI,

I have 2 '05 V-6 Mustangs, both with 20k on them. I'm getting check engine lights on both. The one I had scanned. It was for both O2 sensors bad. I haven't had the other one scanned yet. The cars are basically stock, with the exception of AEM brute force air intakes on each. I did replace the AEM filters, with AMSOIL powersports filters. Other than having both cars with all AMSOIL products in them (crancase, tranny, and diff), there are no other aftermarket products installed. I looked up the one on Ford.com for recalls, and it shows none. I know the gas filler problem wasn't a recall, but a TSB. Does anyone know if there are any TSB's on O2 sensors? Any idea why I'm getting these codes? With the MAP sensor 'downstream' of the air filter, there would be no reason for the air filters to be the cause, right? I was thinking that maybe the car was getting 'too much' air? Can that happen? Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks, John
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Old 10-30-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Did the cars throw codes shortly after you changed something? Like the air filters?
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Old 10-30-2008   #3 (permalink)
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In my mind, the cold air intakes/filters might be the problem. Did you have the car retuned for the extra air you have it sucking up? How about this..... Can you reset the CEL (go to Autozone or a place like that and use their tool to reset it), and install the stock airbox/filter. See if the problems comes back. I mean, it might be bad O2 sensors, but both at the same time, on two vehicles??? Not likely... I think it is the AEM that's causing it, if the car is not custom tuned for it.... Just my 2 cents worth... Good luck!
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Old 11-01-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for writing back! I'll try to answer both people at once here. On the one car, the light came on right after I installed the Amsoil powersports air filter. That's the same car that I had scanned, and it specifically said that both O2 sensors are bad. I went and bought a couple, and will be installing them today. On the other car, I had it scanned a couple days ago, and it still says O2 bank 1 and 2, but it was a little more vague, not saying sensor 1 on both banks like the other car. After reading possible causes on the scan tool, it actually said something about having the car run while fueling. I've been doing that for over 20 years! But, apparently, I can't do that anymore. I cleared the code, and so far it hasn't come back on. I guess when I fuel, I'll shut off the engine! I will be scanning the first car (with the precise codes) again before I change the o2's, just to make sure.

In answer to the other question, no, I haven't had the cars re-tuned after installing the CAI's. I was under the impression that I didn't have to. I even talked to Amsoil's technical service department, and they told me that the MAP sensor will adjust to compensate for the added air. He told me that I could run the car with no air filter, and the MAP would adjust for that. I asked him if it would go beyond the parameters set in the ECU, and he said no. I don't know if that's right, but that's what he said. If I do have to get a tuner, which one is the best bang for the buck? I would like to get one that can also change the air/fuel ratio. I'm also experimenting with HHO (Hydrogen generators), and will eventually put one on the stang's. I currently have one installed in my 1 ton Ford van with the V-10. Have had troubles with O2's, and the unit itself, but now have all that straightened out. I don't drive it far enough one way for it to get warmed up enough for the hydrogen to really work, so my MPG is not up. I'm still doing some testing on it.

Just a note: CCDGUY; I really like your car. How did you get so much RWHP? I gotta know!
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Old 11-01-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Did you have the car scanned to determine the code. That would help. Autozone will do it for free.
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Old 11-01-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Yes, I have a buddy who works at a garage, and has a nice scan tool. On the one, it specifically said O2 sensor 1 bank 1, and sensor 1, bank 2. On the other one, it just said bank 1 and 2. On that one, once we erased the code, it has stayed off. On the other one, once we erased the codes, it came right back. Again, I will be scanning the one with the specific code before I switch the sensors. Thanks.
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Old 11-01-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Before you go to the hassle of replacing O2 sensors (being on the exhaust they get rusted in place and can be a real bear to break loose) put the stock air filter back in, clear the codes and drive it.

You put the filters on and immediately both vehicles threw fits. Looks pretty obvious to me what caused the problem. If it runs fine after putting the stock filter back in, get a tuner and a custom tune for the vehicles and don't put the filters back in until you do. You might be running lean with the new filters in. The tune is where most of the power you see on CCDGUYs car came from. A custom tune will give you the biggest bang for your buck as far as power and performance goes for the V6's.
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Old 11-01-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Is that CAI even designed to run w/o a tune?
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Old 11-01-2008   #9 (permalink)
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The new filters could also have misted the MAF sensor if they were heavily oiled.
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Old 11-01-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullMeister View Post
The new filters could also have misted the MAF sensor if they were heavily oiled.
True... But my guess is the DTC is from a lean condition.
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Old 11-01-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon View Post
True... But my guess is the DTC is from a lean condition.
That was my first guess too.

Propilotc 182, stick the stock filters back in and see what you get.
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Old 11-02-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Well guys, got some interesting news. First off, I've had the CAI's on the cars for some time. The only thing I've done recently is changed the AEM air filters with Amsoil's powersports filters. That is when the light came on intermittently with the yellow car. The light just came on recently with the blue car. After re-setting the ECU on the blue car, the light has not come back on. Now, I didn't change the 02's on the yellow car. I talked to another tech, and he said that my MAP sensor could be dirty, or bad. I had my buddy's scanner hooked up, and was driving it while I was on the phone with the tech. I was telling him what the scanner was saying, both 02's were going up and down in voltage, and both were going between rich, and lean. He told me that nothing is wrong with the 02's, going on that information. That's why he told me to clean/replace the MAP. So, I took some cleaner, and cleaned it. I put it back on, and so far (fingers crossed) no light! I only drove it 11 miles home, with no light, but I will be driving it some today. I'll keep you posted.

I know one of you said something about the oil from the filter doing something to the MAP. Well, the AEM filter is a dry filter. That's why I went with it, over K&N. I put the Amsoil filters on because not only do they flow better, but there is virtually no cleaning involved. With the AEM, you have to wash it. On the Amsoil, all that's involved is either blowing it out (if you have compressed air), or vacuuming it if you don't have a compressor. Neither one use oil. Amsoil used to, but now with their new line of air filters, they all are dry. If I knew Amsoil was going to come out with their own line of CAI's, I would have bought that instead of the AEM to start with.

Hopefully, all is now well with the little pony's. I will be cleaning the MAP on the blue car, just to make sure no more lights come on. Thanks for all your input. New cars are nothing but a learning curve for an 'old timer' like me.

John
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Old 11-02-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Is the AEM Brute Force advertised as an intake that does not require a custom re-tune to run correctly? If not then did you have the car custom tuned for the intakes?

If the answer to both of those questions is no then you need to take the intakes off both of those cars and don't put them back on until you have a custom tune for each of them. Intakes that are not designed to be run without a tune will cause your engine to run 'lean' (too much air, not enough fuel). The ECU will compensate for the air difference to a point but you can go past its limit and run your car lean.

And just because you don't have any check engine lights or trouble codes does not mean your car isn't running lean.
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Old 11-02-2008   #14 (permalink)
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I just checked AEM's website, and downloaded the instruction manual, and nowhere in it does it say to have the vehicle re-tuned.

Unfortunately, the check engine light came on today. It seems to come on right after I hear some engine "pinging" at a steady speed. I talked to my tech guy, and he said that something is causing that to happen, that the computer should re-adjust the timing to compensate. He still thinks it's the MAP sensor.

Now, before I hear about changing the intake back to stock, I have to say that I've had this CAI on for over a year. I guess I could put the AEM filter back on, because it seemed that it started after I put the Amsoil filter on. So, if that is the case, then I guess I will have to get the car re-tuned, because the Amsoil filter has a better flow? Or, is it just coincidence that the MAP sensor started to go bad after I put the Amsoil filter on? It is only happening to the yellow car. The light has not come back on the blue car. Both cars have the same everything; CAI, Amsoil filter, etc. If it is the filter, or the CAI, shouldn't the light come back on the blue car? I'm still waiting for my tech guy to get back to me. He was supposed to talk to his "Ford guy", and call me back. I'll keep everyone up to date once I talk to him.

John
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Old 11-02-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Clean your MAFs with some CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Then revert back to the old filters and see if the DTCs trigger again.
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