but on the 05 V6 basicly heres what i did, sorry no parts list, perfect tool list ect..but it took me 4 days due to frying my car out and haveing to order parts then a severe rain storm
tools
pry bar
13 and 15 mm sockets and wrenches
12 mm metric
tq wrench
8mm wrench
trans jack
loctite ( blue kind only )
UNHOOK BETTERY!
basicly unbolt the drive shaft i think its a 12 MM metric
back the drive shaft with a etched in line! chalk rubs off.
i took mine apart at the trans.
then losen motor mounts. drop the cross member.
take out bell houseing bolts some can be trickey. a 2 foot extention is nice.
then unhook shifter and o2 sensors and 2 clips on the driver side.
unhook the hydro line insert screw driver to pop tab out.
unhook starter
drop trans.
take off pressure plate and then flywheel
have flywheel resurfaced
using blue loctite,bolt up flywheel tq to 10 FT lbs in a star pattern then 50 FT lbs in star pattern.
ford says use new bolts i used mine
put clutch on with alignment tool
put pressure palte on
jack trans up bolt in
add hydro line
bleed it like you would brakes. bolt up drive shaft.
good to go!
now sorry this is skimpy but after day 1 i gave up on writeing guide.
PM me if you have any questions!
__________________
i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
Did an install of coil, plugs and wires today exactly as you described and the stang is running lousy. Rough idle and no power at take off from stop. I immediately assumed I had wires mixed but i've checked them a dozen times and confirmed that spark is getting to all plugs. What else could I be missing!?
make sure all the connections are good. make sure the front pattern is right
make sure your gapped to .60-.65
check the pattern again, even though spark may be getting there.... the pattern may be off. im willing to bet my money that your middle wire inteh front is backwards.
in the back ( pass to driver side ) i think its 1 2 3
then in the front 5 6 4
ill go double check. when the threads all go tmoved here all my pictures to EVERYTHING got deleted lol
good luck!
__________________
i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
here you go, to the 4 of you who asked me...
what a difference $168 well spent! no brainer
estamated time 30-45 minutes
step 1 make a map of fireing order /wire location ( see picture one )
step 2 remove all plug wires, on the passenger side theres a bolt that holds the radiator hose frame on , remove this bolt to get wire number 1 out (see picture 2)
step 3 unplug all wires from coil and plugs.
step 4 remove 4 bolts on top of the old coil, do not drop them it took me 20 minutes to get it out behind the fuel rail, i dont have grabbers or a magnet.
step 5 set on the new coil, put all 4 bolts in, dont forget to put the ground wire you took off back on!
(see picture 3)
next replace plugs or leave the old ones in ( gap to 0.65 )
next apply your live wires. or old spark wires in to correct positions useing the numbered wire to the correct cyl and coil position.
useing the supplied protectant, coat the plug porciln and wire boot.
plug boots in to plugs and your off to the races!!!!
(see picture 4)
coil map.bmp is picture 1 dunno why its diff good luck guys
on the spark plug gapping tool ( a circle with a slight angle all the way around getting bigger and bigger )
the stock gap for a 2005 V6 mustang is .42
gapping to .65 means the gap inbetween the orange elctrode and the black ground is bigger.
think of static. your finger has to be really close to the door knob to make a shock right?
well if you were to amp up the static, you could shock the door knob from farther away.
this relates to plug gap. your finger is the orange electrode, the doorknob is the black ground. since the aftermarket coil produces more voltage, ( more power ) you can make the gap bigger.
__________________
i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
if you have a stock ignition box, put in the bosch and enjoy. they are a great plug and they do not need gapped.
if you have an aftermarket spark box with higher voltage, return those bosch and keep it single ground and gap the tar out of it, to manufactures standards..
example.
my plug gap calls for .42 stock.
the new coil calls for .60-.65 ( i went .65) why would i put in a .30 gapped multi ground plug?
the more gap, the more power you can get, does it matter much... no... but every drop helps.
the 2+ + are good for high reving engines when a misfire is potential due to lack of ground. with a single ground plug ( standard plug ) its forced in to the only gapped ground there.
__________________
i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
Tools needed,
10 MM deepwell ratchet
flathead screw driver
SAFTEY GLASSES
Gloves if you want.
1. Jack up drivers side
2. WEARING SAFTEY GLASSES Remove the 2 10 MM nuts front and back,and the one 10 MM bolt below the filter
i left the front 10 MM bolt in.
3. pry down the plastic cover from the back, again i left attached to the front.
4.unbolt 10 MM bolt holding fuel filter.
5. Push in the GREEN tab on the REAR of the fuel filter where it hooks to the hose.
once you clear the ring, pull it off, GAS WILL FLOW OUT! it wasent alot, i just let it drain.
6. Repeat to front.
7. slide fuel filter out of the holder ring, replace, with new filter.
8. push tubes back on the filter
9. rebolt
10. turn the key on ( but do not start ) and off 3 times to prime the lines. ( or just start a cranking )
total time 10 minutes.
__________________
i have yet to find some one else who when changing their oil ( every 2000 miles or when they get bored ) details the under side of their car.
X-C April 2010,Heads, Cam,Internals April 2011, or blown engine, witch ever comes first.
The transformation has begun!
Put old coil back in with new plugs and wires and everything works fine again. Looks like a bad coil.
The problem was indeed a defective coil/distributor. Performance Distributors replaced the defective Sreamin Deamon coil. The even paid all shipping charges. New coil worked perfectly.
good luck guys
