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Old 06-29-2009   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by avery_012 View Post
Just throwing this out there, but when we replaced my clutch last week, we didn't need to loosen the motor mounts at all.....
its not a nesesity, but loosening up will give you some play to work with, and wont stress the mounts when the trans drops, and is still hooked to the engine
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Old 06-30-2009   #62 (permalink)
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Ok, cool. We used a floor jack to prevent any stress. It was funny because we forgot one of the bellhousing bolts, and we were like why isn't this thing coming off of here???
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Old 06-30-2009   #63 (permalink)
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Ok, cool. We used a floor jack to prevent any stress. It was funny because we forgot one of the bellhousing bolts, and we were like why isn't this thing coming off of here???

haha been there done that.

its always hardest the first time!
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I have six dead bolt locks on my front door. when i leave the house i lock every other one, that way no matter how much someone picks them, they are always locking three.
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Old 07-19-2009   #64 (permalink)
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Ever since i got the car with 11,000 miles and with a frpp cat-back i'm having a bit of a rough idle sometimes, especially when the a/c is on or after i accelerate hard. however i dont feel any missing power from take off or so but i cant really judge cause i got the car like that. could that b a case of bad coils? or is it more likely because of the cat-back?
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Old 07-19-2009   #65 (permalink)
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Ever since i got the car with 11,000 miles and with a frpp cat-back i'm having a bit of a rough idle sometimes, especially when the a/c is on or after i accelerate hard. however i dont feel any missing power from take off or so but i cant really judge cause i got the car like that. could that b a case of bad coils? or is it more likely because of the cat-back?

the cat back wont be the issue.

you still have O2 sensors correct?

i am ASSUMING your talking about a V6 since its the V6 area, it could be a bad coil, but i would start by checking, plug gap, plug and wire connections, etc etc. is it throwing any codes?

ill do a little more research and see what i can find out, in the mean time post another thread and ask for help, someone may have had the same problem
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Old 07-19-2009   #66 (permalink)
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Yeah i'm talking about the V6, and the reason i asked is because i thought it is more likely to b just vibrations from one of the mufflers. Car is not throwing anything and runs smooth, but 2day a friend of mine drove with me and he said it sounds like a bad coil to him.
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Old 07-19-2009   #67 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlonShalev View Post
Yeah i'm talking about the V6, and the reason i asked is because i thought it is more likely to b just vibrations from one of the mufflers. Car is not throwing anything and runs smooth, but 2day a friend of mine drove with me and he said it sounds like a bad coil to him.

yea.

well id check plugs and wires what year is it?

if its an 05+ if you do what we talked about ill give you a good coil for free lol.
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Old 07-25-2009   #68 (permalink)
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Default wireing in relay.

quick write up for installing fog lights.


you Can use this to install anything electrical, just use a keyed ignition or something

get this Bosch relay.

86 87 85 30


get a holder mount the holder somewhere.


tap a wire in to number 30 go 14 inches put a fuse then 14 more inches then tie in to the battery.


tap a wire in to 85, and ground it somewhere to a motor ground if you can, but a body ground will work.

now wire your fog lights together and then run their + in to pin number 87, then ground your fog lights to a body ground or engine ground.


now find what wire going to the running lights turns them on, BE SURE NOT TO TAP IN TO TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS


this can be done by using a 12 V test light.

tap in to that wire, and tie it in to pin number 86.


vola!


put in your fuse, hook up your battery and your off to the races.


you can also take a wire from 86, in to the drivers compartment put in a manual switch in the glove box, then run another wire to the battery as well for manual turn on and off
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I have six dead bolt locks on my front door. when i leave the house i lock every other one, that way no matter how much someone picks them, they are always locking three.
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Old 07-26-2009   #69 (permalink)
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I really appreciate your help with this writeup. I have no wiring experience but I printed your step by step and followed it and in about 45 mins my fogs were working and and installed properly!! Thanks again!
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Old 07-27-2009   #70 (permalink)
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Default How to Save the Day

1. Wrap exhaust manifolds in packing paper.
2. Put exhaust manifolds in aptly named box.
3. Seal box up with tape and label address.
4. Place box in Mustang.
5. Go to post office and mail box.

Total time involved was roughly 15 minutes because of a line at the post office. Cost, $16 for shipping and $4 for insurance.
Tools needed: 1. Car 2. A helping hand.

Expect to see results in 4-5 days.
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Old 07-27-2009   #71 (permalink)
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thats an awesome write up avery!! way to save the day!
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Old 08-08-2009   #72 (permalink)
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Default Timeing a 4.0L SOHC

well i re timed my SOHC



tools needed

SAFETY GLASSES

TQ wrench ( at 63 lbs )

ford 4.0L timing set from 3.0-5.4L see link below

basic hand tools.


any time either cam is disturbed the whole engine must be timed over.


it MUST BE DONE WITH THIS TOOL
OTC 6488 Ford Cam Tool Kit OTC6488

i have one i will loan out for free, that i bought, with proper deposit ($225 + shipping..225 minus shipping will be returned to you. )

you can find the how too here.

Ford Service Manuals - ASSEMBLY

you can also find out firring orders tolerances and ANYTHING about the 4.0 sohc here if you look around.


basically time the right side with the TDC tool in with the #1 cyl ( front left ) up top. and the compression lobe off and exhaust about to go on. then the # 4 cyl front right is next.


when #1 is TDC on compression stroke ( about to go to exhaust stroke ) the #4 cyl piston should be all the way down on intake stroke.

intake lobe is below the intake port and fuel injector on the block, exhaust lobe is above the exhaust port.

once u time right take all tools off and time the left head cam ( drivers side )


then put together.


since this is such an intense project. if you need help or have questions PM me.


total time about 3 hours ( took me 4 days , 2 of witch with out tool and 2 with tool but now that i fond out how to do it it makes since.


so basically this how to isn't detailed, but you can PM me to borrow the cam timing kit and get help.

the 4.0 tool works on a TON of ford engines from a 3.0- 5.4L


V6 fireign order 1 4 2 5 3 6


front passenger is 1 and middle passenger is 2 and rear passenger is 3

other side is 4 5 6 front to back

valves from front to rear at TDC should be I E I E I E

valves from front to rear on passenfer side E I E I E I


total mechanical skill about a 8
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Old 08-17-2009   #73 (permalink)
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05horse helped me troubleshoot when i had a wiring problem...wouldn't have been able to do it without him!
thanks so much for your help, like i said, if i ever have a question, you're the first im gonna ask!

this guy has a wealth of knowledge, try him if you cant figure something out yourself, he'll help you through it.
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Old 08-24-2009   #74 (permalink)
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Default 4.0L spark plug order

here is the order of spark plugs on the 4.0 2005+
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Old 08-25-2009   #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heartychristian View Post
thanks..........................................
don't forget to fill the oil filter with oil before you put the new one on. Open up the box the filter came in, an FL820S Motorcraft, flip the filter so the threaded end is up, and dump in oil a few times until it will take no more. Wipe a little clean oil on the rubber gasket. Then carefully manuver it up to the cleaned mating surface on your engine. Don't over tighten and warp the gasket, just finger tight is plenty. This way when you first start your car your engine won't run dry while the filter fills.
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me; 05 black GT. manual trans, Shaker 1000, NSP stainless axlebacks, FIA/Shelby stripes, so far
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