[akrvp]

Ok,

I have a 2006 V6 mustang with 44000 miles, I have serviced my car at the local dealer for most of my service except the occasional oil change.
In feb of this year I had my mustang serviced at the dealership and everything was great. multi point inspection said brakes were in the green and all was ok. less than 6000 miles later and 3 months I suffered a catistrophic falure of the rear breaks (metal on metal, no break pads left with no warning). my question is do I have any recourse with Ford or the dealership, I love my car but this is something I never heard of(rear breaks going befor the front).

George

[burnrubber4.0]

did u have any symptoms of your brakes going bad? no scraping, squealing, squeaking, or anything of any kind? do you do a lot of high speed decelerations or anything extreme? mine right now scrape just enough to get annoying...especially when they get hot. i think its my rotors tho...my brake pads all around are at least 80%. i get just a tad bit of wobble when i slow down too...another symptom of warped brake pads.

[05horse]

Originally Posted by burnrubber4.0

do you do a lot of high speed decelerations or anything extreme?

i do i do!!!!!!!!


Welcome to the forums, you should have herd some grinding or scraping, as it gets worse, but i see where you are coming from my sister wore almost 1/16 an inch off her freaking rotor.


if it was a bad grind id bet it was only on one side? a pad could have broke and shattered under heat if it had a fault line in it.


best just to replace them and the rotors ( or have them blanched if they aren't that bad ) and go on.


heres a link to the garage on how to do front brakes, rear should be similar to that, allthough i hear something about screwing the calipers in. i dont know


http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ml#post1436737

[amustangrocks]

welcome to the forums, callipers can go bad and hang up. you could pull it apart, make sure everything is clean, turn the rotors if needed and replace the pads. the rears are a little tricky. you cant just use a c clamp to push the piston back in. its a turn and push thing. here was my first attemp at the rears, front were no problem. with the right tool, the rears are no problem either. clean around the pistons and seals before you do anything. also, if your e brake cable slightly froze, which is very common on these cars, that could wipe them out and fast.ckeck the rubber boots where the ebrake cables connect to the calippers for cracks, that where water gets in and freezes
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ce-ordeal.html

[Rick Raymond]

My daughter's '05 l/h rear was metal to metal at only 38K mi and she drives like her grandmother. The ebrake freeze issue might be the issue, I live in Seattle w/ snow/ice... However, I was told by the shop that the ebrake rotor was internal to the rotor housing and not the same surface as the external standard brakes??? Anyone know?

[amustangrocks]

Originally Posted by Rick Raymond

My daughter's '05 l/h rear was metal to metal at only 38K mi and she drives like her grandmother. The ebrake freeze issue might be the issue, I live in Seattle w/ snow/ice... However, I was told by the shop that the ebrake rotor was internal to the rotor housing and not the same surface as the external standard brakes??? Anyone know?

no extra internals there. the ebrake presses the brake pads to the rotor. i have a couple cracks in my rubber boots, mine froze up on the 05 twice this past winter and the 06 froze up too but got new cables under warenty. i`ll have to replace my cables this summer, about 100 for the parts, maybe a little less.

[05horse]

yea the cables are $51 a piece, i just carry a set of chalks with me