You definetly need to start taking time in between runs to cool the car. You'd be amazed at what it will do for your times! By the number of passes you made and your statement it almost looks like you hot lapped the car!
When I go to the track I might make 3 passes all night! I don't go till everything is right!
If the track has power I always bring one or two fans to put on the motor between runs. If the track doesn't have power (electrical outlets available) I bring a small generator.
I put a bag of ice on the blower (in your case a bag on the intake). I ice the intercooler. Heck, I go through 8 bags of ice a night!
I check tire pressure before every run!
I use the time while my car is cooling to watch other cars. I see what the faster cars are doing. Are doing a longer burnout, putting more heat in the tires? Where are they hooking up, make sure I know where the groove is at. I watch which lane is producing the best times, which one is hooking up the best.
Remember that getting good times is more then just driving the car well, it also means you need to prep the car well!
The biggest thing is that if you don't cool the car down good you never really see your best times! The first pass is always a little sketchy, like your nocking the rust off a little. The next pass you might have your game on but the car is so heat soaked it doesn't show. Then frustration sets in and you start to change things that don't need to be changed. I've been down that road myself!
Exactly how long should i let my prettymuch stock car cool down? What exact tire pressure should the rears be? Dont mess with fronts right? I didnt hot lap the car, but the lines were huge, i left the hood open, and pushed the car ALL the way around. you are right, basically minus my first pass, it was my best..(i dont know if i posted them up right order) but then i got pissed and it just went from there.. it kinda dissapointed me a bit.. i was hoping to see a 13.6.. atleast. Oh yeah, i did some burnouts, figured on my street tires it would be pointless, and yes it proved to be right.. Each time i did a nice azz burnout, i ran slower, lost a good amount on my 60ft.. how? beats the **** out of me..
Quote:
Originally Posted by forensicsteve
Probably have similar temps/humidity here in south Louisiana. It was getting so hot and uncomfortable that we've not been back to the track in almost 2 months. Just consider this time as off-season. We always let car and driver cool down for at least 20-30 minutes between runs and maybe that's no long enough?
Wouldnt doubt it, at fricken 11 at night, your still sticky hot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PLstang
I usually go about an hour to an hour an half between runs. I also use an Ice vest in the car during the day at the track. It's used under Nomex in refineries to keep workers cool. Helps me a lot!
See i would, but my track gets too busy and id prob only get 1-2 runs in.. and i looked at it as, if i get pumped and i mess it up that was my last shot..
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Originally Posted by blk281gt
I would change your gear and throw a zex kit on it.When you decide on a supercharger, sell the nitrous kit.You will be more than happy .
I have the money for both... Just its dad thats holding me back and doesnt want either..He only said do gears if ford does it.. and they have your car for 3 days.. and 800 dollars later.. screw that.. lol it aint worth that much, but the nitrous i havent brought up b/c i think he'll just shoot me down again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PLstang
Why sell the nitrous...just build the motor and spray the blower later!!
i can only wish..
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelers
Well if you want that suppercharger give Chris at Tillman Speed a call. He'll do the best he can to get you what you want.....
Never really checked out their site, do they have good prices/selections?
Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon
What am I missing here??? I don't think I'd be too disappointed with 13s with only and intake and tune.
Dont get me wrong, im happy its not SLOWER but damn i wanted to hit a 13.6.. figured with new rear tires and the spare tire removed it hit it, but **** i went slower then my stock bald tires with full weight.. lol..
Quote:
Originally Posted by blk281gt
I agree.New gear = low 13,s
I would love to have it done.. id have to wait till im moved out so if a shop holds it for three days he wont know haha
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS// Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials Upcoming Mods//Longtube Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers//LCA's
those times look pretty good for the mods you have. Im not sure what our cars should run bone stock. Im taking mine to Bristol this weekend for the first time with nothing more than exhaust and a KN drop in filter.
Stock i made about 4 runs, and i couldnt break 14.0 @98.9mph..that was my best stock.. but ive run quicker with my intake then i did last night, i was hoping to hit 13.6 flat.. Oh well, it was still kind of fun..
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS// Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials Upcoming Mods//Longtube Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers//LCA's
is it just me, or should anyone who wants to run thier car on the track first get a second set of rims with drag radials or slicks. seems like ur just spinnin your wheels(literally) spending money to make your car faster, if u can't get it to the ground.
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06 GT PREMIUM Manual, 18's, flowmasters, Hurst billet, Webelectric sequentials, painted 10" stripes, Cervini KR500 hood w/functional ram air kit, K&N air filter, Cervini rear ducktail, quarter panel scoops, and quarter window scoops, Midweat Auto Gear strut tower covers, 1/2 mirror covers, and fuel rail covers. Pioneer touch screeen head unit w/blue tooth, dvd & sirius.Also haves: 1969 Lemans & 1968 Firebird.
dude, buy yourself an UCA/LCA kit from CHE performance. They are between $200 and $300 and they are top notch. If you really want better times add some relocation brackets to that for another $100 and watch you 60ft times go from 2.2xx down to 1.9xx-2.0xx, saving your overall et by about .2-.4.... Best mod Ive made so far, car really sticks down at the track!
I just ordered my relocation brackets, I hope to see more of an increase in downwards pressure.
is it just me, or should anyone who wants to run thier car on the track first get a second set of rims with drag radials or slicks. seems like ur just spinnin your wheels(literally) spending money to make your car faster, if u can't get it to the ground.
See i want to, but the trick is.. my dad said not to race this car at the track incase anything happens.. We are not rich and if my car got wrecked or broke the tranny.. well id be selling the car and biking to work.. lol so yeah, he doesnt know i take it to the track so slicks are out of the question till next year when i move out to my own place.. and yes, i did spin alot of the line.. it sucked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT speeder13
dude, buy yourself an UCA/LCA kit from CHE performance. They are between $200 and $300 and they are top notch. If you really want better times add some relocation brackets to that for another $100 and watch you 60ft times go from 2.2xx down to 1.9xx-2.0xx, saving your overall et by about .2-.4.... Best mod Ive made so far, car really sticks down at the track!
I just ordered my relocation brackets, I hope to see more of an increase in downwards pressure.
You really will see a difference with those UCA/LCA's?? Even with the auto..?
I never look to buy suspension mods b/c i feel like it wont do me any good for the hp i have..im probably totally wrong.
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS// Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials Upcoming Mods//Longtube Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers//LCA's
See i want to, but the trick is.. my dad said not to race this car at the track incase anything happens.. We are not rich and if my car got wrecked or broke the tranny.. well id be selling the car and biking to work.. lol so yeah, he doesnt know i take it to the track so slicks are out of the question till next year when i move out to my own place.. and yes, i did spin alot of the line.. it sucked.
You really will see a difference with those UCA/LCA's?? Even with the auto..?
I never look to buy suspension mods b/c i feel like it wont do me any good for the hp i have..im probably totally wrong.
I just bought Relocation bracket for my car last week, they should be here some time this week. The UCA/LCA kit made a huge difference in my cars launch! all the power goes straight to the ground and instead of getting the annoying wheel hop where your tires just spin, the car just hooks and goes... I cant wait to see what type of difference the relo. brackets will make! I'm telling you spend the $220 or whatever it is and get the non-adjustable kit, will be the best mod you will buy at this stage for your car!
i can only wish..
