Man that is bad, do you know what size shot he was spraying. I am calling Zex to find out about these burning cars. Not sure how a fuel solenoid not closing has anything to do with it. I bet money the problem is how the kit was wired.
+1 No way the fuel solenoid sticking open would cause this. All he would have to do is shut the car off and that would stop the fuel flow. This is why I don't play around with my wiring
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It's better to burn out than to fade away - The Kurgan
+1 No way the fuel solenoid sticking open would cause this. All he would have to do is shut the car off and that would stop the fuel flow. This is why I don't play around with my wiring
Any solenoid valve can stick but it isn't very likely. Most likely wiring or poor plumbing connection.
Something most DIY mechanics don't understand about the wiring on the Mustang and most new cars is the factory wiring is what is referred to as NO-Gr. Normally Open to Ground. Simply explained that means the +12V is always on and the SJB and relays switch the ground connection to complete the circuit. (In normal wiring such as in a home lighting or appliance the +V or hot wire is switched.)
So why does that make a difference you may ask. If you use the incorrect wire for the +12V the voltage potential will always be there regardless of if the key is on or not. So depending where you connect your switches can make a big difference. If you switch the +V wire then the switch will always remove +V potential (unless the switch fails)
If you switch the ground wire(like the OEM does) then the +V will still have potential at the deviece (solenoids, radio, lights and so on) so if that wire gets chaffed or cut and goes to ground before the switch the circuit is complete and there isn't anything that will turn off the power other than disconnecting the battery!
There must be some sort of cost savings by doing it this way but I don't fully understand.
Like TheKurgan said "don't play around with it" if you don't fully understand auto wiring.
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Another reason for a cut off switch.Incase something goes wrong; the cut off switch can stop all fuel, and nitrous. I also carry a very powerful fire extinguisher. The other day driving down our main road I drive by a car on fire I jump out and put that sucker out. The driver paid to have my bottle refilled.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
[quote=10/05gt;
If you switch the ground wire(like the OEM does) then the +V will still have potential at the deviece (solenoids, radio, lights and so on) so if that wire gets chaffed or cut and goes to ground before the switch the circuit is complete and there isn't anything that will turn off the power other than disconnecting the battery!
There must be some sort of cost savings by doing it this way but I don't fully understand.
Like TheKurgan said "don't play around with it" if you don't fully understand auto wiring.[/quote]
Yep......up until about 2-3 years ago the air compressor packages I designed (up to 700hp using a CAT C-18) had the battery disconnect on the positive. Then CAT changed their recommendation to the negative side. I said the exact same thing.....now everything is hot and if you make a connection to ground you are a go. However, IF the battery disconnect is placed properly and there is NO connection possible to Batt - then it don't matter....nothing will happen. But if you have a ground strap between the disconnect and the neg battery post that ties to the frame......well all bets are off now.....
My disconnect, or shut off switch cuts off everything including the alternator. If the alternator is not shut off than power still is available, and this is dangerous. This is how you do it. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...mustang-3.html
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
+1 No way the fuel solenoid sticking open would cause this. All he would have to do is shut the car off and that would stop the fuel flow. This is why I don't play around with my wiring
I hear you bud, I put thick conduit on all my wires. I do not have to worry about grounding out problems. Like that new avatar.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
Like I suggested on the other forum where that was posted, I'm convinced that this was an electrical malfunction of some sort. Could have been the ZEX box, but I honestly have a strong feeling that it was a questionable wiring job. That's not a shot at the guy who owned the car and I'm no electrical expert, but either you know it or you don't. And if you don't know it, you shouldn't be doing it.
Like I suggested on the other forum where that was posted, I'm convinced that this was an electrical malfunction of some sort. Could have been the ZEX box, but I honestly have a strong feeling that it was a questionable wiring job. That's not a shot at the guy who owned the car and I'm no electrical expert, but either you know it or you don't. And if you don't know it, you shouldn't be doing it.
True to that,a lot of factors though to truly nail it down. I know it was not the solenoid. Heck like I stated someone could of planted a bomb on that sucker.That would be just as likely or more so than the solenoid. The cut off switch on my car does give me a little safer feeling now.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
I agree, not a solenoid issue either. I have been keeping up with his post on the other forum and most others are saying the same thing. He did hear a bang so i am sure he did have a backfire.
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2006 Mustang GT. CDC classic chin spoiler,Off road x , FRPP GTA axlebacks,Tunable Induction CAI,SCTtuner. FRPP 3.73 gear,Rear window louver,Qtr window louvers.CDC shaker hood,M&H drag radials, and ZEX 125 shot nitrous for insurance!
Best ET to date- 11.89 @ 114 mph
390 rwhp
520 rwtq
No more Nitrous all motor now.Don't ask.
I agree, not a solenoid issue either. I have been keeping up with his post on the other forum and most others are saying the same thing. He did hear a bang so i am sure he did have a backfire.
This whole thing sounds pretty suspicious to me, the more I think about it. I wonder if the EX-girlfriend /bomb theory may have any validity? Who knows it may of been wiring, or some type of back fire like you said.The cause may never be determined. The car was just sitting there with the nitrous switch off correct? So this being said, a short would definately do it. The way you, and I wired it though this would not happen. We both had 2 switches,1 on the console, and one in the dash . That is another safety precaution. Thanks Blk for that tip on the wiring.That does make me feel a bit more safe. I am still calling Zex today, and see if this has been a problem. I highly doubt it.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
This whole thing sounds pretty suspicious to me, the more I think about it. I wonder if the EX-girlfriend /bomb theory may have any validity? Who knows it may of been wiring, or some type of back fire like you said.The cause may never be determined. The car was just sitting there with the nitrous switch off correct? So this being said, a short would definately do it. The way you, and I wired it though this would not happen. We both had 2 switches,1 on the console, and one in the dash . That is another safety precaution. Thanks Blk for that tip on the wiring.That does make me feel a bit more safe. I am still calling Zex today, and see if this has been a problem. I highly doubt it.
I think i would call too, justto see if there have been any issues.Man..your car i running now huh? imaging what it would do without that elevation
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2006 Mustang GT. CDC classic chin spoiler,Off road x , FRPP GTA axlebacks,Tunable Induction CAI,SCTtuner. FRPP 3.73 gear,Rear window louver,Qtr window louvers.CDC shaker hood,M&H drag radials, and ZEX 125 shot nitrous for insurance!
Best ET to date- 11.89 @ 114 mph
390 rwhp
520 rwtq
No more Nitrous all motor now.Don't ask.
I agree, not a solenoid issue either. I have been keeping up with his post on the other forum and most others are saying the same thing. He did hear a bang so i am sure he did have a backfire.
If he had a nitrous backfire, The fuel solenoid could have been the problem. You are assuming that the solenoid stayed OPEN when it could have stay CLOSED. causing the motor to back fire. NItrous needs to correct fuel ratio to work correctly. No fuel = BIG BANG. after that, the fuel rail may have been damaged and caused the fire. my 2 cents
all motor now.Don't ask.
