OK- so I'm finally starting my own thread to try and answer a nagging question I have. Here's the facts so far,as I understand them.
1. Lowering the S197 with a spring package (be it Eibach,FRPP whatever) MAY require the owner to build in some adjustability to maintain proper driveline geometry. This is best accomplished by: A) adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end B) Upper and Lower Control Arms to correct pinion angle and C) camber bolts/plates to bring the front wheels back in line.
2. Adding shocks and struts,regardless of brand,also recommended
3. Adding front/rear swaybars,again,regardless of brand, as icing on the cake.
4. FRPP's Handling Pack (shocks,struts,sway bars and springs-minus the strut tower brace) is advertised (in my opinion) as a complete package,engineered so that everything works well together.
5. As a showcase for the Handling pack, it is installed (as I understand it) on the Shelby GT and GT-H.
6. Curiously absent from any magazine article or information on the Shelby was the need for additional parts.
7.Calling the toll free FRPP Tech Line and asking if any parts mentioned in point #1 were required resulted in a resounding "No sir- you are only lowering the car by 1.5 inches, no need to purchase more parts"
So- my question for the AFM faithful is - Is the FRPP Handling Pack a complete package? If not- why would FRPP leave parts out? Secondly- anybody had an up close and personal with a Shelby GT/GT-H to see if the Handling Pack is ALL that was installed?
I'm not looking to see which brand is the best...personally, putting Ford parts on my Ford car helps me sleep at night. Would FRPP put out an incomplete package, and then showcase that incomplete package on a product bearing Shelby's name? Thanks to all for your patience...long post I know, but wanted to try and get all the thoughts rattling around in my head down at one time!!!!
I think their statement is correct, you are only lowering 1.5" and the alignment of your rear will not kick out far enough to cause issue. Nor will you move the front wheels to the point where the alignment can't be correct with factory parts.
You will however probably need to have the car taken in for an alignment service just to check everything out and make any adjustments.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
It is supposedly complete but I do know that 5Twenty needed an adjustable panhard bar when he installed his. I don't think he required camber bolts.
It is a fairly complete kit. It does need to include an adjustable panhard bar which I had to buy separately. If you don't get the adjustable one tire sticks out 1/2"-3/4" farther than the other. It probably wouldn't hurt anything but I didn't like even knowing my car wasn't perfectly centered. Concerning camber, the front alignment was adjusted as far as it could go but that was perfect. No camber bolts were needed although they come with the FRPP kit.
The shocks/struts that came with the kit were pretty good but I had one fail just a few months after installation.
If I had it to do all over again I would do this: Get the Eibach springs, front and rear sway bars because they are the same that come with the FRPP kit. Then get some Tokico D-specs. You'll come in at or below the price of the FRPP kit and your car will handle like NASCAR and be fully adjustable. Then get a BMR adjustable panhard bar. You will not be disappointed.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I did the FRPP handling kit over a year ago - alignment was obtained without problem (bolts or plates) - I did not use a panhard bar - no problems since the install (about 6,000 miles).
Prior to purchasing the handling kit, I read as much as I could find and also called FRPP to make sure that nothing else was needed (got the same answer that you did).
When I read these threads about the rear being offset with out the panhard I find myself visually checking my car - again no problems.
With the FRPP (and 20's with BFG KDW tires) the cars handles like it is on rails.
I did the FRPP handling kit over a year ago - alignment was obtained without problem (bolts or plates) - I did not use a panhard bar - no problems since the install (about 6,000 miles).
Prior to purchasing the handling kit, I read as much as I could find and also called FRPP to make sure that nothing else was needed (got the same answer that you did).
When I read these threads about the rear being offset with out the panhard I find myself visually checking my car - again no problems.
With the FRPP (and 20's with BFG KDW tires) the cars handles like it is on rails.
Hope my experience is helpful to you.
Just goes to show that every car is a little different. So much for assembly line standardization
If I had it to do all over again I would do this: Get the Eibach springs, front and rear sway bars because they are the same that come with the FRPP kit. Then get some Tokico D-specs. You'll come in at or below the price of the FRPP kit and your car will handle like NASCAR and be fully adjustable. Then get a BMR adjustable panhard bar. You will not be disappointed.
Well said!! That's what I have and am psyched!! (Well I have the CHE adj panhard bar...) About the same price BUT with adjustable (BETTER) shocks and struts!!
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
Well said!! That's what I have and am psyched!! (Well I have the CHE adj panhard bar...) About the same price BUT with adjustable (BETTER) shocks and struts!!
Thanks, KJ. I am still amazed at how well the car handles now. This difference from stock is night and day. It's more fun to drive than ever. I like 3 turns on the Tokicos.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I did the FRPP handling kit over a year ago - alignment was obtained without problem (bolts or plates) - I did not use a panhard bar - no problems since the install (about 6,000 miles).
Prior to purchasing the handling kit, I read as much as I could find and also called FRPP to make sure that nothing else was needed (got the same answer that you did).
When I read these threads about the rear being offset with out the panhard I find myself visually checking my car - again no problems.
With the FRPP (and 20's with BFG KDW tires) the cars handles like it is on rails.
Hope my experience is helpful to you.
Thats EXACTLY what I was looking for ....thanks for your posting-very helpful indeed! And thanks to everyone else who replied.... I'm feeling a little more informed and one of these days I'll finally commit to this mod. Now I'm starting to wonder about mixing and matching....Tokico D-specs...hmmmmm (thanks 5twenty!)
Can I get away with the suspension mods being done step by step? In other words, can I start now with doing the FRPP springs, then later on add the other components? I realize doing the "complete package" is way better than just the springs alone, but it's not going to be a problem right?
I'm about to order new rims and tires and would like to also get the FRPPs, but I can only afford so much at once!
Obviously you won't get the package deal that way... also install will be more unless you DIYS...?? To keep on putting your car on the lift and swapping part by part is of course more than to do it once when all is apart...
The front springs and dampeners have to go apart for example spring install and than again for dampener install...
With all that said I would get a set of springs and do that first becaue it makes the car look SO much better! Especially with your new rims!! I have and really like the Eibach Pros.
I see nothing wrong with mixing parts and would not go with the FRPP parts unless you have found a shop/dealer extending the warranty? I think my springs and sways are the same as the FRPP ones but cheaper from Eibach plus I matched them with D-Specs which are quite a step above the FRPP dampeners for about the same cost...
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
I did plan my suspension upgrades to be DIY projects (except the alignment). After more consideration, it would probably be a waste of time to do the springs without doing at least the dampeners at the same time, so I'll wait on the springs until I can get the dampers.
But I can get the FRPP springs for about $189, while the Eiback pro kit is running about $259?? Does this sound right?
Also, I think the d-specs (for me) are overkill. I'll probably never make adjustements to them, and I don't need top of the line shocks and struts. So the question is what set is going to be an improvement over stock, but not run me $550 like the Dspecs?
Back to the drawing board for now I suppose. I'll guess I'll just settle for new pullies and new rims/tires for now and suck it up until I can select an appropriate suspension package.
Go with the FRPP ones, they're the same I have been told...??
The D-Specs are NOT overkill!! Stock is as you know junk... a sad compromise and more Taurus than sport... But what if the Eibachs are rough for you and your roads... you're stuck... or if you want more performance... or if you wanna do the quarter and losen the front end... etc etc... D-Specs arde the best of ALL worlds and not much more...!!!
Oh, and for handling don't forget the swaybars!!
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations