Yesterday me and 3 friends went out to the dyno for the beginning of the day, a fox body stang, a 98 cobra S/C, my 06 GT and a RX-7. the RX-7 pulled 310 rwhp, the cobra pulled 333 rwhp, the fox body wont be mentioned to save its dignity. and my 06 pulled max 267.33 rwhp and 264.65 torque... just for reference it was 44F with 16% humidity. the dyno was the kinetic dyno with sae smoothing. the day was a bit depressing considering the fact that i read many 2005+ gt's dyno'd around 265 rwhp stock. but my car is not stock, im running a c&l cai, pypes off road H-pipe, bassani catback system, and a sctx3 tuner with 93 octaine tune. i found through out the day, my first run was the strongest, and leanest. i tried to continue to lean it out and the power increased every time i leaned it out more running 6% lean. the day was good but was semi depressing pulls left me wondering, is that good numbers for the new mustangs? did my mods do anything at all? and what can i do to fix this lack in power. on the plus side though, my power curve WAS relatively flat. all in all i forgot about the numbers as me and my friends tore up the roads on the way back home with of course the 310hp & 2700lb RX-7 like to leave us in his exhaust...
Sorry to hear your disappointed, but it sounds like you'r using the tune that came with you X3. If so then you might want to get a custome tune to what mods you have done on the car. You need to watch leaning out your car, because you are only leaning out WOT. That is all you have access to. I have a custom tune by Tillman Speed for what I have modded. As soon as they get the little glitches with the new building streightend out I'm hoping Mon or Tues getting it dynoed.
The current tune by CR at Tillman was a big increase in power and driveability. Once I get it on the dyno it will get a custome dyno tune to get the best all around performance.
CR does custome tunes, you can give him a call and talk with him.
__________________
07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
I agree... Get yourself a dyno tune or at least a custom tune and you'll improve considerably. You are right though, those numbers are what you should be at stock. However, I have seen S197 GTs dyno as low as the mid 230s and as high as the mid 270s stock. So there's a lot of variation.
As for that RX-7. Not surprising at all. My friend has a twin turbo that pushes out 800+ rwhp. They can be real beasts!
Please dont worry about your dyno numbers, there are so many factors that influence them... not to mention each dyno machine can vary quite a bit.
As for your actual numbers, they are "ok"... for an automatic (on a mustang or an upgraded dynojet). I too was disappointed initially with 260.15 whp/261.49 tq (this with CAI/exhaust) and now only have 276.24 whp/292.15 tq (shorty headers, x-pipes, delete plates). Dont forget the automatic loses about 6% more hp than the manual, so a stock manual GT may be 260/265, an auto is typically closer to 240/245 whp stock.
My car is being built by James Klok of Boss Shinoda, so I am confident in my car's performance reguardless of any single set of dyno numbers. Your numbers are reasonable and I wish you best if you decide to do any further modifications.
Please dont worry about your dyno numbers, there are so many factors that influence them... not to mention each dyno machine can vary quite a bit.
As for your actual numbers, they are "ok"... for an automatic (on a mustang or an upgraded dynojet). I too was disappointed initially with 260.15 whp/261.49 tq (this with CAI/exhaust) and now only have 276.24 whp/292.15 tq (shorty headers, x-pipes, delete plates). Dont forget the automatic loses about 6% more hp than the manual, so a stock manual GT may be 260/265, an auto is typically closer to 240/245 whp stock.
My car is being built by James Klok of Boss Shinoda, so I am confident in my car's performance reguardless of any single set of dyno numbers. Your numbers are reasonable and I wish you best if you decide to do any further modifications.
A manual GT actually loses around 12% and an auto around 15%. You are correct on the dyno numbers-they're just numbers. A dyno is just a tool to get the best tune. People have a tendency to focus too much on the numbers. Human nature since 300 sounds a whole lot better than 299
I am just going by what the tuners (Xtreem Motorsports) and builders (Boss Shinoda) have told me... manual GT 14/15% and auto GT 20/21%. The average difference between multiple vehicles tested was almost 6%. But you are right they are just numbers and each car can vary quite a lot. Where did you get your numbers?
__________________
2007 Vista Blue Auto GT/CS: Myer Racing Hood, Silverhorse louvers, Renegade graphics etc. GT500 TB, Steeda CAI, Deletes, UP, FRRP Shorties, X-pipe, 4:10, TC, JBA. Eibach Springs, Sways, Panhard, LCA, Mounts etc. on order: BBR stage II cams, heads, GT pumps, 39# injects, UCA, Relocation brackets etc etc... it never ends.
I am just going by what the tuners (Xtreem Motorsports) and builders (Boss Shinoda) have told me... manual GT 14/15% and auto GT 20/21%. The average difference between multiple vehicles tested was almost 6%. But you are right they are just numbers and each car can vary quite a lot. Where did you get your numbers?
I've witnessed some 30 multi-pull runs and that was about the average drivetrain loss that I saw. Some higher, some lower. My bonestock GT dyno'd at 267 SAE corrected at 68* and 56% rel humidity on a DJ224X.
The RX-7 has an intercooled turbo and deleted the oil injection system... and some weight reducing stuff. thats really about all i know, he just pulled it out recently.
I am just going by what the tuners (Xtreem Motorsports) and builders (Boss Shinoda) have told me... manual GT 14/15% and auto GT 20/21%. The average difference between multiple vehicles tested was almost 6%. But you are right they are just numbers and each car can vary quite a lot. Where did you get your numbers?
Now that I think of it... It may appear that some of these cars are losing 20-21% because the bhp varies greatly on these cars. Some are considerably lower than 300 bhp. Lowest stock pull I saw with an auto was 232 rwhp. That would be close to a 23% loss.
Not sure, safety I guess... I've always been tuned to about 12.7:1 but I have leaned it out 2% without any detonation problems.
12.5 to 1 is the prime ratio. but, that is a balancing act as you are right on the edge of the A/F mixture. so, 12.7 would be on the safe side. although not far on the safe side.
__________________
2005 Mustang GT M5 -I reject your reality and substitute my own-
Yes, I've noticed that also... seems to be a very large range for the auto whp stock... more so than the manuals (why, however I havent a clue). My dyno was ran at about 95F/88 humidity (sunny florida), so I will be tuning again this winter after cams.
__________________
2007 Vista Blue Auto GT/CS: Myer Racing Hood, Silverhorse louvers, Renegade graphics etc. GT500 TB, Steeda CAI, Deletes, UP, FRRP Shorties, X-pipe, 4:10, TC, JBA. Eibach Springs, Sways, Panhard, LCA, Mounts etc. on order: BBR stage II cams, heads, GT pumps, 39# injects, UCA, Relocation brackets etc etc... it never ends.
S197 Mustang GT... Disappointing dyno results 
