I'm wanting a 2010 GT (not premium) manual, and 3:73 gear without the track pack.
I don't want all the bells and whistles and am not going to drag race or slalom the car. It's going to be a daily driver, trips, vacation, etc.
Any thoughts on deleting the track pack ?
Thanks.
I'm wanting a 2010 GT (not premium) manual, and 3:73 gear without the track pack.
I don't want all the bells and whistles and am not going to drag race or slalom the car. It's going to be a daily driver, trips, vacation, etc.
Any thoughts on deleting the track pack ?
Thanks.
Basically you get the brakes, and the recalibrated stability Trac electronics as well as the 3:73 rear axle ratio. From there you can go to the dealership and get the handeling package from FRPP including sway gars, shocks and struts, lowering springs (requiring a camber recalibration allignment plate kit) and and the required bushings. Basically the only thing that you don't get is the Shelby stamped lower control arms which I imagine change the geometry of the front end like the camber plates would . This is all supposition and a good question to ask your dealer but if you are reasonably good with your tools you can install all of these items yourself and have a lowered Mustang which, I believe you can not get with the trac pack. With the lowering your center of gravity is lower thus your Turn in is better and you get flatter more neutral handelnig. You also don't have to put up with "19 wheels and tires which 1) give a rougher ride and 2) are not as good on the real track as 17" or 18" due to unsprung weight. Hence better acceleration, (less unsprung weight) smoother ride due to the higher tire sidewalls. Maybe not as responsive handeling due to the higher sidewalls, but 3) cheaper tires as "19 tires you will find are at the top od the price range for any tire brand. Try a Toyo R-1 in a 17 or 18 inch size if you do track the car for the glue like handling and you will not be stuck with Pirelli p zero tires to drive to and from the track which will wear out in about 12000 miles of all aroud track and road driving and cost big bucks. This is just supposition due to a few years of tracking a '05 S-4 Audi, 40 v v-8 (extremely quick car with more that excellent brakes) and paying for lower profile tires which added extra weight and extreme cost and rougher ride. Like I say all supposition and I am sure that more than a few guys know mor than I as this comes from actual experience with my Audi.. That said I still spanked my share of GTO's, BMW's and Mustangs with my Audi and I am a mustang guy. Good luck and I hope that this helps, JMHO
__________________
2000 4.6 L V-8 Mustang GTConvertible, 5 spd, Black x 3, 18" Saleen's, 8.5 front, 10.0 rear. Nitto NT 555 Extreme 245-40-18 front/285-35-18 rear, Style Bar, chassis stiffened, PIAA Lights, Eibach Pro Kit Plus Lowered Steeda CC Plates. www.webshots.com/user/wjwheezer KEYWORD:wjwheezer
Other Car: 2005 Audi S4 Avant 4.2L V-8/40 valve, 340 HP --- one extremely fast grocery getter (no pics yet).
How come you don't wait to buy a 2011 Mustang? The speculation is that its going to have a brand new "coyote" engine rated closer to 400 hp. The 2010 Mustang is going to be easily forgotten. Just wait a year and get a much better Stang. Also, if the new 2011 Mustang doesn't appeal to you at that time, you can go pick up a 2010 for much cheaper.
You'll find most guys on here are performance orientied, and will steer you towards the track pack. The truth of the matter is unless you are planning on racing the car or pushing it to it's limits on the street, it won't make any difference except you keep some cash in your wallet. For a daily driver most probably wouldn't even be able to know if it was there or not just from driving it.
__________________
2001 Gt (gone but not forgotten, always loved!)
Mineral Grey, KN cold air, SLP cat back, 4:10 gears, Hurst compitition plus shifter, rear window louvers, silver face gauges, Boss Shinoda chin spoiler, Kaminari side skirts, Shaker hoodscoop
Best time 14.20 @ 7000 ft elev (on G-tech performance meter).
real men drive domestic
If you get the trackpack 1 (67E option), you will get only the upgraded brakes, stability control and 3.73 axle.
I went with this as it was the only option available in Canada at the time I ordered.
It was a $500 option. If the dealer will charge $125 for the parts and another $400 for installation, it makes more sense to get the trackpack 1 option from the factory. That is if it is offered.
2010 with 3:73 and no track pack 
(Mods in profile)
