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next mod hp gains?

3K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  145566 
#1 ·
hi all

Ive got a 12 gt,. Mods done 91 sct tune, bbk cai, roush axle backs, With out super charging what is the next best mod with best hp gains without breaking the bank? Are headers a good way?
Help please
 

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#2 ·
Will you be satisfied with being fractions of a second faster? I think you'd probably have to with long tubes to make it worth while. But then you open the can of long tube worms; mid pipe and such. With the shorties I wouldn't even imagine a 10 hp gain.
Unless you're a track rat who lives and dies by every hundredth of a second reduced I'd probably pass on them. They could turn into a headache, they might leak, it might be harder to change spark plugs, fitment mighBt be crap, etc. I don't believe they'll gain you enough power to beat a car that you currently can't. But on the other hand there isn't much out there that will do that without breaking the bank.

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#3 ·
I would go with headers. A set of Kooks long tubes will give you a nice boost.
 
#6 ·
FWIW Headers on the 05 and up cars do not interfere with the spark plugs... These 3V and 4V engines are essentially Hemis - center plug location.

Worthwhile mods:
1. Underdrive pulleys - frees up about 8 horses, Steeda makes great UDPs
2. Headers - Kooks are the best made, no offense to ARH and the others, just see them in person.
3. Cams (have to know if you are going to stay NA or go FI in the future)
4. For a manual car, a different shifter and shifter mount bushing. Here is the bushing link first - Whiteline, Steeda, and UPR all offer these and they are equal. For shifters, MGW and Barton are top rated. UPR is the best I have ever driven! Highly suggest this one. Steeda Triax is a little sloppy as is the Hurst.
Whiteline Mustang Positive Shift Kit - Transmission Mount Bushing Insert KDT928 (11-17 GT) - Free Shipping
2010-2014 Ford Mustang Performance Shifters | UPR

A shifter will add no horses, but will make you quicker with short throws and lower likelihood of missing gears.

5. Gears. No more horses, but quicker. If you don't have them already, I would suggest 3:73s. 4:10s add a lot, but essentially make 2nd gear the same as first and run rpms up for highway driving. 3:55s are good too, may be the best for tracking your car.

6. For Automatic cars, a 3000 stall converter. Gets you in the power band quickly

and then you need to move to traction and handling mods...
LCAs, springs, sway bars, panhard bar, wider wheels and good tires. It doesn't stop.
 
#14 ·
#20 ·
If you go long tubes you will want to know if the transmission can be removed without loosening or removing the long tubes. The Kooks are not officially long tubes. They are considered mid-length. I have Kooks and know for a fact that my transmission can be removed and reinstalled without removal or loosening the headers. But it is tight and was a pain in the butt for the ford technician who worked on my car and he is a very experienced automotive master technician.
 
#21 ·
I've found it best to figure out what your end goal is and then build toward that, for example for my '14 I want a reliable blown 550-ish rear wheel hp as this is still my go to work, off to the cottage hot rod so here's my game plan:
My car was box stock, except for axle backs which were less than ideal, so first it got GT500 quads with the valance
Then a blowfish racing shifter bracket
This spring it gets suspension upgrades, mostly white line stuff, springs, plates, arms, brackets and that sexy watts link, plus lmr has a nice deal on those big flat black DF5's so a set with Michelin SuperSports - probably do those caliper brackets and add bigger rear rotors at the same time mostly for looks but a little more brakes is never a bad thing.
Then I'm going under the hood, long tubes and an X pipe, CobraJet intake kit and a tune, that should put me in the 500 hp at the crank range.
I've been looking at the Dept of Boost for a complete blower setup so the long tubes will def help there and I will be offsetting each upgrade by selling off the pieces I replace - my Brembo wheels are mint and worth good $$ although the rears require rubber (often) but that will put cash in the coffers for the next upgrade as will seliing the CJ intake when I add the blower.
If you know where you wanna go then each step will add up to the whole......mostly my friend have fun with it - this is my 5th Mustang and other than my 69 trunk rust bucket I've modded them all and enjoyed doing it - we're all in this together!!

Scott
 
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#23 ·
I've found it best to figure out what your end goal is and then build toward that, for example for my '14 I want a reliable blown 550-ish rear wheel hp as this is still my go to work, off to the cottage hot rod so here's my game plan:

My car was box stock, except for axle backs which were less than ideal, so first it got GT500 quads with the valance

Then a blowfish racing shifter bracket

This spring it gets suspension upgrades, mostly white line stuff, springs, plates, arms, brackets and that sexy watts link, plus lmr has a nice deal on those big flat black DF5's so a set with Michelin SuperSports - probably do those caliper brackets and add bigger rear rotors at the same time mostly for looks but a little more brakes is never a bad thing.

Then I'm going under the hood, long tubes and an X pipe, CobraJet intake kit and a tune, that should put me in the 500 hp at the crank range.

I've been looking at the Dept of Boost for a complete blower setup so the long tubes will def help there and I will be offsetting each upgrade by selling off the pieces I replace - my Brembo wheels are mint and worth good $$ although the rears require rubber (often) but that will put cash in the coffers for the next upgrade as will seliing the CJ intake when I add the blower.

If you know where you wanna go then each step will add up to the whole......mostly my friend have fun with it - this is my 5th Mustang and other than my 69 trunk rust bucket I've modded them all and enjoyed doing it - we're all in this together!!



Scott

I imagine you'd get close that 550ish whp with the blower and stock exhaust. An X pipe isn't going to make or break you, n/a or otherwise.

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