2012 Mustang GT Cold Air Intake. Worth it? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Originally Posted by nuclearjunky View Post
This whole tune thing is new to me coming from a rockcrawling background but here's how I look at it. The stock intake is what, 3.5-4in diameter with a nice gentle bend going into the throttle body with an isolated filter compartment that pulls cold air from outside the engine bay. It's the same intake on the boss thats supporting 7500 rpm and 444 horses. I think thats enough for me if I decide to tune my car. An aftermarket CAI will draw more attention from the dealer when you take it in also. Just my .02
Very good points all around. The only reason I even have a CAI is because the proper tubing wasn't available when I installed my Boss intake manifold. Even now, it's about the same cost as a CAI ... and let's face it, they look cool!

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Do the FRPP Pro-Cal setup. That will yield you a very noticeable seat of the pants feel, and you will not void your warranty if you have the dealer install it.

In all sincerity, you should have bought the Power Pack from FRPP since you bought the GT500 axle back and the K&N seperately. It is a great combo.

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naw it wont make much of a difference without a tune.....maybe 1 hp.

If your worried about the warranty....you could always check our FRPP
TheYeti,

Finally got your car eh? Glad to see that. If it would have sat 6 miles from your house another week I'm sure you would've been picking the lock to the warehouse.
Hope you are enjoying it!
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This is from the engineers at Ford Racing directly

"Aftermarket cold air kit manufacturers that claim to work without the need of a PCM recalibration are a common source of misleading dyno power claims. Some of the manufacturers of these kits claim enormous power gains using nothing but their kit and a production calibration. Most of these claims are not supported with A/F, inlet temperature or spark advance traces during the dyno pulls that are shown in their advertising. In some cases, the apparent increase in power is due to differing dyno test conditions as mentioned previously, while in other cases they can be due to the fact that the MAF sensor transfer function in the PCM is left stock. If the cold air kit flows more air and the MAF transfer function in the PCM is stock, it will not "know" about the extra air that's entering the engine. This will result in the engine running an A/F ratio that is leaner than it should be for engine durability. While this has the potential to produce more power, it can also be potentially damaging to catalysts, exhaust valves, piston rings and other engine components. The commanded spark advance can also be incorrect and result in detonation or pre-ignition with potentially catastrophic results. One should be very suspect if a particular cold air kit claims a huge power increase over stock at low engine rpm and without a calibration. Air inlet restrictions generally only become significant at higher airflows, so if a claim is made that a cold air kit increases torque at 2000 rpm without the aid of a calibration, you can be sure that varying dyno test conditions or a significant change in A/F ratio are the cause. Ask for more supporting data!"
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TheYeti,

Finally got your car eh? Glad to see that. If it would have sat 6 miles from your house another week I'm sure you would've been picking the lock to the warehouse.
Hope you are enjoying it!
haha yep and loving every min since I got it. I posted some pics over in the "who ordered their 2011" mustang thread. Finally got it Monday the 5th....car arrived at the Train Yard in Phoenix on Tuesday Nov 29th

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Most of the manufacturers have dyno sheets. I went Airaid on the v6 I ordered and hope it helps.

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Most of the manufacturers have dyno sheets. I went Airaid on the v6 I ordered and hope it helps.
Their dyno sheets lack necessary information to compare it to stock power levels. It's an advertising gimmick.
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I just put a Roush on mine the other day, Roush "claims" a 8HP increase. It sounds nice and looks very nice. For the price it's a great mod. No tune required either. I have not noticed a power difference because I still don't have 100 miles on the car yet so I haven't gone above 5K yet, as an aside I just got the GT500's installed so I should have a fun drive home from work today

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I still don't have 100 miles on the car yet so I haven't gone above 5K yet,
I finally pushed over 100 yesterday....at 100.2, I was

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post #25 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-08-2011 Thread Starter
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I thought about that also. The stock intake on the GT truly takes in cold air from the draw tube that opens inside the grill while the aftermarket CAI's suck in quite a bit of hot air from under the hood. The only aftermarket CAI that is closed under the hood and uses the stock draw tube is the AEM brand: AEM Mustang Cold Air Intake (11-12 GT) AEM-21-8122DC - Free Shipping!

What do you guys think of the AEM?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black and Gold View Post
I thought about that also. The stock intake on the GT truly takes in cold air from the draw tube that opens inside the grill while the aftermarket CAI's suck in quite a bit of hot air from under the hood. The only aftermarket CAI that is closed under the hood and uses the stock draw tube is the AEM brand: AEM Mustang Cold Air Intake (11-12 GT) AEM-21-8122DC - Free Shipping!

What do you guys think of the AEM?

AEM makes fantastic products! I know I am saying this after you posted a link to our website, but coming from the import world has given me a lot of experience with AEM. Their fit/finish/quality are all top notch and they do engineer intakes to make power. You are correct, them sealing the intake and using the factory draw-tube will help it immensely when it comes to air intake temperature and truly providing "cold-air" to the intake system. Anyone who has ever built/raced real race cars knows that filter location is just as important as sealing the filter from the heat of the engine. Keeping the filter exposed and in the engine bay is really not benefiting you. You would benefit more from a good-flowing panel filter in the stock location.

Now, a true-cold-air intake(filter in the fender-well) will definitely be very beneficial, especially if it is exposed to air moving over the front of the vehicle via ducting or the design of the front air-dam on the car.

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Truth be told a panel K&N and a CAI both with tunes should be within 3-4 hp of one another. I know people with CAI's that spent 200-300 over the panel for 38 bucks will not like to hear that but it's true. It's the tune that is making the majority of the power the CAI breaths a little better then stock due to it for the most part being blocked off with the same cold air inlet as the stock air box.

Also alot of dyno tests are run with hoods open and fans which in real world situations the hood is closed. The CAI sitting behind the headlight gets just as much air as the panel from the air inlet but has to deal with more heat (even the baffled ones still get more engine temp then a panel would being contained in plastic and only getting frontal air from outside) that will effect the numbers on a CAI.

If there was a design that was able to have the CAI either get air from the fendor or in front of the radiator I think it would be far superior to any panel except in the rain.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMChrisYoung View Post
AEM makes fantastic products! I know I am saying this after you posted a link to our website, but coming from the import world has given me a lot of experience with AEM. Their fit/finish/quality are all top notch and they do engineer intakes to make power. You are correct, them sealing the intake and using the factory draw-tube will help it immensely when it comes to air intake temperature and truly providing "cold-air" to the intake system. Anyone who has ever built/raced real race cars knows that filter location is just as important as sealing the filter from the heat of the engine. Keeping the filter exposed and in the engine bay is really not benefiting you. You would benefit more from a good-flowing panel filter in the stock location.

Now, a true-cold-air intake(filter in the fender-well) will definitely be very beneficial, especially if it is exposed to air moving over the front of the vehicle via ducting or the design of the front air-dam on the car.
Ah you beat me! But you didn't beat Brick!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheYeti View Post
I finally pushed over 100 yesterday....at 100.2, I was
Bwahahah! This will be me tomorrow!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black and Gold View Post
I thought about that also. The stock intake on the GT truly takes in cold air from the draw tube that opens inside the grill while the aftermarket CAI's suck in quite a bit of hot air from under the hood. The only aftermarket CAI that is closed under the hood and uses the stock draw tube is the AEM brand: AEM Mustang Cold Air Intake (11-12 GT) AEM-21-8122DC - Free Shipping!

What do you guys think of the AEM?
The Roush uses the factory fittings and hooks right up to the cold air intake rectangle that comes on the car. The top is sealed, so it's not an issue with hot engine air.

2012 Mustang 5.0 - 2002 Focus ZTW - 2012 Kia Soul - 1969 Mustang GT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morcla View Post
I just put a Roush on mine the other day, Roush "claims" a 8HP increase. It sounds nice and looks very nice. For the price it's a great mod. No tune required either. I have not noticed a power difference because I still don't have 100 miles on the car yet so I haven't gone above 5K yet, as an aside I just got the GT500's installed so I should have a fun drive home from work today
If a CAI gives you an 8HP increase, that is less than 2 1/2% of the cars total HP rating (412). I doubt that anyone could feel a real difference. It will sound better. A good tune will be noticeable with or without a CAI. Love those GT500's!

2011 Auto V6, Jon Lund 93 tune, 4.10, Steeda CAI, FRPP LCA & X-Pipe, Shaftmasters DS, Bassani Axle back SOLD

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