Rear suspension problems/questions - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012 Thread Starter
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Rear suspension problems/questions

OK so I'll try to explain as well as I can. The only rear mods that I have right now are the j&m control arms and K springs. I had my nitto 315/35/20 nt05s for a few months now with some track passes on them but no real crazy antics because they are pretty big and sticky. Its had some damn hard launches though. Everything seemed fine and then I installed my K springs last week. It seems to sit lower than it should and the bump stops are literally touching where they bottom out. Just lightly... They are also angled back like the rear end is clocked back about 5-8°… This doesn't seem normal to me. The bottom control arm bolts are tight and I haven't installed my steeda relocation brackets yet so the control arms are in the stock location. Didn't have a good chance to look but the UCA seems OK but need to check better when I get home (I'm offshore). Also when I get into power and let off or go from reverse-forward-reverse the rear seems to move slightly on the right side. When you're going 70-80 the car actually shifts slightly when on and off the power. The day after I lowered it my buddy did do a pretty hard donut in it before I got a chance to say not to (he's not driving it again). Can you bend the UCA or its mount if its stock? Also people who put on k springs are your bump stops straight up and down or are they cocked back a few degrees contacting the angled part of the bump stop touch point?

2012 Base GT/MT-82/3.73 KONA BLUE
JLT INTAKE/AED TUNE/PYPES A/B
CUSTOM 3 INCH MIDPIPES/DYNAFLO ULTRAFLO X MUFFLER/NO CATS
J&M CONTROL ARMS/ADJUSTABLE PANHARD/FORD K SPRINGS
KICKER SOLOBARIC L7 12"SUB/KICKER 750X1
4 KICKER 6X8s/dbDRIVE 1000X4
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012
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The mount for the UCA can be a little flimsy from the factory. Some people have problems with them some don't. Got a new mount and better UCA waiting at home for when I get back from offshore too. Might just need a better look at things.

2011 Mustang Gt- 400A, Black/Black, Brembo, 3.73, Lethal(JBA) H-Pipe, Pypes A/B, UMI adj. UCA, SR Shifter, Barton Bracket, JHR clutch line, J&M LCAs, Boss Oil Cooler, WeatherTech Digital Fit, Black Emblems. Deletes: Resonators, Sound Tube, Spring Assist.
2007 Suburban LTZ 4x4- 5.3 Liter, 2" Ruff Country Level Kit
1995 F-350 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab- Way to much to list ( Slow but fast, Fast but Slow)
1973 F-250 4x4 Highboy- Under Restoration, Built 460, C6.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012 Thread Starter
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Which one did you order? I'm thinking about ordering a mount and adjustable arm, and ditching these cheap j&m lowers and getting some with the heim joints and adjustable.

2012 Base GT/MT-82/3.73 KONA BLUE
JLT INTAKE/AED TUNE/PYPES A/B
CUSTOM 3 INCH MIDPIPES/DYNAFLO ULTRAFLO X MUFFLER/NO CATS
J&M CONTROL ARMS/ADJUSTABLE PANHARD/FORD K SPRINGS
KICKER SOLOBARIC L7 12"SUB/KICKER 750X1
4 KICKER 6X8s/dbDRIVE 1000X4
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012
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Went with UPR pro series mount and a UPR non-adjustable UCA. You probably need a adjustable UCA since you have lowered your car. You don't like the lower control arms you got or just ones that adjust?

2011 Mustang Gt- 400A, Black/Black, Brembo, 3.73, Lethal(JBA) H-Pipe, Pypes A/B, UMI adj. UCA, SR Shifter, Barton Bracket, JHR clutch line, J&M LCAs, Boss Oil Cooler, WeatherTech Digital Fit, Black Emblems. Deletes: Resonators, Sound Tube, Spring Assist.
2007 Suburban LTZ 4x4- 5.3 Liter, 2" Ruff Country Level Kit
1995 F-350 Powerstroke 4x4 Crew Cab- Way to much to list ( Slow but fast, Fast but Slow)
1973 F-250 4x4 Highboy- Under Restoration, Built 460, C6.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012 Thread Starter
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Something is happening weird on the right side and I can't pinpoint it. Both bolts are tight and it almost feels like the bushing is going bad allowing the rear end to shift forward and back. I'm just wanting to change everything since I can't figure it out and these were just the cheap 110$ lowers so its not like I wasted much money..

2012 Base GT/MT-82/3.73 KONA BLUE
JLT INTAKE/AED TUNE/PYPES A/B
CUSTOM 3 INCH MIDPIPES/DYNAFLO ULTRAFLO X MUFFLER/NO CATS
J&M CONTROL ARMS/ADJUSTABLE PANHARD/FORD K SPRINGS
KICKER SOLOBARIC L7 12"SUB/KICKER 750X1
4 KICKER 6X8s/dbDRIVE 1000X4
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaBlueKiller View Post
OK so I'll try to explain as well as I can. The only rear mods that I have right now are the j&m control arms and K springs. I had my nitto 315/35/20 nt05s for a few months now with some track passes on them but no real crazy antics because they are pretty big and sticky. Its had some damn hard launches though. Everything seemed fine and then I installed my K springs last week. It seems to sit lower than it should and the bump stops are literally touching where they bottom out. Just lightly... They are also angled back like the rear end is clocked back about 5-8°… This doesn't seem normal to me. The bottom control arm bolts are tight and I haven't installed my steeda relocation brackets yet so the control arms are in the stock location. Didn't have a good chance to look but the UCA seems OK but need to check better when I get home (I'm offshore). Also when I get into power and let off or go from reverse-forward-reverse the rear seems to move slightly on the right side. When you're going 70-80 the car actually shifts slightly when on and off the power. The day after I lowered it my buddy did do a pretty hard donut in it before I got a chance to say not to (he's not driving it again). Can you bend the UCA or its mount if its stock? Also people who put on k springs are your bump stops straight up and down or are they cocked back a few degrees contacting the angled part of the bump stop touch point?
Did you install an adjustable panhard bar?

I wouldnt worry too much about the position of the bump stops. If your LCA are the same length as the factory, and all of your bushings are on "ok" shape, you are fine. Lowering the car slightly is not going to twist the axle enough to make a negative impact on the position of it. I DO RECOMMEND an adjustable upper arm though, for a few reasons.

Typically, when a car shifts at higher speed, it is due to the bushings, or occasionally a misalignment of the rear axle.

Check all of your bushings. The factory bushing in the differential, (the bushing attached to the housing) is prone to premature failure when abusing them, or, driving hard.

Check your bushings.

Install an adjustable panhard bar, if you don't have one, and adjust it.

Cut 3/4" to 1" off of your bumpstops.

Have fun!

Kelly Aiken - "The Ford Guy"
kelly@bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302

www.bmrsuspension.com

Home of the First 8-Second S197 Mustang - Oct '05


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Tech View Post
Did you install an adjustable panhard bar?

I wouldnt worry too much about the position of the bump stops. If your LCA are the same length as the factory, and all of your bushings are on "ok" shape, you are fine. Lowering the car slightly is not going to twist the axle enough to make a negative impact on the position of it. I DO RECOMMEND an adjustable upper arm though, for a few reasons.

Typically, when a car shifts at higher speed, it is due to the bushings, or occasionally a misalignment of the rear axle.

Check all of your bushings. The factory bushing in the differential, (the bushing attached to the housing) is prone to premature failure when abusing them, or, driving hard.

Check your bushings.

Install an adjustable panhard bar, if you don't have one, and adjust it.

Cut 3/4" to 1" off of your bumpstops.

Have fun!


Agreed. Check for damaged bushings, especially on the right side. I cut the bump stops on mine and it made it ride much smoother. I didn't realize how hard it was hitting the bump stops after I lowered it!

I'd recommend UPR Products for the UCA & Mount. That's what I'm using for my suspension and it works really well.

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