Help with spring mods - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Help with spring mods

List of spring mods:

Oil catch can
LCA's
Differential (Torsen, Truetrac or Wavetrac)
Steeda Boss performance springs
DSS 1-piece alum. driveshaft and safety loop
Watt's linkage
UCA's and chassis mount

1- the list adds up to about $4k but I'm only spending $1.5-$2k, depending on tax returns so some things will have to go. I put the list in order in terms of what I want out of the car but I am curious if anyone would prioritize parts differently and why.

2- I can only find 2 Watt's linkages - Steeda's and Whiteline - and neither seem to come with a finned diff cover which means I'll have to give up some cooling that the stock cover provides. suggestions?

3- Do you have any of the above parts in good condition that you want to get rid of?

The car is a 2012 Boss 302 with the base LSD that's daily driven for about half the year so I plan on keeping some street manners. Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013
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Have you looked into Kenny Brown or Griggs suspension set ups? They are pretty expensive but I have been seeing a lot of guys running their stuff, and it seems pretty solid.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Saltydawg View Post
Have you looked into Kenny Brown or Griggs suspension set ups? They are pretty expensive but I have been seeing a lot of guys running their stuff, and it seems pretty solid.
they are pretty expensive and it would be impossible for me to get the diff and catch can, both of which I want to make sure I get.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticpower View Post
List of spring mods:

Oil catch can
LCA's
Differential (Torsen, Truetrac or Wavetrac)
Steeda Boss performance springs
DSS 1-piece alum. driveshaft and safety loop
Watt's linkage
UCA's and chassis mount

1- the list adds up to about $4k but I'm only spending $1.5-$2k, depending on tax returns so some things will have to go. I put the list in order in terms of what I want out of the car but I am curious if anyone would prioritize parts differently and why.

2- I can only find 2 Watt's linkages - Steeda's and Whiteline - and neither seem to come with a finned diff cover which means I'll have to give up some cooling that the stock cover provides. suggestions?

3- Do you have any of the above parts in good condition that you want to get rid of?

The car is a 2012 Boss 302 with the base LSD that's daily driven for about half the year so I plan on keeping some street manners. Thanks in advance!
This catch can kit:
2011-2013 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Billet Oil Catch Can Separator 5.0 Logo - UPR Products

And these LCAs:
2005-2013 Ford Mustang GT V6 Solid Urethane Lower Control Arms - UPR Products



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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-09-2013 Thread Starter
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why did you recommend the chrome moly LCA's and not the billet ones?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domesticpower View Post
why did you recommend the chrome moly LCA's and not the billet ones?
Tubular chrome-moly is stronger than the billet aluminum. Don't get me wrong, UPR makes both tubular chrome-moly and billet LCAs. But the chrome-moly arms are the race quality pieces.


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013
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Whiteline watts link diff cover I'm pretty sure is predrilled and tapped for possible trans cooler f desired. I think that is superior to a finned diff cover but don't quote me a 100%
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013
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whiteline watts link

domesticpower,just the fact the watts link is attached to the diff cover should wick quit a bit of heat away from the rear diff. Full on track racing would require a diff radiator, but the odd track day should be no problem with the whiteline watts link attached. I think you might blow the budget trying to squeeze the watts link in, but it would sure be agreat addition!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-20-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie Anderson View Post
domesticpower,just the fact the watts link is attached to the diff cover should wick quit a bit of heat away from the rear diff. Full on track racing would require a diff radiator, but the odd track day should be no problem with the whiteline watts link attached. I think you might blow the budget trying to squeeze the watts link in, but it would sure be agreat addition!
I don't see the watt's link acting as any kind of substantial heat sink. The finned cover should actually work pretty good considering there will be turbulent airflow in that region.

2011 Mustang GT - 6 Speed, White, Brembo package
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharad View Post
Tubular chrome-moly is stronger than the billet aluminum. Don't get me wrong, UPR makes both tubular chrome-moly and billet LCAs. But the chrome-moly arms are the race quality pieces.
oh okay, thanks. I've heard that the billet is more of a show item compared to the tubular chrome ones but the tubular is the one to get for performance and I wanted a confirmation. I'll be saving my bucks and getting the chrome ones.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LitreRiceEater View Post
Whiteline watts link diff cover I'm pretty sure is predrilled and tapped for possible <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym> cooler f desired. I think that is superior to a finned diff cover but don't quote me a 100%
thanks! I'll check that out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie Anderson View Post
domesticpower,just the fact the watts link is attached to the diff cover should wick quit a bit of heat away from the rear diff. Full on track racing would require a diff radiator, but the odd track day should be no problem with the whiteline watts link attached. I think you might blow the budget trying to squeeze the watts link in, but it would sure be agreat addition!
my biggest worry haha. I've been hearing about how much of a difference a watt's link makes and I would like to try it out. right now, I plan on getting the catch can, LCA's, OEM Torsen and springs. that should put me towards the top end of my budget with shipping. Hopefully I can keep it that way lol
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oh okay, thanks. I've heard that the billet is more of a show item compared to the tubular chrome ones but the tubular is the one to get for performance and I wanted a confirmation. I'll be saving my bucks and getting the chrome ones.
No problem. Sounds like you're on the right track!


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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Well, here's the final list:


- Oil Catch Can (UPR or Steeda)
- Watt's Link (Fays2 from Strano Parts)
- OEM Torsen Diff (from Steeda or Late Model)
- Steeda Boss Springs (well, Steeda lol)
- LCA (UPR or Steeda)


Is there any vendor sale coming up? I know about a few forum member discounts but I'm being greedy lol. I'm expecting the tax refund check this week but I won't be driving it for probably another month so if there's a sale in a week or two, I'll wait.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharad View Post
No problem. Sounds like you're on the right track!
Hi. For some strange reason (its a long story) i have both UPR billet and tubular LCAs in my garage. I was trying to decide which one to install. So, assuming that I have both of your products, which one would you rather install? Are tubular arms supposed to give a better rear end stability than billet aluminum? or is it simply a matter of how much hp you can put to the ground.. ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by by9468840 View Post
Hi. For some strange reason (its a long story) i have both UPR billet and tubular LCAs in my garage. I was trying to decide which one to install. So, assuming that I have both of your products, which one would you rather install? Are tubular arms supposed to give a better rear end stability than billet aluminum? or is it simply a matter of how much hp you can put to the ground.. ?
The tubular chrome-moly arms are stronger, but we have a customer running 8-second quarter mile times on our UPR billet aluminum LCAs, so they can obviously handle a lot of power.


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