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2011-2014 Mustang GT Tech Forum

2011-2014 Talk | 2011-2014 GT | 2011-2014 V6 | 2005-2010 Talk | 2005-2010 GT | 2005-2010 V6 | Shelby GT500 | Mustang Tech 
 

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Unread 08-22-2013   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linelock View Post
Have you looked into the Ford Racing Cobra-Jet intake? People seem to be getting decent gains over the Boss intake. It wont be cheap as you will also need to replace your TB and CAI. I agree on valve job/porting is also an option. Also the Cobra-Jet ignition pulse ring to get a little more rpm. I think you are already beyond any easy or cheap hp or tq gains.
Agree with linelock. even though you already have the boss and a larger than stock TB, the cobra jet intake and oval throttle body will make much more power 7tq and 20hp minimum.

Heads would be ideal if they were cheap, I did boss heads and cj cams and got 45 hp out of it w/ stock bottom end - it pulls hard to 7800 but i'm to scared to go higher.. was making more power w rpm it was not flattening out.

w the larger duration stage 2 cams you have, a big set of MMR, JPC, or Livernois stage 3 heads with bigger valves would really work well with the cj intake.

the deep sump ford racing oil pan is supposed to unlock HP but I have not seen the numbers yet. E85 on our NA cars - good for small gains.

light weight clutch and flywheel would help with acceleration between shifts. light weight wheels and ds help also. NA can only get you so far though.. if you want to race the Mexican freeways you have to have FI - either a big ass s/c or turbo setup, with an all new short block and mmr aluminum intake to tolerate 28lbs of boost, beefed up axles and welded tubes, new fuel system and injectors.. then you have 1200hp to play with. more than that you need the MMR 5.2 block (or the L&M block) 30+lbs of boost..
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Unread 08-22-2013   #17 (permalink)
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Hello,

I would say based on your mod list you have just about every bolt on for an NA. It seems your doing Boss Type mods but you don't have the engine for it. I can see that engine not lasting especially if your reving at or over 7500 rpms.

I would either start saving for a Boss Engine to do a swap.

Put the stock Intake Manifold on and go with some 3:73's as well as go for weight reduction. BMR K Member, Lower Radiator Support w Brace, Tubular A Arms, Lithium Battey, Back Seat Delete remove the rear seat belts. You would shave a bit over 100 lbs with that most of it being off the front of the car + 18 enkei's are around 20 lbs if your stock 20's are sitting at 30 lbs that 40 lbs of weight there to.
2 piece brake rotors from Full Tilt Boogie front and rear will shave 15lbs total off the wheels.

That's a lot of rotational weight there.

You do those mods and you'll be close to shaving your own body weight off the car you would certainly feel that.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #18 (permalink)
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Thank you for your answers. The answer from twistedneck and SD_Stang. By the way my enkei weight 25 lbs each without the tire. So it's not a big deal but I understand that every lbs count at that point.

I might check into ported and polished heads or Boss heads.

I'm newbie in that department, what should I look for. I have check livernois webstore but I don't know I need to be educated on the subject.

Steeda Canada told me that ported and polished would only give me a 20 hp increase.

I was planning a swap of clutch and flywheel but said that if my clutch doesn't do slippage, I can keep my stock clutch.

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction and if you have more to add on heads, crankshaft or clutch, go add. Always appreciated.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #19 (permalink)
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I would say go the Boss Engine route if your thinking about doing internals add your bolts on to it do some weight reduction and call it a day. I would add the tranny cooler and oil cooler at that time. it will be a 0 mile Forged 444 horse engine then add your bolt ons and a tune.

You would basicallly have a Boss with full bolt ons that weights about 3450 without driver(maybe less). That will beat a few FI cars then if you want to get serious after that put a Kenne Bell on it.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #20 (permalink)
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I might go with boss heads and crankshaft and boss springs. I won't get a brand new motor when the one I have is only 10 000 miles old. Tranny cooler and oïl cooler is on the list.

Might check cnc head already done also from Livernois or other makers.

I think that I'm starting to get to the end of the easy hp gains like you said.

Sad but I think it's going to cost an arm and leg.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #21 (permalink)
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Question OP what are your goals with the car?
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Unread 08-22-2013   #22 (permalink)
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Goals are to get a good N/A setup that is for street and maybe in the future some autocross. Maybe.

But my ultimate goal is to get my car to be able to handle a Porsche 911 or something along those lines.

It's not a drag car and it's not a daily driven car. It's for the week-end and around the the back-end roads and twisties.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #23 (permalink)
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OOK jw good luck man.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #24 (permalink)
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NA is always diminishing returns on $$.. but the way it has instant throttle response and full engine braking, no FI can match that. Mustangs are not supercars but get it super light weight with a good NA power plant and it will feel like a race car I know mine does. Boss crank is = to our crank- you don't need to change. its got more weights for the heavier boss rods and pistons. those are not needed unless you want to spin over 7500 like SD_Stang said.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #25 (permalink)
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So what I can do is go with boss heads, pistons, springs and valves?

It would be ok? And the supporting mods of course like a bigger radiator, oïl cooler and other parts.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #26 (permalink)
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In all honesty, for what you want to get results-wise, I wouldn't do heads, another cam swap, etc. Build a forged bottom end and put on a blower. All the power you want, stock driveability and reliability, and the power will be in the range you can make use of and enjoy it.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarties View Post
But my ultimate goal is to get my car to be able to handle a Porsche 911 or something along those lines.

Wattslink. And when you're setting up your suspension, focus on communication and confidence, not all out numbers and how many G's you can produce.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #28 (permalink)
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Wattslink. And when you're setting up your suspension, focus on communication and confidence, not all out numbers and how many G's you can produce.

Bingo! Numbers are for bench racing and focusing on them causes you to miss the details that make the difference in winning and losing. Power is nothing without control.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #29 (permalink)
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Watts link is something that I have look into but not sure if it would made a difference.

I love Steeda parts and got a bunch of them on my car but the watts links seems a big piece compared to Whiteline watts link.

I think getting performance close to a Porsche 911 is something that can be done.
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Unread 08-23-2013   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarties View Post
Watts link is something that I have look into but not sure if it would made a difference.

I love Steeda parts and got a bunch of them on my car but the watts links seems a big piece compared to Whiteline watts link.

I think getting performance close to a Porsche 911 is something that can be done.
Do it. You WILL be able to tell the difference.
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