Doing rear brakes, any guides out there? - Ford Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014 Thread Starter
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Doing rear brakes, any guides out there?

Hey guys,

I am doing all 4 rotors and pads today. Any guides on rears? I have done the fronts once before!

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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Hey guys,

I am doing all 4 rotors and pads today. Any guides on rears? I have done the fronts once before!

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
Rear brakes are simple - easier than front. Just get a cheap rear caliper piston tool to make things easier. Like this:



or this:



Both can be had at Harbor freight for $5 or so.

Also, make sure to get this too:



Best there is. Just pat a light dab on your brake pad mounting points and rattle clips and a good dab on caliper slides.

2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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Never cared for the cube. That other tool only compresses pistons, it won't rotate the piston for the rears.

I use this for the rear calipers:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=298604_0_0_

I bought the set that I have but I know some parts stores (OReillys in my area) will rent it to you then refund the full price after it's returned.

I believe the wrenches you need are 15 mm and 13 mm (maybe 12?).

Other than that the rears are super easy and no guide is really needed.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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I have been told that the cube will not fit our cars. I have a set similar to Blazin72's. You have to be able to screw the rear pistons back in.


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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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I bought one of the cubes from a parts store to use once. It was supposed to be 3/8" drive but the extension wouldn't fit. I tossed it in the garbage then rented the real deal. It's a much better tool. I now own one.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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The cube SUCKS!!!

AST 4150's w/Hyperco800F/250R springs, Torsen T2R, Vorshlag Caster/Camber Plates, Forgestar 18x11 F14's w/ 315/30/18 Hoosier A6's, front and rear....and a whole lot of other stuff.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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Rear Brakes

The rear brakes are simple. If you are only doing them for maintenance, I would rent the rear brake kits from auto zone instead of buying a kit. It's free to rent, just bring it back to them. The only bit of guidance I can fill you on that may be overlooked is the pin alignment. You will need to screw the rear calipers in, but ensure the pins you are twisting are at the 12 o'clock position. Rear caliper bolts are torqued to about 24in pounds and is a 13MM if I remember correctly.


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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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Often times the rear rotors are stuck (rusted) to the axle. There is a great Youtube video showing how to make a simple tool with a bolt and a few nuts and washers that easily pushes it off.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014
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He won't need to worry about the rotor beingfrozen on if he's just doing a pad swap, instead of a full brake job with turned or replaced rotors.

When they're rusted in place, my weapon of choice at work is a large plastic-headed deadblow hammer. Just hit it hard on opposing sides working it back and forth. If you install one lugnut back on a few turns loose, you can really swing hard and you know the rotor won't fly off and crash to the floor.

If you'rereplacing rotors and the old ones are frozen, just verify the parts store gave you the right rotors, and knock them off with a plain old steel sledge.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65sohc View Post
Often times the rear rotors are stuck (rusted) to the axle. There is a great Youtube video showing how to make a simple tool with a bolt and a few nuts and washers that easily pushes it off.
I always coat the hub with C-5A anti seize wherever it contacts the rotor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65sohc View Post
Often times the rear rotors are stuck (rusted) to the axle. There is a great Youtube video showing how to make a simple tool with a bolt and a few nuts and washers that easily pushes it off.
My tool is called a "foot"

AST 4150's w/Hyperco800F/250R springs, Torsen T2R, Vorshlag Caster/Camber Plates, Forgestar 18x11 F14's w/ 315/30/18 Hoosier A6's, front and rear....and a whole lot of other stuff.

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This thread is turning into a pretty good how-to on its own
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntoy View Post

If you'rereplacing rotors and the old ones are frozen, just verify the parts store gave you the right rotors, and knock them off with a plain old steel sledge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72 View Post
I always coat the hub with C-5A anti seize wherever it contacts the rotor
Both these.

I personally use a flat face 3lb steel hammer to give the rotor a 'what for'. Ive never really had a too badly rusted rotor though. However, I did once do battle with the rear drums on my 96 Tacoma - even after they had been fully adjusted out, they still had a death grip on the hub which necessitated a long period of 'persuasion' from my hammer.

Alot of Asian rotors have holes that you can thread a M8x1.25 bolt in to and pop the rotor or drum off. Our cars dont, so if you ecounter a rusted one, hammer away!

2011 Mustang GT M6 3.31s

Matt HONEYCUTT Tune, Lethal Off-Road X, GT500 axlebacks, J&M LCAs, UPR UCA, Whiteline LCA relocation brackets, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Koni STR.T shocks/struts, GT500 strut mounts, SR Strut Tower Brace

Best 1/4 E/T (05/18/14 MIR - no tune, X-pipe, or UCA): 12.920 @ 109.40 mph (2.059 60ft)
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A friend and I spent three hours trying to remove a rear rotor from his 2006 F-150. It ended up taking an acetylene torch and a slide hammer to remove it.
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As someone once told me, buy once, cry once. This tool has been amazing but I change rear pads about twice a month.

http://m.harborfreight.com/disc-brak...not%20provided

Helps on loads of other cars too. Don't use the cube. It's miserable.

Sometimes I pop the cap off to make it a little easier to compress everything.


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